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IOR 9-36×44 Compact Spyder Illuminated Xtreme X1 Tactical


force64

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Andy , I haven't used this model but I do feel the IOR optics are right up there with the very best and better than some scopes twice the price .

 

80 moa of travel at 1/8th adjustment using 36x ..... There is not much to better that travel and enough to get a house brick to 1000 yards !

 

if you do get one PM me with your thoughts please

 

OSOK

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I have one of these with 1/4 moa click and can confirm it is 25 moa elevation per turn and 20 moa windage per turn.

 

Not heavy by IOR standards and I use mine for FTR. Has an excellent zero stop which is internal to the turret and does not obscure the vernier scale when set.

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GeorgeB , Do they use the same size turret in 1/8th adjustment and just squash up the divisons i wonder ?

 

The newer NXS's are in both 1/8th & 1/4 moa using the same size turret but you only get 10 moa per turn on the 1/8th option .

 

I'm guessing IOR must do the same , worth asking the question if anyone fancied 1/8th .

 

OSOK

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GeorgeB , Have you tested the adjustment at the two extremes on paper by any chance ? This would be my only concern with IOR and the most important item on a scope for my needs .

 

OSOK

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George , The older IOR's ( 2007 ish ) were reported to have an issue with the far ends of travel on both windage & elevation in that the scope was telling you it had wound on a given moa but the distance travelled by the reticule was something else . At the time it was 'due to the method of movement that IOR used ' whatever that meant ?

Most people may have been unaware of this as most scopes never see the far ends of travel .

I'm keen to try one but just have that niggle in the back of my mind .

 

Greg .

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OK, I have heard of that issue with older scope designs, especially those with 1" tubes where there is insufficient clearance for the erector tube to track accurately at the far ends of travel.

 

I wouldn't have thought that problem would arise in a scope with a 35mm tube, but I will run some tests on all my IORs when I get the opportunity.

 

GeorgeB

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I have this scope and use it at Bisley out to 1000 yards, so about 40MOA elevation on my 308, where it tracks perfectly.

The optics are great, much better than Vortex and Nightforce that I've had, and close to my Swarovski. However, the illumination is hopeless as is the manual.

Despite it, I have managed to figure out how to zero the turrets, but haven't got a clue how to set the zero stop!

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I have this scope and use it at Bisley out to 1000 yards, so about 40MOA elevation on my 308, where it tracks perfectly.

The optics are great, much better than Vortex and Nightforce that I've had, and close to my Swarovski. However, the illumination is hopeless as is the manual.

Despite it, I have managed to figure out how to zero the turrets, but haven't got a clue how to set the zero stop!

Hi, see here re turrets

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9vJZOdYkE4

 

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The video is only applicable to the IOR scopes which have uncapped tactical-style turrets. The 9-36x44 turrets have dust caps and are much more compact. The method of setting the zero stop is entirely different to the method used with the uncapped turrets, involving the adjustment of 4 set screws and 2 cap screws! However the adjustment is entirely internal and the zero stop can be set without the turret cap obscuring the "number of turns" scale.

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The illumination only seems to be visible in daylight at the top end of the settings even then seems quite faint. There's a very obvious red tinge to the sight picture which is pretty nasty. Maybe it is designed to work well for NV, in which case it is a silly idea on a high mag target scope.

George, could you briefly explain how to set the zero stop? I realise the radial screws are just set screws which bite into the longer vertical set screws but haven't figured how they act as a zero stop.

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After zeroing at whatever distance (I normally zero at 100 yards), loosen the 2 cap screws on the elevation drum, turn the ring clockwise to the zero mark then retighten the screws. Repeat for the windage drum.

 

Then set the elevation zero stop by slackening the 2 radial set screws and gently screwing down the 2 vertical set screws until resistance is felt. Check the setting by winding the elevation drum up then down again, it should stop at the zero mark. Adjust if necessary. Retighten the radial set screws and the job's done.

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After zeroing at whatever distance (I normally zero at 100 yards), loosen the 2 cap screws on the elevation drum, turn the ring clockwise to the zero mark then retighten the screws. Repeat for the windage drum.

 

Then set the elevation zero stop by slackening the 2 radial set screws and gently screwing down the 2 vertical set screws until resistance is felt. Check the setting by winding the elevation drum up then down again, it should stop at the zero mark. Adjust if necessary. Retighten the radial set screws and the job's done.

Of course, it seems so obvious now! Thank you very much for taking the time to explain.

 

The the OP: IOR scopes do represent amazing value for money. At my club shoot yesterday, there was my Spyder, a Recon and a Crusader and all were generating a lot of interest. The latter two are FFP with Mil based reticles so not quite my cuppa, but still amazing bits of kit. A buddy is seriously considering the Terminator too.

I have had NF NXS and Varminter, Vortex PST and a couple of Sightron S3 LRMOA and the IOR is a noticeable jump up in optical quality. Tracking has been faultless, and the front parallax adjustment is very precise with a nice feel.

The illumination is a minor disappointment, but I have never used that feature on any of my scopes so no big loss. There is a version of the Spyder without illumination but I believe that model has the 1/8" MOA clicks which I don't care for.

Lastly, the scope is very heavy, and presumably made of steel. It is therefore not anodised but painted or coated, and that finish is not very durable and scratches quite easily.

This has been my first IOR and it certainly won't be my last.

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I had an IOR and was one of the guys peering through guesty and others IOR's on Sunday. If I ever buy another big rifle it will be topped off with an IOR. I own a pm2 and I feel it's better than the IOR's but it's not over £1000 better! The IOR's have some features which I actually prefer the mid paralax focus is lovely and is very snappy, it's either crystal clear or its out of focus, the Pm is a lot more forgiving than that. I prefer the clicks on my pm but like the mag range of the IOR. Honestly if anyone is thinking about an IOR then they won't be disappointed!

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