dodgyrog

On 8/28/2020 at 5:24 PM, 17 squirrel said:

Hi Aggy. I swage air gun slugs, but only in .22. The lightest I can make is about 22g depends on the base shape. I also make .177 pellets but not the Diablo/waisted type Or slugs, they are more like a hand gun shape of lead bullet. I think air guns in general ( Barrel length, twist and especially speed of bullet) Are closer to hand guns than riffles. Air guns are now light years ahead of my old Sharp innova, BSA Airsporter. If you want PM me about swaging. 

I agree' I have two Corbin swaging presses and this looks a lot like mine. Where did you get the dies from?

The loss of a dog is heart rending.

Getting a pup to replace it feels disloyal somehow.

I lost one of my two dogs last year at 18 years age and I must admit to shedding tears. I wasn't of a mind to get another dog as my age means I could 'pop my clogs' before the dog and I couldn't bear that!

Then fate stepped in and I landed up with a nearly blind(only 4 year old!) JRT.

He is fantastic and gets on really well with my old Cocker Spaniel and my daughter's JRT cross.

I suppose the moral is if you miss your dog and need canine company (I do as I live alone) then go and find a rescue dog.

If I were to buy these it would be to pull them apart and have nice new Lapua cases to reload with a lighter bullet and nice new 200gr bullets to load for 300 win mag or perhaps 30/06

Not sure of the powder burning rate so I'm not sure if that could be used elsewhere.

The lube on a cast boolit is forced into a groove around the circumference whilst the boolit is pushed through a sizing die.

A soft lube flows around quite easily (eg Alox/Beeswax 50% of each) whereas hard lubes need to be heated to get them to flow.

Softer lubes are IMHO more beneficial on cast pistol calibre boolits whereas the harder lubes suit rifle boolits that are pushed harder and faster.

I hope that helps

On 5/30/2020 at 10:57 PM, Catch-22 said:

Yes to large pistol primers.

Unsure about Bullseye as I’ve never used it before.

Bear in mind that with lead you can’t push the velocity too hard because you’ll get serious leading in the barrel. I normally try to duplicate a cowboy action load. Zero recoil and just tonnes of fun. 0.5kg of powder makes up around 400 rounds, so cheap feeding. 

I’d say Unique, RS20, Viht N330, N340 and possibly Vhit N32C are good for this application. They err on the side of a .44spl load and are just about right with a lead bullet. 

Slower powders, like Viht N105 and N110 are good if wanting to shoot full power .44mag loads with copper bullets. Just don’t shoot lead with them.

One thing to bear in mind with pistol powders is how a minute amount of powder can make a massive difference. They burn fast and can spike quickly, so make your test loads up in 0.1 to 0.2gn increments. And always double check you’ve not thrown a double charge. Rifle powders give much better case to fill ratio, making it harder to double throw. But pistol powders seldom fill the case up (especially if using the fast powders), so make sure you double check as it’s easy to have a nasty surprise.

Best of luck!

The only reasons I know for leading are:

1/ Boolit fit is not good. Use a .430" boolit

2/ inadequate (usually too hard) lube

3/ Boolit metal is too hard and will not obdurate into the rifling

My boolits are cast from indoor range waste cut back with roofing lead or lead pipe metal.

If you get lead deposition in the barrel you're doing something wrong

A good cast boolit should easily do 1500fps with no problem

I use 6,3 grains of GM3 for my loads

Interested in the new Winchester. Price posted please.

Strangely I have had a problem with NOE with my latest order.

I ordered a 6,5 mould for the Creedmore around December, paid as well. Nothing received and no answers to my emails either.

Very sad really after a lot of successful transactions (25 moulds) and I don't know what's happening there.

I have 2 kgs of 165 I'd like to swap for Viht 160

I'm in Consett County Durham

Anyone out there interested please message me

Fabulous rifle. Extremely accurate. I wouldn't part with mine. Buy it and you will never regret it.

I'll take the 6,5 Creedmore if they are still available

I'd start by getting the RCBS DVDs on reloading and studying them.

I'd be interested at a lower price!

I have a DPS 1.

It's very sensitive to drafts. I have to re-calibrate it every four or five operations.

It does come in useful to check other dispensers though, so I'm still using it.

I'd like to get a Hornady dispenser to replace it but the cost is prohibitive.

6 hours ago, 1066 said:

Another thumbs up for the P94S - I've just won the Kent summer season benchrest comp with my Finnfire.

And I won the Durham and Cleveland benchrest postal comp with mine.

I have three of the variants - I'd love to find a full stock one.

If it is chambered the chances of you getting it done are not good.

If it is a barrel blank, just post it.

I would size with a Small Base RCBS full length resizing die.

Personally, I have converted an RCBS 45ACP Carbide die to a push through die and anything with a 308 base is pushed through it to get the last bit of the case body by the case head reduced down to fit the chamber.

Sako TRG 22 in .308 for sale.
Very accurate shooter. Round count around 1200.
PM for photos if you are interested

£1750

On 8/23/2019 at 9:32 AM, John MH said:

KVB223

What case and load were you getting misfires with and were they failure to ignite the powder (scorched powder) after ‘firing’ or a failure of the primer to go ‘bang’; tow different things.

I've had that problem with Murom SRP magnum primers with 34gr Hodgdon 4895 in 6,5 Creedmore. I've gone over to Viht 150 now.

I use RCBS at the moment as I got it cheap! It works extremely well and washes off easily.

16 hours ago, Miseryguts said:

Brand new factory rifle  - Sauer 100 Field shoot 308 win calibre, and yes both the rifle, brass and cartridges all say 380 win

the two ejectors have very strong springs but seem ok movement wise, it takes a bit of effort to depress them, but if I remove the bolt and use  a case I can depress them and clip under the extractor fairly easily.

The bolt chambers the case, but unless I whack the bolt down, the case stays in the chamber when I withdraw the bolt. If I whack it down, then it all extracts. It is the whacking down that is giving the brass damage, but why I am at a loss

I had a problem with a 270 I had fitted a new barrel to. A tight chamber and the slightest bit of dirt would cause the case to stick like glue after firing. I polished the chamber out with a wool mop and Autosol chrome polish - worked a treat. If the gun is brand new then it needs to go back to the supplier!

I have a friend who has just acquired a Sauer in 6,5 Creedmore. The Laminated stock had a split when delivered and had to go back. Maybe their Quality Assurance isn't up to par!!!

1 hour ago, No i deer said:

So why go with the creedmoor when the 6.5x47 out performs it....

Fad?

Flavour of the month?

Bit of heat maybe?

Kroil is good too.

Unless you are shooting over 600 yards I'd consider going down the cast boolit route. Just as accurate and a lot cheaper.

Brand new
These were originally loaded rounds that I have disassembled and as such will need neck sizing.
£25 posted