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Setting up warne rings


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Have recently read something on here that mentioned setting warne rings (on warne maxima bases)up properly. Fearful of sounding like a simpleton but, is there a right and wrong way to fit them? I ask because I am about to swap the scope on my steyr and want to get it right (current scope was mounted for me when I purchased the gun). Do I follow common sense or is there something I should know?

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;) Common sense should do it, tempered with knowing what you need !

 

Strip the rings out of the blister package and drool at the thought of your scope never moving again under recoil!

 

Remove the QD levers (if fitted) and park the rings around your scope tube - levers both on the same side please! Tighten the BOTTOM torx screws firmly and reattach the levers. The top screws are still loose at this point and the scope will revolve and hopefully move forward and back within the rings. Position the scope on your rifle with the rings as far apart as the mounting arrangement allows. Tighten the QD levers or clamp screws. You don't need to tighten ANY of these screws or levers more than finger tight.

 

Adjust the magnification of your scope to maximum and then adopt your usual shooting position. No, crawling in a water filled ditch is not required - just assume kneeling, standing or prone - whatever you do most of! :D Have a friend move the scope forward and backward until you have a clear sight picture that allows a full field of view.

 

Change magnification to minimum and gently place the rifle so it is perfectly upright, then rotate scope until the cross hairs are also vertical. Tighten the top screws until finger tight.

 

There ya go - perfectly set up for YOU. I find the trick to confirming the correct eye relief is to close eyes, hold the rifle as though about to fire, open eyes and the sight picture should be perfect. If not - adjust until correct.

 

Regarding focus - the fast focus adjustment on the eyepiece is only intended to focus the crosshair - NOT the picture. So, to set the scope for your eyes - point your EMPTY rifle at a distant cloud or some other blank feature, concentrate on the cross hairs and adjust until they are crystal clear. .........Job done!

 

Then we get onto bore sighting, to ensure your first shot is on paper at 50yds................ but that's another story! :D

 

Enjoy the Steyr, watch out for flexing fore end giving unpredictable groups - a known issue with some of their range.

 

Rgds Ian :D

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Nice one ian F :D Some good advise!!

May i share a recent experience using my warne mounts!!

I am using a RPA actioned and triggered 6.5-284 and i use a nightforce 5.5-22 - 56 scope with warne mounts , well i was out shooting at a 1000yds with my good buddies and when i went to dial in for a 20mph wind i ran out at 12 . 5 minutes of right wind , so with the help of our welsh holiday guest 6mm BR and varmartin we dismantled the scope and mounts...

We checked the mount bases and they was fine , so we mounted the mounts facing the opposite side and hey prestro.. 25 minutes one side and 35 minutes of windage the other....

Always learning me dears...........

All the best.............

RAY....................... :D;)

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Enjoy the Steyr, watch out for flexing fore end giving unpredictable groups - a known issue with some of their range.

 

Rgds Ian :D

 

This "floppy fore end" thing is something I have noticed as is the occasional odd grouping. I had half a plan to stiffen things up a bit with some resin of some kind to fill the spaces in the inside of the fore end. Is this what others have done?

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This "floppy fore end" thing is something I have noticed as is the occasional odd grouping. I had half a plan to stiffen things up a bit with some resin of some kind to fill the spaces in the inside of the fore end. Is this what others have done?

 

Toots

 

Yes, it is a regular 'fix'. The Mark one Prohunter range suffered quite badly, bear down on a bipod - fore end flexes and touches barrel = inconsistent grouping. Correct sling usage can have the same effect. Mark two was meant to have addressed this issue - but still hear of problems.

 

I have seen folks pour in resin/Marinetex/Acraglas around carbon rods to stiffen things up. Adds weight - but it is a small penalty for the gain in consistency.

 

Rgds Ian :D

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Not a great fan of warne mounts at all!!! They are ok but and a big but is that you can influence zero characteristics by swoping around side by side back to front and all configurations etc and you will gain and loose windage in all sorts of directions.Truth is they dont snug up right at all in my opinion but you may just get lucky first time ,hope u do???

To kick off you must have dovetails/mounts absolutley in line with barrel and then rings just the same to even begin getting close to a centered scope setting before you start making adjustment for a repeatable zero. Take a long look at what the bench rest boys use and why? Dont see warne mounts on their set ups.jmho.You should not have to do any special setting up of bases/rings etc if the action and barrel is true and the mounts are central etc the scope will lay reasonably centered from go with minimal alteration but this is the perfect world and rarely acheivable and that is why the bench rest guys do all this lapping of rings etc ??Does my head in but I have found on my on my RPA and leupold MK 4 rings that a close to centered scope is only a few clicks away from a perfect 100yd zero and gives me confidence at the longer ranges when dialling up.Still miss on occasions but then dont we all!!!cheers onehole.

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Guest 308Panther
This "floppy fore end" thing is something I have noticed as is the occasional odd grouping. I had half a plan to stiffen things up a bit with some resin of some kind to fill the spaces in the inside of the fore end. Is this what others have done?

 

 

No....

Most over the age of 50 use Viagra.

 

Sorry..couldnt resist that one.

 

308Panther

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Nice one 308Panther :( . Have fitted new scope with no hassles. Not had a chance to play out yet as I'm currently staring at a large tub of Devcon and the stock off the steyr. Looking forward to a stiff one by bed time.

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Toots,

some injection moulded plastic stocks are

made of the same material as the glue bottles,

meaning epoxy resins will not stick to them.

Try putting a bit of devcon on a spot and see.

It would be better to stiffen the forend in one

go with a bedding job, all in one cast.

If epoxy doesn't glue to your stock, you can

still cast the whole thing, bedding and all carbon

or glass reinforced and bolt it to the stock.

A wooden stock would be a piece of cake to stiffen up.

 

edi

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