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Hi. I want to buy a floating reamer holder to chamber a barrel but I'm unsure which to go for. Has anyone used either the PTG floating reamer holder or the bald eagle type? There's a bit of a difference in price but I'm more concerned about the quality and ultimately which will do the better job. Or do you use something else, if so, I'd be very grateful to hear about it. Thanks guys! Adrian.

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Hi,

 

I use the PTG floating reamer holder with no problems or complaints from customers. Any of the systems on the market will work. The end results are dictated by the skill and care of the user more than the exact choice of set up. Speak to 10 'smiths' on here and you will probably get 10 different answers as to the equipment and set up used,

 

Alan

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I use the Gre-Tan holder, as i have the ability to dial in the dead center in my tool offset page. i would recommend the Bald Eagle for your first holder, as it is cheap, simple, and effective and if its good enough for Callum Ferguson then it will work for you.

 

 

7424767638_6d5565bd95_c.jpg

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I use the Gre-Tan holder, as i have the ability to dial in the dead center in my tool offset page. i would recommend the Bald Eagle for your first holder, as it is cheap, simple, and effective and if its good enough for Callum Ferguson then it will work for you.

 

 

7424767638_6d5565bd95_c.jpg

 

That looks like a Haas TL lathe, is it? I take it you're using the reamer, attached to the tool post??? I have thought about doing this as I can probably get it closer to zero than I can my tailstock. Out of interest, how do you advance the reamer in to the job; manually via hand wheel, programmed feed or through the hand wheel on the control. Thanks.

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Yes it's a TL1, so far not a bad little lathe, just about to get a Doosan 280n as well. Yes reaming off the multifix toolpost, the Dorian which came with the lathe was junk and didn't repeat worth 2 farts. I align it parallel to the z axis with a ground bar, then dial in the reamer holder with a .0001 indicator.

 

Chambering I still use the hand wheel, using the control as a DRO, and a chamber flushing system with a hydra cell 1000psi coolant pump, the spindle load meter tells me what's happening with chip load, and reading the chips/curls allows me to adjust feed rate and speed. Checking headspace with a chambering gauge I made from a Mitutoyo digimatic indicator.

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Yes it's a TL1, so far not a bad little lathe, just about to get a Doosan 280n as well. Yes reaming off the multifix toolpost, the Dorian which came with the lathe was junk and didn't repeat worth 2 farts. I align it parallel to the z axis with a ground bar, then dial in the reamer holder with a .0001 indicator.

 

Chambering I still use the hand wheel, using the control as a DRO, and a chamber flushing system with a hydra cell 1000psi coolant pump, the spindle load meter tells me what's happening with chip load, and reading the chips/curls allows me to adjust feed rate and speed. Checking headspace with a chambering gauge I made from a Mitutoyo digimatic indicator.

 

I think a Doosan 280n is very similar to a Doosan lynx, we have one of them at work. I quite like it, it's strong and rigid for it's size and I find the Fanuc control slightly quicker to program than Haas.

 

Just a couple of questions re the flushing system; do you actually need the 1000psi pressure to get the oil past the busing etc or do you find you have it turned down from that and is it as messy as I imagine?

 

Thanks!

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1351195838[/url]' post='135042']

I think a Doosan 280n is very similar to a Doosan lynx, we have one of them at work. I quite like it, it's strong and rigid for it's size and I find the Fanuc control slightly quicker to program than Haas.

 

Just a couple of questions re the flushing system; do you actually need the 1000psi pressure to get the oil past the busing etc or do you find you have it turned down from that and is it as messy as I imagine?

 

Thanks!

 

Normally run at 3-400 psi which is more than adequate. I just use the hydra cell as I got it for it for a steal.

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  • 2 months later...

Yes it's a TL1, so far not a bad little lathe, just about to get a Doosan 280n as well. Yes reaming off the multifix toolpost, the Dorian which came with the lathe was junk and didn't repeat worth 2 farts. I align it parallel to the z axis with a ground bar, then dial in the reamer holder with a .0001 indicator.

 

Chambering I still use the hand wheel, using the control as a DRO, and a chamber flushing system with a hydra cell 1000psi coolant pump, the spindle load meter tells me what's happening with chip load, and reading the chips/curls allows me to adjust feed rate and speed. Checking headspace with a chambering gauge I made from a Mitutoyo digimatic indicator.

Buy a Mazak then I can come out to fix it and you can do me a good price on an action as a thankyou :-))

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Was looking at a Mazak Nexus VMC last year, but realistically it's too much machine for me, looking for a Haas VF2 for stock work and other little trinkets

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Was looking at a Mazak Nexus VMC last year, but realistically it's too much machine for me, looking for a Haas VF2 for stock work and other little trinkets

Well, I work at Mazak and i've got friends who work for DMG and Hass. So if you need any advice please message me and I may be able to help.

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