Lamp problem

[foxwhistler]

I was asked a few weeks ago if i could try and thin out some foxes by a farmer who brings lambs to the abattoir where i work. I said i would see when i could manage it, however as the farm is 30 miles away, it was only last night i finally found the time to get up there.

We arrived at 9.30 and first went into the house for some tea and cakes (got to get the priorities right). After that it was time to set up and get started.

First field, and there was a fox a fair way away down the field. I tried calling but the fox wasn`t interested. Just sat there looking at the pretty orange light.

As the gatepost was nice and wide, and unusualy at just the right hight i decided that the shot was on. Held steady in the middle of his chest and squeezed the trigger. Success and the fox dropped without a twitch. Really pleased as when i paced him out he was about 212 yards. Not the longest ever, but still a nice distance.

Here he is, and what good condition he was in.

 

 

Set off again and entered the next field and there was another fox at about 250 yards away. This one didn`t have a good rest to shoot from so i tried calling.however he wasn`t interested.

I told my lamp man to kill the light and called again, and when we lit up the fox again he had come in to about 200 yards.

Once again we killed the light and i started calling again.

This time when we lit up the fox again he had come in about another 50 yards so i decided to shoot it off the sticks.

Just then the light went off, and Matthew said there was something wrong with the Lightforce.

I checked the bulb and it was good so i tried the fuse in the connector and that had burn`t out. No problem and i changed the fuse, however the lamp still would not work.

With my other lamp 30 miles away and no other option we headed home.

When i got home i found that the two fuses on the battery pack had also blown so i gather something pretty terminal had happened.

So tonight i have been rewiring my lamp with 160 amp speaker cable, and also got rid of the cigar lighter connector.

It seems to be working now,but needs a longer test.

Still it`s taught me a lesson, and from now on i will be taking two lamps, and my spare battery. Especially if i`m that far from home .

[nemasis243]

I had a similar problem years ago , now I run direct from the battery without any fuses,

You will find that where the cable enters the landle of the lamp it is a weak spot and due to flexing the cable is very prome to cracking in this area.

The lightforce is a great lamp and I have 3 of them in the boot of the car when we go lamping , but this cable problem is a very common thing .

I contact Lightforce direct and they replied saying that they were awere of the problem and it would be addressed,but I dont think anything has been done.

I am at the moment trying to install a jack plug into the handle so I can take the whole lamp off the extension cable when I need to , as the jack plug has a clip to stop the male and female comming apart when in use it will take all strain of the spindely wire that comes from the handle.

[Redfox]

The Lightforce is a good light but crap electrically the switch and the coiled lead both give trouble eventually.

I think you mean 160watt speaker cable, twin 160amp cables would not even go in the handle.

I buy the heavy speaker cable from maplins ( available mail order ) http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=49 , you can use the Hi-fi cable that is a touch bigger but you are only drawing about 8 amps with your lamp so this 15 amp cable is plenty and still flexible, I have used it for years.

Not for use on mains power by the way 12-24V only.

The switch is a lightforce part and I keep one about me, as you say always take 2 lamps learned that lesson years ago

I have modded one where the switch actually operates a 10 amp miniature relay I put in the lamp so the switch only carries milliamps and has lasted at least 5 yrs up to now but it is more work to do that.

Redfox

[JohnGalway]

I had a similar problem years ago , now I run direct from the battery without any fuses,

 

Same as that.

 

I've four, 1 Lance, 2 Strikers and 1 Blitz.

 

The Lance is in need of a new cable, just haven't done it since I can switch reflectors around.

 

I've rewired both Strikers, one scope mounted, one hand held. Basically, I cut the LF lead and threw away the switch, curly bit, all LF connections, also did both battery chargers (Deben 800m/a).

 

I replaced with a cable from a car shop, just explained to the bloke what I was doing and he sorted out the cable which has been excellent. I bought two inline dimmers, just because I wanted a dimmer and the poxy LF switches had melted anyway. It took a little testing to figure out what lead was what but take it slow and it's easy enough. I always marked the + wire with a bit of tape. That way I can put a red eye connector on the end of that wire and a blue eye connector on the - wire. I might change those connections again but they've worked great.

 

So no more fuses for me, they blow, the holders melt, in well over a year I've had zero problems running without fuses in all weathers. Got rid of those crap LF cigar lighter connections, they melt, I use croc clips direct to the battery if lamping from a vehicle. Personally I'd get rid of the switch too because they've gone on me too.

 

All part of the fun of owning a LF

 

BTW, there's a great deal on a LF Blitz on Ebay, located in Australia, got croc clip connections, it's never gone wrong on me once, cost significantly less than anywhere in this part of the world including postage etc.

[varminter]

Nice shooting buddy!!

Shame about it being cut short though!!!

Seen Andys set up when he was kind enough to invite Dave and myself out for some foxing , i liked the direct battery supply Captin!!!

I had the same cable problems with my blitz too!! , so i took it to a electrician from work and i now have a 12 foot static heavy duty cable ( the coil was just crap adding extra tension ) and a heavy duty plug!!!

So far its been working like a dream!!!!

