Shuggy

Quite honestly, there is nothing magical at all about Kroil. But it does seem to have gained some sort of mythical ‘unicorn tears’ reputation amongst the shooting community. Try Plusgas and I am sure that you won’t be disappointed.

On 8/3/2020 at 5:42 AM, baldie said:

My pal who shoots PRL is making this very thing, along with a lot more related stuff, PM for his number.

Its also made in the UK.

I made one only friday, to fit an Atlas super cal to my ARCA.

Which brand of Arca rail is that Dave? I have been looking for one which will fit the AI Keyslot mounts.

I followed a recommendation on here from good old Bradders to use Plusgas. It’s just as good as Kroil and a third of the price. It freed up the rusted screws beautifully on an old Martini-Henry.

3 hours ago, brown dog said:

Understood, but at single shot, surely it's all over too quickly for conductive materials to have time to 'do their thing' - aren't we talking about, effectively, dealing with a sort of surface-level hoop-stress shock load?    

Propellant flame temperatures can get to about 3000 degrees C over a couple of milliseconds. That’s plenty long enough for the response to be affected by the barrel material properties.

On 8/2/2020 at 8:30 AM, brown dog said:

Just idle and thinking:

At target bolt rifle (as opposed to machine gun) rates of fire and heating; I'm struggling to see how thermal expansion rates, or thermal coefficients are even in the game - for target, it's all over by the time the barrel warms through; wouldn't this have to be all about the properties of the surface itself?  

Other than lining the barrel, the only thing that pops into mind is pre-stressing the surface - a la autofrettage

 

My assumption is that ‘fire-cracking’ is caused by thermal stress cracking. This failure mechanism is directly related to the thermal expansion coefficient of the material. That might also give a clue to the difference in damage from single shots as opposed to full auto fire. Single shots will cause a heating/cooling cycle, which is probably more stressing to the material than putting it through a constant thermal load.

I think that Edi is also right about the importance of thermal conductivity on barrel life. This is part of the thinking behind the development of the ‘StraightJacket barrel’ by Teludyne Tech. As I understand it, this is basically a sporter weight barrel enclosed in a sleeve of thermally conductive ceramic potting compound. This was originally developed with military applications in mind.

The vivarium pads or ‘Golden Rods’ are a good idea, but only if you can easily get a cable into your cabinet. Much better than Silica gel is a ‘Vapour Phase Corrosion Inhibitor’. The one that is marketed for the shooting community is Napier VP90, with the sachets being sold specifically for cabinets.

Cat Sh*t One is a brilliant little movie for those that haven’t seen it. Ronin, you must clearly be a fan too.

Oh, and what a fantastic rifle! Do you follow Rondane LongRange on YouTube? He has detailed his change to a 200STR in a JET 01 chassis.

My criteria are very similar to those that No I deer listed above - sound suppression, strength and longevity. I have an Ase Utra SL7 (the Mk1 design): it’s heavy, but in fact lighter and quieter than the Jet Z compact. Very good sound suppression and utterly bomb proof. I personally can’t see the point in a strippable design when they are as well made and as easily maintained as this one.

For my AX308, my criteria were different as I wanted one that went over the AI brake. In the end I went with the rather overpriced AI aluminium design. However it is designed for .338, so should last fairly well on a .308.

An important caveat is that my moderators are purely used for target shooting, so only get carried from the car to the firing point. However, I am just starting a hunting/target crossover type build and will probably go with the lighter SL5i for this one.

59 minutes ago, Popsbengo said:

We went through this at an earlier post.  The offset is parallel and as you say, the bullet should strike the same offset at all distances.  If you just add that into your firing solution then you're back on target

 

According to a ‘Forgotten Weapons’ video on YouTube, this method was often successfully used by WWI British snipers whose rifles had offset scopes.

Do you know the inclination in MOA? Or perhaps the AI model number?

Thanks.

An alternative to consider for a real AIAW would be hydro dipping the panels.

Lots of love for Timefactors on here. I have been a fan for years and thought that I was the only one here with that affliction. My absolute favourite is the PRS-18Q, but it is definitely in the ‘tool watch’ category. On TZUK someone once described it as the ‘thinking man’s beater’. Sad to see that it is discontinued, but they do turn up secondhand.

Trouble is, my other watches no longer get a look in.

Actually I just reread the original post. I had mistaken the lower picture for an original Precista, but perhaps it is one of the modern ones?

All the Timefactors that I have owned (3 or 4 I think) have had great lume.

I absolutely get the difference between a tool watch and a field watch. I think I have the perfect suggestion for you - the Timefactors PRS-10. Basically a modern copy of the CWC/Precista G10 with a 33mm dial. Waterproof, with a sapphire crystal and a 10-year battery. And good value at £195. 

Wow! That’s a special one.

That’s a lovely Omega!

The original Bond watch (in the books) was an Explorer.

Topscots, I reckon that your experience entitles you to an opinion more than most!

It seems to me that many of those who criticise the SA80 on forums have never even seen an A2 or A3, far less fired one. Truly the dreadful A1 continues to cast a long shadow. The fact is that the A2 endured a decade of hard use on Ops Telic and Herrick with very few problems. It works reliably, shoots accurately and does its job well. 

BD is quite right about its disadvantages of weight and handedness, (although the A3 has managed to trim off 150g!). The A3 has a few ergonomic improvements and does seem to shoot a bit tighter. 

We also hear the usual allegations of MOD corruption, which is total rubbish.

I could be wrong, but isn’t this one of those ‘I wouldn’t start from here’ situations? Wouldn’t you be better off with selling your plastic stock and buying one made from laminate, GRP, carbon fibre or aluminium?

A little research would show you several modern mechanical watch brands that are not in the least bit cheap and cheerful. Some have been mentioned already, e.g. Seiko, Orient, Seagull, Timefactors, Steinhart.

There’s nothing wrong at all with a vintage watch, but you really have to factor in the cost of a service.

Check out the British Horological Institute: three accredited pocket watch repairers in the Greater Manchester area.

http://bhi.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/00005-Accredited-Register-POCKET-WATCHES-V20-17.05.17.pdf

Hi all, new boy to the forum here. I have a spare .308 slot and would like to get an AI. For the AXMC users, did anyone add a variation to there FAC for .338 first and if so did you have a hard time explaining to the police that riffle can be 2 calibers?

For my AX308, it went on as 'one 7.62/0.308 rifle', with two spare barrels in 6mm and 6.5mm. I just explained to them what it was for and they said 'No problem Sir'. But then again, this is Wiltshire Firearms, who are a thoroughly professional bunch.

I think that you would need to do a variation to the primary calibre.

Most UK knife sellers now have seperate sections which contain 'UK EDC legal' models. There is really no need to steer oneself into legally dubious areas when there are so many good choices available.