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On 5/11/2020 at 9:21 AM, Popsbengo said:

The 'advice' is you can play golf etc with members of your own household.  The new advice is as clear as mud.

The new advice is that you can play golf (as an example) with members of your own household OR one person from outside your household providing you maintain 2m distance. 

Here is the wording from the 50 page guidance document - bold text appears in the original document and not where I've chosen to highlight.

as well as exercise, people can now also spend time outdoors subject to: not meeting up with any more than one person from outside your household; continued compliance with social distancing guidelines to remain two metres (6ft) away from people outside your household; good hand hygiene, particularly with respect to shared surfaces; and those responsible for public places being able to put appropriate measures in place to follow the new COVID-19 Secure guidance.

People may exercise outside as many times each day as they wish. For example, this would include angling and tennis. You will still not be able to use areas like playgrounds, outdoor gyms or ticketed outdoor leisure venues, where there is a higher risk of close contact and touching surfaces. You can only exercise with up to one person from outside your household – this means you should not play team sports, except with members of your own household.

People may drive to outdoor open spaces irrespective of distance, so long as they respect social distancing guidance while they are there, because this does not involve contact with people outside your household.

I use Spud's in 6.5x284 and 260rem. I was going to say without any bother but I had 2 pins stuck in necks in the last batch - first time it's happened in lots of cases though.

Cheers baldie - sounds like a bit of fettling could have it feeding a lot smoother... 🙂

Thanks Ronin - that makes sense - round is currently pushed down into the forward lugs rather than at a slight upwards angle. I've dropped you a PM.

Not sure on bottom metal tbh - I think it might be badger as I'm not sure Tier One did LA when I had it built. I can live with the tape if it was a smoother feed though! 🙂

So to expand... The mag rattles when inserted into the action - it's fully retained and won't fall out, but rattles side to side - so yes, mag to bottom metal is loose fit. I wouldn't say floppy, and a couple of bits of insulation tape on the sides of the mag have taken up some slack to stop it rattling in the field (but a fairly agricultural approach on a nice custom rifle!). I was led to believe AI mags are designed for squaddies to bang around and are robust rather than precise.

The feed issue is as you describe - shoulders of the case run into the feed lips at the front of the magazine and it sort of jams the case rather than lifting and feeding it upwards into the chamber. I've never been unable to chamber a round, but it's definitely not slick. Bolt travels forwards smoothly until the shoulders run into the feed lips and then in needs a bit of a clunk to push the round forwards so it pops up and into the chamber.  Pics below - second one you can see how the round feeds forwards rather than being lifted at the tip. It's a 6.5x284 if it makes any odds.

And yep, spoke with the builder at the time and he wasn't aware of any other mag alternatives, but I thought it was worth a check on here just in case anyone knew of anything else around.

I’ve got a standard metal AI long action magazine and one of these https://riflemags.co.uk/magpul-pmag-5-ac-l-magnum-aics-long-action-magazine/ for my bighorn custom stalking rifle and to be honest, neither are a patch on my factory Sako magazine. The standard AI metal one isn’t the slickest feeder and is a rattley big lump. The plastic one is ok but has a horrible, loud springy twangy when loading. Are there any better options out there?

i spoke with Paddy Dane a while ago about Curtis mags and he really didn’t rate them. 

Brilliant - thanks! I've spent ages searching for the right thing over the years to try and get another pair! Plenty on ebay but sure the quality won't be as good as the link above

Nothing illegal about public transport and firearms.

I have a 260 rem built on a short action sako 75 and it’s very accurate but velocities are lower than expected, probably because it can’t optimise the long 6.5 bullets due to the short magazine length (everything is seated quite deep). I had a custom built last year and went long action with 6.5x284, partly because I wanted the extra velocity for lead free bullets. I can honestly say that I’ve never noticed the difference between short and long actions and love the calibre.

On 1/29/2019 at 7:29 PM, Tikka 260 said:

 

Perhaps a halfway house solution would be for that clever person to come up with a slick 3 round capacity magazine that doesent rattle and also feeds reliably to fit AICS bottom metal? That must be possible?

3 in the box and 1 loaded would do for my usage, even in a Fallow Target Rich Environment . 

Food for thought if nothing else. 

(FWIW - I’d put one on the 7x57 too) 

Yes please!! I’d take one tomorrow. I’ve a custom build with a detachable AICS mag (for the same reason as the OP - in and out of highseats / vehicles) and the mag system is such a let-down on a nicely put together custom. Rattles, noisy and generally not a patch on my flush-fitting Sako 75 mag! 

12 hours ago, Orka Akinse said:

Holy crap what the hell are those called?

I have no idea - that's why I can't find them on eBay!! Sorry!

Nearest I can find are Babcocks forceps, but they have flat blades rather than coming to a point.

Just had a look at the Jelen video - yep, very similar to that but without need to go poking around in there with your fingers or change gloves etc.

Style of forceps below...

I've had a quick look on eBay for the type of forceps I've got and closest I can fine is "Babcocks forceps" but they're not quite the same. I'll take a couple of pics of them later and add to the thread...

No problem - tricky to describe in words but I'll try!

1) I like a suspended gralloch (but also works lying down) so hang the beast and open up the stomach.

2) Locate the bowel and move any faeces away from the anus, back up towards the intestines etc. You want don't want a rectum that's stuffed full of poo!

3) Now move to the outside of the back end of the deer. Use forceps to pinch the skin either side of the anus.

4) Insert knife through skin  and cut a hole around the anus (and forceps which are still clamped either side of anus).

5) Withdraw the anus, trimming around the bowel / rectum as it withdraws from the body. You can also insert the knife into the pelvic cavity to free the bowel away from the body. Keep the knife facing away from the bowel so you don't nick it and don't worry about running it around the inner edges of the pelvic girdle - nothing in here you can damage.

6) You should be able to free up all the bowel as it goes through the pelvis and (making sure it's empty of faeces - see earlier!) pull it back into the body cavity and withdraw with the bladder and the rest of the guts. If you open the ribs you can actually gralloch the whole deer without cutting any part of the digestive tract so no risk of contamination.

Hopefully makes sense??

Waste of time.

However I've a set of surgical forceps I use for trimming around the anus. They were given to me by a retired surgeon years ago and this is apparently the same technique used for bowel surgery in humans!! Getting hold of the anus, trimming around it and then withdrawing it slightly as you further release the bowel means it releases really easily once withdrawn the other way (including the bladder - handy if it's a full one!). I don't split the aitch bone, so find this is by far the cleanest way of removing the back end and keeps everything intact without need for knots or cable ties etc (or need to expose additional haunch meat to drying out).

I'm sure you'd be able to get a set on eBay these days...