All the best................

RAY..........................

[craigyboy]

Just one question ont he subject of lightforce lamps how the hell do you open the lamp head up to get at the wiring? Mine has also been nothing but bother but I have it pretty well sorted, replaced the cigar light with big 2 pin plus like you get on electric lawnmowers and its been working great but I would love to get inside the lamp head to replace the whole wire.

[foxwhistler]

Thanks for the replys, though i also cant work out how to get into the handle. I changed the wire just as far as the heat shrink in the handle, just before the switch.

[Guest martin]

Same as that.

 

I've four, 1 Lance, 2 Strikers and 1 Blitz.

 

The Lance is in need of a new cable, just haven't done it since I can switch reflectors around.

 

I've rewired both Strikers, one scope mounted, one hand held. Basically, I cut the LF lead and threw away the switch, curly bit, all LF connections, also did both battery chargers (Deben 800m/a).

 

I replaced with a cable from a car shop, just explained to the bloke what I was doing and he sorted out the cable which has been excellent. I bought two inline dimmers, just because I wanted a dimmer and the poxy LF switches had melted anyway. It took a little testing to figure out what lead was what but take it slow and it's easy enough. I always marked the + wire with a bit of tape. That way I can put a red eye connector on the end of that wire and a blue eye connector on the - wire. I might change those connections again but they've worked great.

 

So no more fuses for me, they blow, the holders melt, in well over a year I've had zero problems running without fuses in all weathers. Got rid of those crap LF cigar lighter connections, they melt, I use croc clips direct to the battery if lamping from a vehicle. Personally I'd get rid of the switch too because they've gone on me too.

 

All part of the fun of owning a LF

 

BTW, there's a great deal on a LF Blitz on Ebay, located in Australia, got croc clip connections, it's never gone wrong on me once, cost significantly less than anywhere in this part of the world including postage etc.

 

Where did you get the in line dimmers mate? I am in the middle of rewiring one of my LF lamps(well,on hold for a while now,but....)..........martin

[cornishdeer]

I was asked a few weeks ago if i could try and thin out some foxes by a farmer who brings lambs to the abattoir where i work. I said i would see when i could manage it, however as the farm is 30 miles away, it was only last night i finally found the time to get up there.

We arrived at 9.30 and first went into the house for some tea and cakes (got to get the priorities right). After that it was time to set up and get started.

First field, and there was a fox a fair way away down the field. I tried calling but the fox wasn`t interested. Just sat there looking at the pretty orange light.

As the gatepost was nice and wide, and unusualy at just the right hight i decided that the shot was on. Held steady in the middle of his chest and squeezed the trigger. Success and the fox dropped without a twitch. Really pleased as when i paced him out he was about 212 yards. Not the longest ever, but still a nice distance.

Here he is, and what good condition he was in.

 

 

Set off again and entered the next field and there was another fox at about 250 yards away. This one didn`t have a good rest to shoot from so i tried calling.however he wasn`t interested.

I told my lamp man to kill the light and called again, and when we lit up the fox again he had come in to about 200 yards.

Once again we killed the light and i started calling again.

This time when we lit up the fox again he had come in about another 50 yards so i decided to shoot it off the sticks.

Just then the light went off, and Matthew said there was something wrong with the Lightforce.

I checked the bulb and it was good so i tried the fuse in the connector and that had burn`t out. No problem and i changed the fuse, however the lamp still would not work.

With my other lamp 30 miles away and no other option we headed home.

When i got home i found that the two fuses on the battery pack had also blown so i gather something pretty terminal had happened.

So tonight i have been rewiring my lamp with 160 amp speaker cable, and also got rid of the cigar lighter connector.

It seems to be working now,but needs a longer test.

Still it`s taught me a lesson, and from now on i will be taking two lamps, and my spare battery. Especially if i`m that far from home .

i too have a lightent force and have melted so many cigarets lighter ends that i hae now fitted with a comercial tractor implement plug and i no longer suffer from over heating as i use none stop for hours when im doing my rabbit contracts

[Alycidon]

Fag lighters are not designed for continual use and also are not rated for the 8amps most LF lamps draw. Hence melting problems.

 

Use a DIN socket and plug, smaller than a fag lighter one, designed for about 14 amps constant Does not get hot or melt.

 

A

[JohnGalway]

Where did you get the in line dimmers mate? I am in the middle of rewiring one of my LF lamps(well,on hold for a while now,but....)..........martin

 

I got mine from Debens Martin, but my enterprising mate Clivej found them a tenner cheaper >here< Same unit, works well.

[Jinks]

It's easy enough to open up the hand held lamp, remove the reflector housing and bulb, remove the red cap from the bottom of the handle, pull of the rubber cover from the switch and unscrew the nut securing the switch.....

 

 

The bulb housing pulls out of the handle body, use a small screwdriver to gently lever it out, then the whole wiring and switch can be pulled out through the handle....

 

 

It is a bit fiddly to get the wiring back through the handle and to get the switch back through the hole unless you've got small fingers.

The scope mounted version is slightly different, the red panels need to be removed from the sides of the handle and a rivet needs to be drilled out to enable the bulb housing to be removed.

