Viht reloading guide

[eric]

Hi all, As anyone noticed that the latest Viht guide as upped the quantity of powder used. for reloading 243 Winchester 70grain N160 from 46.1 start. 51.2 max in the second guide book to 49.1start 52.5 max. That seems a big jump of 3 grains for a starting load and the same for 87grain N160 from 41.9start 46.6 max to 44.2 start 48.1 max I wonder if this is a printing mistake Eric.

[rabbit fingers]

Viht seem not to be able to make up their minds. I have emailed them about the variations in load data (up and down) but have never had a reply. some of their data has some very hot loads as max( I've had pressure signs 2 gr below max in 308) others are very tame. Trick is knowing which is which. As always start low and work up. Great powder though.

[eric]

Viht seem not to be able to make up their minds. I have emailed them about the variations in load data (up and down) but have never had a reply. some of their data has some very hot loads as max( I've had pressure signs 2 gr below max in 308) others are very tame. Trick is knowing which is which. As always start low and work up. Great powder though.

 

 

Hi rabbit fingers. theres not much hope of me getting a reply then. I emailed Viht today. Eric.

[rabbit fingers]

If you do get one I'd be interested in the reply.

[stag1933]

Hi .

46gr Viht. N160 , 87gr V.Max , Fed. GM210 primer , Lapua Brass .

Sako HB. .243 rifle , model 75 .

 

My Viht guide states Max. charge of N160 as 46.3gr. with 80gr bullet and 45.4gr. with 90gr bullet .

 

Different rifles often show different results wth identical loadings .

It is a matter of working within safe parameters of your own weapon .

 

HWH .

 

[eric]

Hi stag1933. I was using 43gr Viht N160 -87gr V max. cci standard primer and also cci br primer Lapua brass to see which one gave the best group . Both the same as near as damn it. This was in a Sako 243 model 75 with pez mod. I was thinking that when a company print a reloading guide that they might at least be consistent . ( one guide book with another ) Num 2 states start load 42.0 gr 46.2 Max and the latest edition says start load 44.2 - 48.1 max. That could cause a bit of confusion for some one just starting out on the reloading path. What,s your col by the way? mine is just touching the lands. I had two good groups ie clover leaf. but have been unable to repeat either one again for some reason. all the best Eric.

[stag1933]

Hi Eric .

Aye , it can be bloody frustrating .

I tend to start low and work up , it seems safer to me !

The group in the upper picture was shot and loaded by Jacko , the guy from whom I bought the Sako when he emmigrated . [ His AOL was 3.18 I think . ]

I had problems getting more 87gr bullets so I went on to the 75gr V.Max. instead and found they shot tight groups also , then `BALDI ` on this site kindly sent me some 68gr Bergers to try .

By now the N160 powder supply had dried up so I got some N140 instead .

This proved to be the ultimate combination , 40.5gr of N140 , Fed. GM210 primer , RP brass , and the 68gr Berger bullet .

Similar groups are shot with the 75gr V.Max. but print one-and-a-half inches to the left of the group below .

The Bergers are excellent on Foxes but do not expand very well on Corvids unlike the 75gr V.Max. which spread their evil carcases about a bit .

 

HWH .

[Redfox]

All powder manufacturers update their manuals from time to time, based on the powder they are manufacturing today. Powder varies from batch to batch, never mind year to year and is only designated as xxx after batch testing. They also change formulations, either to correct some slight problem or based on the available supply of raw materials which also vary as well.

You should use the manual that is current at the time you bought the powder, give or take a month or two and stick to those loads until its used up. If you buy a new tub you can see the date of manufacture on it, use the manual for that year.

Nothing is for ever, the original h380 and h4831 were packaged ex ww2 surplus powder, it is nothing like the powder that was subsequently made by Hodgdon when the surplus ran out, they just aimed for the same burn rate and energy levels ( quite successfully ) , the same applies to all powder makers/suppliers from year to year.

Redfox

 

PS. I always write on a new tub the date I bought it to help keep track etc.

[eric]

Hi Eric .

Aye , it can be bloody frustrating .

I tend to start low and work up , it seems safer to me !

The group in the upper picture was shot and loaded by Jacko , the guy from whom I bought the Sako when he emmigrated . [ His AOL was 3.18 I think . ]

I had problems getting more 87gr bullets so I went on to the 75gr V.Max. instead and found they shot tight groups also , then `BALDI ` on this site kindly sent me some 68gr Bergers to try .

By now the N160 powder supply had dried up so I got some N140 instead .

This proved to be the ultimate combination , 40.5gr of N140 , Fed. GM210 primer , RP brass , and the 68gr Berger bullet .

Similar groups are shot with the 75gr V.Max. but print one-and-a-half inches to the left of the group below .

The Bergers are excellent on Foxes but do not expand very well on Corvids unlike the 75gr V.Max. which spread their evil carcases about a bit .

 

HWH .

 

Hi. HWH> Thanks for the reply Thats a great group. Only done that once and that was 4years ago still will keep on trying. all the best Eric.

[eric]

All powder manufacturers update their manuals from time to time, based on the powder they are manufacturing today. Powder varies from batch to batch, never mind year to year and is only designated as xxx after batch testing. They also change formulations, either to correct some slight problem or based on the available supply of raw materials which also vary as well.

You should use the manual that is current at the time you bought the powder, give or take a month or two and stick to those loads until its used up. If you buy a new tub you can see the date of manufacture on it, use the manual for that year.

Nothing is for ever, the original h380 and h4831 were packaged ex ww2 surplus powder, it is nothing like the powder that was subsequently made by Hodgdon when the surplus ran out, they just aimed for the same burn rate and energy levels ( quite successfully ) , the same applies to all powder makers/suppliers from year to year.

Redfox

 

PS. I always write on a new tub the date I bought it to help keep track etc.

 

 

Hi Redfox Thanks for the reply. I will keep this info in mind all the best Eric.

[sikastag]

Some great groups there folks, my favourite powders are still Re 22 and Re 15, however. P.S I loved Re12 but the silly people stopped making it!

[Redfox]

Hope it helps Eric, my memory is definitely not as good now, but I can still find HWHs front door to calll in for a cuppa when I pass that way.

I like the reloader powders myself, I have 22 for the 300WM and 19 for some 270 loads and 15 for some 243 varminting loads. It is still a couple of bob cheaper per tub as well than the others.

Redfox

[sikastag]

Hope it helps Eric, my memory is definitely not as good now, but I can still find HWHs front door to calll in for a cuppa when I pass that way.

I like the reloader powders myself, I have 22 for the 300WM and 19 for some 270 loads and 15 for some 243 varminting loads. It is still a couple of bob cheaper per tub as well than the others.

Redfox

Some good choices there!