Frederick

Hi. Has the 1416 the single stage or two stage trigger ?

As above, I bought the scope from OW in August this year 

Has sat on my Anschutz benchrest .22 rifle . I just don't get on with it ☹️

Looking for 750.00 posted and ins.

May consider px for another scope with a mag of x30 plus. Again for benchrest.

It's in perfect condition and still sat on my Anschutz. If you require a photo please pm with your email addy. 🙂

Thanks chaps . Spot on with the kettle. I will take a short ext lead 😀

Booked for one night in September as the Pavilion is fully booked.

My question is very simple 🙂. Does the room contain a 13A socket?

13 hours ago, Twodogs said:

DP - Drill Purpose.

Parts of a weapon that were deemed unfit for use in live firing weapons due to some issue, but serviceable enough to be used in a drill only weapon. The issue is rarely obvious and would have been deemed such many years ago by very experienced examiners with experience, tools and knowledge now lost to us.

Parts deemed such were stamped with the letters DP.

Whilst not plug and play many civilians randomly swap parts paying little regards to the markings, something that would never happen with a military armourer. 

The letter P may also be part of a proof mark, usually in conjunction with the crossed pennants.

Thanks 😀

On 8/13/2022 at 7:29 PM, Twodogs said:

The letter nearest the bolt face, is it a P or a poorly struck D?

If what we can see is the extent of the damage then personally I wouldn’t worry, however it could be an indication of material flaws. The reason I ask is because if the stamp, as enquired about above, us in fact a D it would all tie in nicely to materially damaged part.

If the bolt is a replacement then one must question whether it has been correctly fitted, the bolt head being an intricate part of this.

If you go down the new bolt head route, remember they are not plug and play, apologies if you already know that.

What do the P and D actually refer to ?

On 8/13/2022 at 1:58 PM, Andrew said:

Is this the first time you've had this bolt apart? Order a new bolt head if this one won't function. ~Andrew

I have had the bolt apart several times . Because of the firearms law in the UK , i cannot order another bolthead (in very short supply ). It would have to be a gunsmith and the rifle would probably require re- proofing.

3 hours ago, Popsbengo said:

SMLE bolt heads were allegedly white cast iron,  I think No.4 would be steel, metallurgy had moved on from turn of the century Victorian practice

Steel wouldn't crumble like this seems to have , would it ?

Must admit the damaged bit looks like cast iron .

On 8/11/2022 at 4:43 AM, Andrew said:

Have a couple of dozen Lee's in many configurations and have seen a chip gone out of the threads before. Never caused any issues. Did you find the pieces? has your rifle been refinished?  Wouldn't the chipped area be expected to be bare grey metal? ~Andrew

I haven't found any pieces , probably ground into dust ?

It came from SA , has a replacement bolt .

I thought bolt heads were made of white cast iron ? The broken area is grey coloured , I'm not sure if white cast actually appears greyish or whitish ?

At Century 200yd electronic yesterday. Fired 20 factory PPU 174 and 10 handload using 40g of n140 .

Everything went fine, nothing unusual, another great day shooting.

While cleaning my rifle I spun the bolt head a few turns . It felt gritty so I took it all the way off . It seems a small section of the thread has come away, see photo. 

It was very tight to screw back on so I didn't force it . Instead I gently used a fine needle file to smooth the jagged thread. It screws on now but still dosent feel as smooth as it used to . The striker protrudes .046 ( when in fired position) and the gap between the cocking shoe and bolt body is .053 , about perfect.

Had anyone had a similar experience? 

Thank you guys , really appreciate your help 🙂

I fired a few factory PPU 174 and a few handloads using n140 40g , PPU brass and 174g bullets yesterday .

Five clicks up for factory and 6-7 clicks up for handloads . That's at Bisley 200yards .

Talking to a colleague he uses 41.5g of n140 .

