S & B PM 2 setup

[shooter79]

Just received the above scope with MSR reticule 5-25x56, 0.1 mrad clicks and just had some questions for some current PM2 users. Mount has 6 mils (20MOA) elevation, scope has 0-26 mils elevation. Rifle will be zeroed to 100 yards/meters.

 

Q1) Do i just count all the elevation clicks in order to centralize the reticule cross hair, do i need to do it for the windage turret as well? When finding the central point i believe i just need to release the grub screws and line them up with the zero position? How should i incorporate the 6 mil elevation on the mount, i know it will give me 6 mils more elevation.

Q2) I will zero at 100 Yards but should i zero to 100 Meters as I'm working in mils?

Q3) As the scope is in mils should i stay clear of yards all together?

 

Any theory would be helpful to a newbie PM2 user.

Regards

Carl

[snc_2010]

I have only used a PM2 a couple of times and never had to zero one so I apologise if I have overlooked a particular peculiarity of its knob zero setting system.

Generally speaking I can see why you might want to centralise the reticle in its adjustment range to maximise chances of being on zero straight away (assuming your rifle, mounts, etc are all dead straight...) but I don't think it's necessary at all. I wouldn't bother centering it and instead use a good zeroing system. Start zeroing at 10m and you're not going to miss any sensibly sized backer. One shot at 10m should get you on paper for one shot at 50m which should get you on paper for however many shots at 100m (or 200m if you decide so) you feel are necessary to confidently determine a mean point of impact (centre of group).

 

I would work 100% in metres. Having had my mind poisoned by the imperial system, I wish I'd been born late enough to never encounter it!

[brown dog]

Generally speaking I can see why you might want to centralise the reticle in its adjustment range to maximise chances of being on zero straight away (assuming your rifle, mounts, etc are all dead straight...) but I don't think it's necessary at all. I wouldn't bother centering it and instead use a good zeroing system. Start zeroing at 10m and you're not going to miss any sensibly sized backer. One shot at 10m should get you on paper for one shot at 50m which should get you on paper for however many shots at 100m (or 200m if you decide so) you feel are necessary to confidently determine a mean point of impact (centre of group).

 

I would work 100% in metres. Having had my mind poisoned by the imperial system, I wish I'd been born late enough to never encounter it!

 

Yup, agree with that: never have another thought about the incline in the mount; it'll affect nothing in the way you zero the rifle.

Just boresight in the normal way and crack on

[ChrisF]

Just be aware of the little SS catch that operates the Yellow 2nd turn indictor ( its inside the knob once you remove it ) , as some times the actual posn of IT effects the amount of E you can get out of the scope .