Frederick

Sorry , I have read so much lately I have forgotten what is what lol.

F class TR with a scope . There is FTR and FTR open . The former using .308 /.223 factory , the latter any calibre up to 8mm (I think ) including home loads . There is also TR with 308/762 using aperture sights .

I may shoot TR and FTR , both using 308/762 factory loads that have to be purchased at Bisley before a comp . As you have to use factory loads I thought a particular barrel length and twist rate would be more appropriate . Of course I could be completely wrong 😆

21 minutes ago, Pat Allen said:

Most serious FTR shooters reload their own and use heads 185 to 200 grains. I can’t vouch for different loads at different ranges but I use 185 on not so blustery days and 200’s otherwise. 30 inch barrels with a fast twist (1-9) are needed to get the most out of them though. There are some excellent FTR shooters on this site namely furry bean who was last years European FTR champ and are very helpful. Depends how well you want to shoot and how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go

I thought you could only use factory ammo in FTR ( 308 ) ? Home loading is allowed in the open class .I intend to shoot in FTR using factory 308:ammo .

Sooo , to shoot FTR is there a particular bullet weight suitable for all ranges ? Or do people use different weights for 300 , 600 and 900 . I assume the bullets with the best bc are longer and slimmer and would suit higher twist rate ?

I intend to shoot FTR  , is there a particular barrel length and twist rate that is more suitable for factory ammunition in .308 ?

On 9/10/2020 at 5:35 PM, gazzarM1 said:

PS the picatinny screw holes don’t line up with the ones in the stock

9 minutes ago, Ralpharama said:

I've had a Sabatti Tactical MRR chambered in .300Win Mag for a while now and rate it very highly. The first thing i did was take the stock off, drill two M6 holes in it and fit a short picatinny rail with stainless machine screws and nyloc nuts. I wouldn't want to use wood / self tap  type screws. I use it with a Tier One FTR BiPod which is great.

I am however getting it all fitted in a laminated Form Rifle stock cos I don't like plastic, even though it works well. The laminated stock should be heavier and stiffer. Ironically having the stock fitted will set me back more than the rifle did, but it will look well sexy ☺️

Any problem removing the action or refitting . I know it should be straightforward , just don't like the thought of it on a new rifle lol .

Pm sent

Thanks for the replies 🙂

I will take this please

Pm sent

Ordering a Sabatti Evo Tactical. Intending to shoot at Bisley at all ranges if I can .Maybe an F class open comp , simply for my own enjoyment . I'm a little to ancient to get into it seriously ( famous last words ) 🙂

Firstly , I should mention I'm a beginner when it comes to fullbore . I shoot smallbore on a regular basis . So please bear with me 😀

Am I right in assuming that most shooters in F class use second focal plane ? 

I must admit most of the scopes I can afford seem to offer more FFP than SFP . I can see that FFP could be useful if you simply want to holdover for E/W regardless of the mag . Can't really spend more than 1500.00 on glass . Its  to sit on a 6.5 Creedmoor 🙂

Still for sale ?

1 hour ago, gazzarM1 said:

PS the picatinny screw holes don’t line up with the ones in the stock

I should have mentioned I'm a smallbore shooter 🙂 . I shot fullbore twice at Bisley last year with my club , hence I'm a newbie . So if I ask dopey questions , please bear with me 😀

I assume you removed the action from the stock to fit the picatinny base ? Any problems with removing it or refitting .

Now the important bit ....have you fired it yet lol.

I'm just about to order in 6.5 Creedmoor. There are partly drilled picatinny rail holes on the inside of the forend of the stock according to a video ? That would mean taking the action out and drilling , i must admit I'm not to keen as it's a brand new rifle . Does anyone own a Sabatti Evo ? I could just use a front rest , but like to use a bipod .

I would simply fit a stud , but I'm concerned about hitting one of the existing partly drilled holes .

Any views ?