 

 

I have mounted a dimmer switch on the back of the scope mounted lamp, and have removed the inline switch. This is the lamp I use mostly now, It can be used hand held easily and just clipped on to the scope when needed.

 

I also use the DIN type connectors, much better than cig plugs, they dont burn out and they also lock into the plugs.

 

 

Hope this helps,

 

Cheers,

 

Jinks

[Redfox]

Good post Jinksy bang on the nail, just one point, Ihave brand new one of the handhelds and they seem to now all have the pop rivet in.

Secret is 4mm or 5mm drill and go easy, it will take the head off thena 1/8" drill or nail whatever and gentle taps on the rivet body will drive it in so the lampholder comes out ( dont forget to find and remove the rivet body they short out beautifully.

Just re-pop rivet it in when you have finished.

For those who want the relay which fits in the body and saves the switch http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2512

the 12v 12A relay will last for ever and is easy to solder in, solder the wire carefully to the Right pins, take a pos / neg feed off the main wire in thin wire take the pos to the switch and on to the pos side of the relay coil and just take the thin neg wire to the other relay wire this will make the switch work the relay ( I join into the main wires in the handle by baring the wires about 4 inches from the end wrap the thin wire round then solder cover in insulating tape afterwards) take the very ends and wrap round the pins of the switch contacts in the relay ( there are 6 altogether the two to the coil shape are the coil contacts ant the three at the other end are the Pos feed in the centre and the normally open and normally closed contacts ( this is in the non energised position) so wire the bulb to the normally open one and when you operate the switch it will make it live, darn wont let me copy the pic, but it is fairly easy to follow on the ad page if not ask me.

My old one has been like this for years and still going strong ( dont forget to wrap the relay in insulating tape as well!

 

Got the pic

Redfox

[Jinks]

Bugger, I'd better stop reloading and gun cleaning on the kitchen table , camera flash shows up all the scratches,

Dont tell the missus............

[col48]

first thing we do is sort out the soldering on the lightforce lamps,as soon as we get them.all so i change the plugs,my - got me some from work and i have never had any problems since

i have all so played around with loads of different bulbs,

save your self the hassle and buy the osram they are the best. the others work but not as well as the proper ones.

 

just my 2 cents

 

ATB

Colin

[foxwhistler]

Thanks for the replys. Plenty to think about.

[JohnGalway]

I got mine from Debens Martin, but my enterprising mate Clivej found them a tenner cheaper >here< Same unit, works well.

 

Correction!

 

I was wrong about the above unit Mine arrived today, on the instructions it reads "Do not use on lights with a power rating over 50W"

 

My mistake, apologies should anyone have purchased one like I did.

[Guest Jarvis]

Where did you get the in line dimmers mate? I am in the middle of rewiring one of my LF lamps(well,on hold for a while now,but....)..........martin

 

Deben sell 2 different dimmer assemblies. One for their own branded lamps and one for the Lightforce range .

 

The one you want is this one.

 

http://www.deben.com/lights_lamping/lightf...mmer_switch.php

 

Just change the crappy fag lighter connections to DIN's and your away.

[Guest Jarvis]

Good post Jinksy bang on the nail, just one point, Ihave brand new one of the handhelds and they seem to now all have the pop rivet in.

Secret is 4mm or 5mm drill and go easy, it will take the head off thena 1/8" drill or nail whatever and gentle taps on the rivet body will drive it in so the lampholder comes out ( dont forget to find and remove the rivet body they short out beautifully.

Just re-pop rivet it in when you have finished.

For those who want the relay which fits in the body and saves the switch http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2512

the 12v 12A relay will last for ever and is easy to solder in, solder the wire carefully to the Right pins, take a pos / neg feed off the main wire in thin wire take the pos to the switch and on to the pos side of the relay coil and just take the thin neg wire to the other relay wire this will make the switch work the relay ( I join into the main wires in the handle by baring the wires about 4 inches from the end wrap the thin wire round then solder cover in insulating tape afterwards) take the very ends and wrap round the pins of the switch contacts in the relay ( there are 6 altogether the two to the coil shape are the coil contacts ant the three at the other end are the Pos feed in the centre and the normally open and normally closed contacts ( this is in the non energised position) so wire the bulb to the normally open one and when you operate the switch it will make it live, darn wont let me copy the pic, but it is fairly easy to follow on the ad page if not ask me.

My old one has been like this for years and still going strong ( dont forget to wrap the relay in insulating tape as well!

 

Got the pic

Redfox

 

Andy

 

As clear as mud!

 

Any chance of some pics or a larger version of the wiring schematic?

 

Ta.

[bigun]

i too run mine direct from the battery without any fuses..no need for a fuse as theres no power going in just comeing out ..it will never going higher than 12volt just lower ..never had problems in two years of useing one ..

[Redfox]

Wait until it shorts out and the cable over your legs is glowing bright red and cutting them off!! or your arm or body etc.

You will, whilst screaming, so wish there was a 10amp fuse near the battery then, to turn off the current from the battery which is what it is for, not for protecting the battery.

Redfox