Twodogs

Regardless of what anybody else believes or finds tuners do make a difference, in my case anyway.

As for effectiveness on centrefire rifles I offer no evidence or opinion.

Both my two .22lr bench rest rifles benefit from rounder groups and less vertical spread when a tuner is correctly set, note I say correctly. The impact of a tuner can be further shown by not setting it up correctly leading to an increase in vertical spread.

If tuners don’t work then the marketing gurus have had a field day, just observe the number of rifles fitted with tuners at any NSRA/WRABF benchrest competition.

I’m afraid that I must somewhat disagree with the statement that most rimfire manufacturers produce very consistent ammunition as this is not my experience. Whilst some rimfire ammunition manufacturers do produce relatively consistent ammunition they also produce less consistent ammunition. In my experience, generally, the more you pay for the ammunition the better the quality.
Consistency is difficult to quantify as we have no parameters on what consistent is and how it’s measured, so at this stage is open to interpretation.

With regards purchasing a rimfire tuner in the Uk there are, or we’re at least when I last looked, several makes available of which none needed any custom manufacture/fitting. Starik for example. Though if one has an unusual barrel profile they may not fit.

The posters tuner looks smart. One possible advantage is it’s fitting behind the muzzle, prevents the tuner getting carboned which in theory could effect its performance.

If the OP would like to send me one to evaluate I would be happy to oblige. PM via this site.

Whatever one believes if it works for you it works. Happy shooting.

No idea of your price ceiling or exactly what you’re after, but for a bit of quality have a look at the Anschutz 1710 or 1761.

Bergers sold, others still available.

See PM 👍

Bit of a clear out 6mm/.243 projectiles
Berger 105 grain VLD Hunting, 100 box opened but complete. £50.
Peregrine Bullets VRG 3, 100 grain, 50, box unopened. £45
Fox Bullets, Classic Hunter, 100 grain, lead free, 50, box unopened. £45.

Inc postage or collect N Glos

Advertised elsewhere.

PM sent

Bump.

Serious offers considered.

 Leupold FX3 6x42 adj obj Hunter, 1" tube, Target dot. Boxed. scope cover. Excellent condition. £300

PM for further details photos. ONO considered. Exc postage.

Delta Optical Titanium 6-24x42 AO. Excellent condition, boxed, bikini lens cover. 

PM for further details photos. ONO considered. Exc postage. £275.

Basically no, as .308/7.62mm and 6.5mm are different calibres/calibre group.

If you want, and can justify of course, a 6.5mm you will need to request that, whereas if you want a .308 you will need to request that.

Alternatively you could request both.

If you can actually get to communicate with someone at your licensing run it past them, probably save you hassle later when they apply their own criteria.

You should only have to specify the calibre not the chambering and then only in metric or imperial. Having said this, as we all well know, each licensing authority makes up its own rules.

I currently have a space on my ticket for a 6.5 mm.

Does this have a no neck turn chamber?

2 hours ago, JockStalk said:

Thanks for the detailed thoughts @Scotch_egg - hope it’s a bit of a distraction to keep the boredom at bay! Heal up and get back at it soon. 
22-284! I can imagine that will have a shortish barrel life. I’ve a 6.5-284 inbound and was thinking that would be hard enough on the barrel. 
Mulling over your views, I think the cost side of things is certainly going to be one factor. Might even be worth having clone setup to another more expensive chambering I’ve got for cheaper practice! 
A quick google and thinking shortening a 22-250 might be a bit boomy. Shorter barrelled treble or 223 might be the option then. Would likely give me options for copper in future too. 
Narrowing it down a bit, at least to start window shopping and depending on what’s about, maybe talking to someone for a build. 
👍👍👍

I’m on the lookout for a 6.5-284 at the mo and have done quite a bit of research around chambering.

Don’t know for what purpose you will be using the rifle so this may be irrelevant.

The chambering has a reputation for being hard on barrels however this seems to be from target shooters who may be firing many rounds, often in quick succession, at any one time. In a stalking/hunting scenario the barrel will rarely get hot enough to do significant damage so round count/barrel life should be significantly higher.

For sale.

100 Hornady Interlock .303 cal, 174 grain. Boxed but opened. £40 exc postage

91 Hornady unfixed brass cases, .303, £90, exc postage.

For sale due to change in direction.

Sight Mark Ultra R-spec series reflex sight - black. Comes with all original bits including sight cover. Boxed. Mounted but little used, as new condition. Ideal for mini rifle disciplines.

Also included, sight raise block.

£150, or sensible offer, exc postage.
 

In my experience.

The amount of movement of any tuner and it’s impact on grouping and POI is all relative to a number of factors such as tuner weight, thread pitch, index marking interval and other factors of individual tuner design. To compare one to another is not a valid comparison.

Not forgetting and much to the annoyance of all .22 shooters the individual rifle and ammunition all add to the difficulties. We just have to work with what works for us on our rifles with the ammunition we have, understanding that this could all change if any individual factor is changed.

In the attached picture you can see the difference to group size and vertical spread  achieved by adjusting my tuner by one marked increment. 5 round groups at 25m.

Whilst running in my Walther KK500 I tried adding a Starik tuner, set at zero, this had the effect of lower the MPI by about 1.5” and almost doubling the group size. Yet to explore as the rifle seems to perform pretty well without a tuner.

