223 SUBS

[shrek]

Rite, a little query, and i dont want any of the "just buy a 22 rimfire and shoot it" or "223 subs are a waste of time and money" either,simple question, has anyone ever tried loading 223 subs.

 

I have found some stuff from the US about it, so was wondering if anyone over here has tried it?

 

I know ballistically it will be crap and that its probably no different from a 22RF, BUT if its possible i have one rifle which will legally take roe deer (in scotland) but then if i use subs, be able shoot vermin quietly if i wanted to?

 

After far too long buckraking to much silage into a pit that isnt big enough (needed to put the becons on to warn low flighing planes ) your opinions would be appreciated

[Alycidon]

I know the Tornado's/Hawk/Tucanos can be a bit low but you must have had a lot more rain up there than we have down here by the sound of all that silage, until this week things have been bad here grasswise.

 

I have also seen the threads but personally I would not bother, the 223 projectile will not expand reliably at such low velocity and your maximum range will only be about 75 yards, I feel a lead bullet from a .22LR would do a better job.

 

None the less please keep us informed as to how you get on.

 

A

[baldie]

Not to be entered into lightly. It involved fast, pistol type powders etc, and can be very dangerous indeed. You are basically using tiny amounts of fast powder, and the risk of detonation, if you get it wrong....is very real. Dont trust anyone else recipe,s off the web. You MUST use manufacturers data for subsonic loads.

personally i would leave well alone.....i take you still have all your fingers ?

[ajw]

Oh dear mr shrek!!!

 

I started with this a few weeks ago, but just ran out of time to get a good load. I sadly didnt set up the chrono but I know for a fact they wer'nt quite sub sonic.

 

When I get a chance I'll have another go as I have modified cases for the job.

[shrek]

We're becoming as bad as each other andy!!

 

I take it by modified cases you mean drilled out flash holes to let more initial primer flash into the powder charge??

[Guest varmartin]

Forgetting the fact that you would need two completely different zero`s......I think if you did venture into the subsonic zone you would get a headache trying to sort out a good load ....or a severe headache if detonation were to occur.....

 

I think `onehole`has worked up a reduced power load for a .222 ....not sure about .223 though ...he may have some valuable info if you PM`ed him ... !

[Guest Tiff]

We're becoming as bad as each other andy!!

 

I take it by modified cases you mean drilled out flash holes to let more initial primer flash into the powder charge??

 

I had some modified cases with a greatly reduced internal volume. They worked well for subsonic loads, but unfortunately they are long since gone, along with the load data.

 

It is possible to machine a case out of solid brass and then you can tailor the internal volume you require. Time consuming, but I had a play with the idea and seems to work. However I no longer have access to the machinery.

[varminter.223]

I've played around with this a few times but for safety reasons if I were you I wouldnt enter into this lightly.This recipe worked in my rifle.

 

As long as you follow a few simple rules you should be OK. I used military brass as this has a slightly reduced internal case volume compared with say Winchester or R.P brass which is a good thing. Primer holes were drilled out to 3.5mm if memory serves to prevent/limit the amount of flash over. Magnum primers are used in preference to normal small rifle primers. This is so that you get a bigger spark and so preventing/limiting flash over. Baldie is right about the fast powder. It needs to be a pistol or shotgun powder. I used Hodgon Clays but Titewad is supposed to work really well too! Ideally you need a REALLY bulky powder, something that will give you about 30-40% case capacity (the more case capacity the better!!). I ensured the powder was at the base of the case before loading into the rifle.

 

As for bullet choice well its upto you really. Having tried 40's, 55's, 69's and 75's I would stick to the lighter bullets (flatter trajectory and greater distance).The important point is that the bullets NEED TO BE LUBED. You can either grease them or use moly or WS2 coated bullets. Make sure you coat the barrel first. I used WS2 coated bullets.

 

For 40 grain heads using Clays powder I think I was using about 2.5 gn of powder and these were running about 1000 fps.

If you go with a heavier bullet you need to increase your powder charge. For 75gn heads I think I was using about 5.6gn powder. So the increments are quite small.

 

You'll know when you go transonic or sonic.

 

Always make sure the barrel is clear after each shot!

 

Accuracy is similar to .22 subs. The lowdest noise is the hammer strike!

 

Have fun and be safe!