I intend to shoot from 100 to 500 yards . I assume I would have better velocity with 41.5g , which would mean less drop at 500 . Or will 40.0g be ok at 500 ? I have yet to try it 🙂

Weights and stock now sold , subject to the usual .

7 minutes ago, Davesson said:

PM’d

Pm sent

4 hours ago, Redroof said:

Can I take the weights please ?

Thanks

 

PM sent 

Had my Bergara B14 HMR installed , believe it would suit any short action Remington 700.

Perfect condition, hardly used .

It has the long weight at 1lb and two mlok weights at .78lb . So total additional weight 1.78lb. Also has mlok picatinny rail for a bipod 

Stock alone 315.00

Weights alone 75.00

Or complete as shown 350.00 

Includes postage .

The August and November reloading courses at Bisley are fully booked. 

I have joined the que to obtain a place on the next available course whenever that may be . 

I attended a course initially at the Rifleman's in Hambridge . Have been loading for 308 , 6.5CM and recently 303 .

I don't believe we have a club official at CRPC who is qualified to approve members and probably wouldn't want the responsibility anyway .

Therefore the easiest route for me personally is to undergo the NRA course .

On 7/1/2022 at 9:42 PM, Strangely Brown said:

Frederick the vast majority of No.4 foresight blades are often way off centre; I speak as a LERA member of 20 plus years so have seen and adjusted a far few of them.  

I would give it a tweak before tomorrows practice as you really want it sorted for Sundays Methuen...see you there! 😉

Thanks by the way 😀

Sold to Roy W subject to the usual .

I have two 1kg containers of RS52 that was included with some loading equipment I recently purchased . I simply don't use it .

Looking for 60.00 each if anyone is interested . Believe it's dated 2019 .

I will be at Bisley this weekend if that helps .

Opticron ES GA 80 ED spotting scope with a 20-60 40862 HDFT eyepiece. Excellent condition , 225.00 posted . Not original box .

Athlon 10-40x56 with a 30mm tube . Again excellent condition , 200.00 posted . Original box .

Dolphin Trakker bipod ,short leg . Virtually new , little use 115.00 posted .

PayPal or bank transfer.

9 minutes ago, Twodogs said:

The foresight blade is designed to me moved left and right of centre. Whilst not flush might not appear pleasing to the eye it might solve your shooting left dilemma.

Adjust the foresight into the error, rear sight out.

Try getting someone else to shoot it to confirm or eliminate user error.

Have you eliminated bent barrel, over/under turned barrel, damaged front sight, damaged rear sight and very importantly and probably the cause, the bedding?

 

 

I attended a LERA shoot last Sunday the Overlord match . My first detail was not to good . I adjusted the foresight left and the second detail was much better .

Today I shot off a bench on a large sandbag . After a few rounds I adjusted left ( into the error ) , between a quarter and a half turn .

The photo is the result. If i apply pressure to the barrel left and right , there is definitely more movement right before it centres again .

I think you are possibly right , the bedding is probably slightly out . It's not much and if I remember to always aim centre or a smidge right it shouldn't be far off . 

I may give the block another quarter of a turn left . I will test out in the open under daylight conditions first .

I'm at Bisley on the 2nd and 3rd of July , falling plates and Methuen. Just want to give myself a fighting chance 😀

5 minutes ago, Catch-22 said:

There is a foresight tool (glorified thick metal wire with notch cut in it) which loosens the blade, allowing you to shimmy the blade left or right to account for windage. You do it once, set and forget.

I have a tool to adjust the foresight blade block. It's adjusted to the left so that the barrel block and foresight block are flush . If I adjust any further it will look really odd and be noticeably off centre with the guard when aiming .

Sorry it's upside down 🥴 

The rear sight is set at 200 yards ish  

It's an indoor range and the lighting is not that good .

I always seem to shoot slightly left .

I have the front sight blade flush with the block ( .045) .

I'm beginning to think it's my position that's wrong . The forend freeplay seems good.

Or is this about normal (100 yards) .