1 hour ago, Adamdavi3s said:

My experience is this:

I spent about 5 years fettling my Ruger Precision Rimfire into something which will usually shoot touching groups at 50 yards, if I size and sort my ammo it will shoot one hole groups (for the most part) 

My vudoo came out of the box and put pretty much every round in the same hole at 50y (with Eley and two lots of SK)  and created some 1/2 MOA groups  at 100y, no effort required other than pulling the trigger. 

The weight, build quality and smoothness of the action is something to behold, I always liked my RPRR and CZs but now they feel like toys.

You could use any R700 chassis that you want on the Vudoo and select from any R700 triggers as well. 

I purchased the Vudoo as I had planned to shoot some of the 22 PRL matches this year as well as the main PRL matches and also join the long range rimfire club, but unfortunately plans have changed and I won't be able to travel (hence the sale) so for me its a lot of money to have in the safe for 100y plinking, at the same time if it doesn't sell at the price I want then I have no issue keeping it for the future, its just incredible. 

If you have the cash and just want something that works, then I can highly recommend the vudoo, their customer service is also second to none.

If you're happy with 85% then get the Cz457 / Begara B14 / TicTac BUT if you do have the cash to splash and you don't,  you will always have that nagging feeling 🤣

Just my 2cents!  

These groups are not really me trying very hard either if I am honest! The 10 shots were pretty "rapid fire"

Some fantastic 50 yd groups there, I’d be well chuffed with those as well. Groupings like that are competition winners.

Now something controversial, barrel tuners reduce vertical spread, have you considered one here. May or may not work.

Never seriously considered it. 

Such a combination would certainly achieve its objectives in reducing noise and improving consistency in accuracy, but at what cost?

The tuners I use cost in the region of £300, but they are fitted to competition rifles costing in excess of £1000. Many sporter rifles will cost significantly less so the tuner/mod combination becomes less financially viable. Having said that many people spend more than a rifles cost on optics and other extras such as replacement stocks, so why not a tuner/mod?

Sorry not much help.

Good stuff, are you getting good results with your tuner/mod?

I am really surprised no makes, commercially, a tuner/mod for rimfires. 
 

Picking up on 1066's observations. Whilst shooting indoor at 25 m I have noticed inconsistencies, though small, which I attribute to variations in temperature, so much so that I adjust the tuners to compensate. (All very sad I know).

ES of 20fps is not unusual even for the highest quality match grade ammo, unfortunately we are lumped with it. I have found that the ES of cheaper ammo is even worse. Makes competition shooting incredibly frustrating and the inconsistencies can win or lose a competition. I don't bother to chrono any more as you cant do much about it anyway.

My current batch of R50 has a given m/v of 333m/s, the last batch 328 m/s and R100 341m/s. My rifles prefer the slightly faster R50.

A solution to assisting in accuracy is to use a tuner, generally not much use/help though if you are field shooting and using a moderator. You could try moving a moderator forwards a fraction and see if this makes any difference. A tuner is just a weight that is moved backwards/forwards.

The No4 Mk 2 was designed to fire the following:

The Mark VII loading used a 174 gr (11.28 g) pointed bullet with a flat-base. The .303 British Mark VII cartridge was loaded with 37 gr (2.40 g) of Cordite MDT 5-2 (cordite MD pressed into tubes) and had a muzzle velocity of 2,440 ft/s (744 m/s) and a maximum range of approximately 3,000 yd (2,700 m).

I used to use 174gr (.311) Sierra Match Kings, they seemed to work well enough in all my rifles.

 A lot will depend on the amount of bore wear. If worn many people find cast bullets better (As noted by several above). As with any rifle you may have to experiment to find what your rifle likes.

If loading do not try to work out jump or chase the lands, the Lee Enfield have battle chambers and as such in flight meals are normally required before any bullet reaches the lead/rifling.

Whatever Enjoy

Last of my collection to go.

Lee Enfield Mk V. This is a genuine Mk V not the No 5. All numbers match, all parts correct for type. 1924 model. Bright bore and good condition considering nigh on 100 years old. £4k ono, serious collectors piece.

For pictures or further info pm. Advertised elsewhere. 

DBB6D622-E504-4CD9-8C2C-11C785956AF7.heic 1FAFBA89-7199-482E-9430-1B5561EB2A12.heic B2A448A9-3BED-4BBA-BB8B-35051566ABCA.heic

DP - Drill Purpose.

Parts of a weapon that were deemed unfit for use in live firing weapons due to some issue, but serviceable enough to be used in a drill only weapon. The issue is rarely obvious and would have been deemed such many years ago by very experienced examiners with experience, tools and knowledge now lost to us.

Parts deemed such were stamped with the letters DP.

Whilst not plug and play many civilians randomly swap parts paying little regards to the markings, something that would never happen with a military armourer. 

The letter P may also be part of a proof mark, usually in conjunction with the crossed pennants.

The most common, in use, cause of damage to bolt head threads is due to the incorrect set up of bolt head to bolt body.

When the bolt head is screwed fully onto the bolt, the bolt head lump, should not rotate past the long rib. During the Second World War a wartime allowance was made which allowed the bolt head to overturn by no more than 20 degrees. Any overturn places the recoil stresses on the bolt head thread.

The letter nearest the bolt face, is it a P or a poorly struck D?

If what we can see is the extent of the damage then personally I wouldn’t worry, however it could be an indication of material flaws. The reason I ask is because if the stamp, as enquired about above, us in fact a D it would all tie in nicely to materially damaged part.

If the bolt is a replacement then one must question whether it has been correctly fitted, the bolt head being an intricate part of this.

If you go down the new bolt head route, remember they are not plug and play, apologies if you already know that.