Advice needed on case hardening.

[Jamie]

Hi folks,

This post is kind of following on from my last regarding some neck sizing issues I had.

Would work hardened brass be hard to neck-size, without lube?

I ask this, as I'm beginning to think a small batch of brass I had, had been used more like 5 times, as apposed to the 2 I initially thought. Maybe the cases were work hardened, hence the neck sizing being so tuff without lube?

I have some new un-fired Rem .223 brass that has been full length sized, and very lightly neck-turned.

Out of curiosity I neck sized the brass. It necked sized very easily, without any lube at all.

Any constructive comments would be appreciated.

Cheers

Jamie

 

[Swamp Donkey]

Yep. The harder the brass, the more effort needed to work it.

 

Pete

[jcampbellsmith]

If you are unsure of the vintage of the brass, anneal it. Regards JCS

[Jamie]

Cheers both, it did seem the most logical, but being a "newbie" it's best to ask!

When I've bought a bag of new 100 brass, I usually split it and wear-out the first 50 then start again with the other 50...

However, I think I may have not have kept up with my usage count correctly, ending in me having some brass that had been used a few more times than some of the others. Which in turn caused me some major problems in neck sizing around 5-10 pieces of brass, which I binned to be on the safe side....

I think i'll anneal the whole batch of "older" brass just to put it all back on an even keel, and go from there.

Cheers

Jamie

[Swamp Donkey]

If your going to go through the time, effort and set up, do them all together.

 

Pete

[Jamie]

If your going to go through the time, effort and set up, do them all together.

 

Pete

Pete, Should I anneal the new un-used brass then?

Although it is new unused brass, it doesn't look annealed, Will annealing new un-annealed brass make a difference short term? As in 1-4 reloading prior to annealing?

Cheers

Jamie

[Swamp Donkey]

It won't harm it, unless you get it too hot. And at least your neck tensions will be on a level playing field. Though, I think I'd leave the new stuff to be honest

[Jamie]

It won't harm it, unless you get it too hot. And at least your neck tensions will be on a level playing field. Though, I think I'd leave the new stuff to be honest

That leaves me in a bit of a quandary....

If I annealed the new and old brass together, would I get consistent neck tension, (as best as possible considering brand) from the annealed point, from new to old brass, regardless of the age of the brass? Notwithstanding other problems associated with the older brass....

Thanks

Jamie

[oaken]

I suggest sending the used brass to spud to do properly if unsure of what you are doing.

It's very easy to overcook your brass unless you have practiced on some old stuff first, or used temp indicator or better, get someone to show you how.

I have my way of doing it that others may frown upon but it works for me, but I have ruined a fair few as part of the learning process.

Work hardened brass is better than f***ed brass.

Rup

[Jamie]

I suggest sending the used brass to spud to do properly if unsure of what you are doing.

It's very easy to overcook your brass unless you have practiced on some old stuff first, or used temp indicator or better, get someone to show you how.

I have my way of doing it that others may frown upon but it works for me, but I have ruined a fair few as part of the learning process.

Work hardened brass is better than f***ed brass.

Rup

That's a fair point Rup.

I'm a bit like you really. I've had the luxury, (Not sure you can call ppu that) of having quite a few ppu pieces of brass given to me over the last 12 months, so I've kind of got there in a fashion after practice..... Seem to have gotten there ok with the ppu, so I'm hoping all will be well with the Rem. Having said that, it is only Rem brass, and if I f***** it up, it would be an even better reason to invest in a box of Lapua brass earlier than planned!