onehole

Comp shell holders another way to go and no need for over centre positioning.Once you arrive at the correct holder just select it every time then neck size and job done.

Have you tried talking to John the owner of Southpoint Firearms in Callington? he may know someone who might be better suited .Good Luck,,,,,O

Vitavouri 160 is a good choice for bullets in the 85/90 g range and I have used the same load for the 87g Vmax and 90g Berger BT being my go to bullets. The load I worked up to was 43.6/160 with bullets just 5 thou off the lands in each case.These loads were safe in my rifle with no pressure problems and great accuracy.I must point out that according to Vitavouri data this load is approaching max recommended so if using 160 please work up your own as per usual.Using Vit 160 also helps fill the case much better compared to some other powders even in the Vit range.Take care,,,O

Stunning Darrel !! well done and cracking build Alan,,,,when it all comes together eh!!!,,,,,,,,,,,,O

Ok,,,,,,,,,,,,£275 posted,,,,,would like to move swiftly on to another ZD,,,,,,O

I have fitted both the Recknagel and the steel Contessa. The Recknagel is easier to fit and to get perfect alignment to barrel/bore on the dovetails where the Contessa will more than probably require some shimming/smithing to get in correct position. if you don,t do this fitting with the Contessa the rail can pull off centre and rail and scope in turn causing excessive  windage to be used to zero. i presently have the steel Contessa on mine as I didn,t mind the fettling and its one piece steel and just looks a bit better IMO,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,O

Selling my Meopta as described above and in truly excellent condition boxed and  with instructions etc. It has two tiny pin sized marks near where the front and rear rings would usually be and you can just pick them out in the photo. Glass,turrets etc all perfect. I am looking to buy another 6x24 ZD and only reason for selling. Looking for £325 posted.thanks,,,,,O

54 minutes ago, BlueBoy69 said:

I had the option to start a temp job as a gunfitter for work experience, or wait 3 or 4 months, for my main job when I first started working as a contractor to the MOD in instrumentation/photography/radiography field. While working in said temp job I can remember looking at various barrels using borescopes.

Boy was it a wake-up call. Gas-washing, heat-cracking, chrome plating delamination and stripping, ripped off lands due to things coming off projectiles as they were fired. These were big guns, tank and artillery pieces.

I can remember one of the scientists telling me heat-cracking, often combined with chemical attack by the propellant decomposition gases due to the high temperatures and pressure, can result is cracks forming that travel into the main body of the barrel. This can result in barrel failure even though the pressure was never enough to cause a fatigue life failure due to repeated pressurisation, ie firing it.

Fatigue failure is a failure due repeated loading past a material's fatigue limit, below that limit you 'should' be able to cycle it repeatedly for ever. I think Ive seen one example of a hunting rifle blowing up of which this was effect was the probable cause.

 

Scary!! Hope I don,t develop a flinch after reading this,,,,Ha?

5 hours ago, baldie said:

Nothing to do with not using a bore guide Dave. You wouldn't wear two lands away by cleaning, if you did it every day.

The lands have worn/dissapeared, because it highly likely its a Hammer forged barrel. Especially the chrome moly ones, are very hard, but very brittle. pieces simply fly off.

Saw it on a TRG .338 not long back. Lowish round count, and six inch of one land, completely missing.

Thanks Dave,,,,,just took a couple of pics for  interest,,,,this rifle does not get the love and attention of others in the cabinet and i must take more control of my carbon I reckon!!damn thing is accurate though,,,,,,,!,,,,,,,O

PM sent

Les,, the Hawke product info says this scope will parallax from 14 m,,,,,,,,,,,,,? shame to sell cheap?

Nooooo go 1 in 8  do it all twist and throat for 75,s,,,,looking to go down this route when 243 gives up,,,,,,,,,,?

16 hours ago, Chris-NZ said:

You're right about the ignorance aspect but some "detail" you're seeing is so microscopic, it's irrelevant, esp in barrel a good half way through their life. Some people will be tempted to take extreme measures like JBs every time to get a "perfect" clean.

Your right no need to get too alarmed I,ve looked at all my barrels now and all have some copper and carbon in there after my cleaning regime but they are all smooth on the patch and rod and shoot extremely well and would not be taking on any more aggressive measures. Throat areas were interesting and all except my 243 showed pretty crisp  well defined concentric tapering to the lands without any cracking I could see so far.Oldest barrel was 12 twist 6BR Kreiger with around 12-1300 rounds and never shot in any hurry. The 243 however had two lands being eaten away before the others and easy to see firecracking on every land.This barrel[non stainless] is on a Sabatti varmint rifle with some 6/700 rounds down it and i do admit to running it a bit warm on the range occasionally.It shoots very well though and again cant feel anything nasty whilst cleaning . Unusually for me but must admit to not using a bore guide on this rifle and probably the reason for two lands wearing so best I get something to fit asap!! Apart from bore scoping this little tool will be sure to have other uses in the workshop I expect.

 Just received mine today only took a week or so,,,,brilliant device and all for the price of a box of bullets.

I will take the 5 shot please,,,,,,,,,,,please advise payment details  thanks,,,O

Looks like some heavy scuffing on parallax knob what happened?................

Wow,! not seen this before,,,,thanks,,,,so I rest my case .. My Annie barrels defo opened up and accuracy decreased. When i say decreased it would still shoot inside 1 1/4/1/2 at 60 yards with most ammo and match ammo a little tighter but no way good enough and  a fair representation for the ammo that was used . Do not wish to be rude but some would probably think this sort of grouping is ok and fit for purpose ,,,ok I can accept that for those that can live with it ,,,I cant. Knowing this problem does exist,s I can get round it and benefit from the much improved grouping or rather I should say retaining accuracy the barrel was originally blessed with. For some this may raise many questions about threading implications,,,whose barrels may be affected in this way or perhaps not.It might not affect barrels that are made/formed by different methods,,,cut,cold hammer forged,,buttoned etc etc,,,dunno? My centerfire rifles have heavy profiles, cut rifling and are all threaded and fitted by well respected smithys on here that shoot silly tight groups and would not dare or need to bring in any questioning regarding their performance ,,,,its just my experience with the rimfire got my attention,,,,,,,,,,,,thanks for some comments guys perhaps its best left as interesting????

Thanks for coming on Dave,,,,,,,,,,,,,I went with 5/8x18 Dave as Lathe is basically imperial and although all the gears are in a box  to convert to metric guess I took the easy option ,,,however thought this would be chunky enough not to give the metal reason to breathe? Dave the pellet test was done several times and felt in good contact all the way up to the cut and as i said it fell out on its own from a pellets depth inside. I,m really just trying to get to whats actually happening to the metal as i have seen this quite a few times now. I,m only an amateur and bow to your professional experience but tell me this why do Anschutz back bore there screw cut barrels. I know the Match barrels are choked but not sure about all their sporter barrels?,,,,My 1710 isn,t "sorry pellet test again" but it does grip the pellet uniformly all the way by feel.Dave can you add anymore or anyone else please,,,,,,,,,,,,,,O

I know I joined in a topic or started one some time ago but once again after shortening and screwcutting  my Annie {20mm barrel]  it shot quite poorly with nearly all ammo. I hadn,t checked before going out to try the rifle to see if there was some relaxing of bore dimension at the point of the screw cut but indeed there was!!   A pretty basic test i know but it was plain to feel as i gently pushed a .22 bisley magnum up through and almost as soon as the pellet entered into the screw cut area the pellet loosened and before it had started to exit the pellet actually dropped out of the barrel!! I had noticed this quite a few times when cutting 1/2 unf but on this occasion I cut 5/8x18 and still the bore opened up. I will probably now sweat on a sleeve and screw cut that as i have done before but what a faf!!

Anyone know of ways around this,,,,I know Anschutz back bore their barrels but i don,t feel confident in doing this and to effect a decent crown,,,,,,,,In addition could this happen to CZ Sako Browning etc etc....thanks,,,,O

Anyone know who stocks or has any Lapua subs hollow point?  Think they are no longer produced though?,,,,anyone,,,,,,O

PARD IS NOW SOLD,,,,,,,Thank you.

7 minutes ago, Orka Akinse said:

Interested in the sunshade, where did you get it please?

Custom riflescopes UK sell them.

Selling my recently purchased Pard  008 LRF as I thought I would try some night shooting again but must admit that its not really my scene,,,,,,,I bought this brilliant little unit 0n the 9th of September this year from my local RFD and apart from initial setting up on my rimfire and a couple of sessions with it thats all its done,,,,its perfect and as new basically.There is a useful gadget that will go with it in the form of a sunshade which i modified to take an iris that can help with any glare especially on white target boards for intiial zeroing. Will come with all original bits and bobs papers and box. Huge saving on new I want £625 posted.Thanks for looking,,,,O

You could also check your Ase for having clean threads,,,it may have suffered some burnt powder residue being blown back in its previous application and now causing a stoppage. A stiff close fitting bristle brush may do the job or if particularly hardened crud is in there maybe gently running a tap through will remove it.?..O

2 hours ago, MrDuston said:

Is there a box?

I sent same question via PM,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,reply "no box"