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Minox ZA-5 scope 6-20x50 query


TonyH

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I'm impressed with the optics, reticle and handling of my Minox but I wonder if anyone shares my reservations about its turret-zeroing arrangement. I had a long chat the other day with a friendly technical bod (a rifleman too) at Minox UK, who agreed with me that the design is not as good as it might be, though similar to some other brands such as Leupold. In order to zero the turret cap after getting range zero, three tiny hex-head grubscrews placed equidistant around the cap are loosened so that the outer cap can rotate freely around the actuating spindle, then tightened at the correct setting. It's a bit fiddly to try and tighten these with equal force; if they have been tightened strongly at an earlier time, it is difficult to re-set the cap close to the original setting since the spindle develops a cratered effect and the grubscrews will try to centre themselves in the old holes; and worst of all, there is a slight degree of play in the system - which the Minox guy told me had been reported by other users. From the zero setting, initial movement of the turret produces a sort of half-click, a degree of creep, prior to clicking very positively after that. With care, and learning how to do it, one is able to achieve repeatable settings; but really I'd like no creep at all...

Anyone else experienced this, and/or suggest a remedy?

Tony

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Tony easy remedy but depends on actual size as I don't know the scope in question. Remove the x3 screws before the spindle gets marked and place a small piece of lead, copper or hard plastic down the locking screw holes then replace the screws. Something like an old small fishing line weight might fit (dependant on screw size).

 

The screw then nips the lead etc and indirectly the shaft so no marking or indentation occurs. ;)

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Tony easy remedy but depends on actual size as I don't know the scope in question. Remove the x3 screws before the spindle gets marked and place a small piece of lead, copper or hard plastic down the locking screw holes then replace the screws. Something like an old small fishing line weight might fit (dependant on screw size).

 

The screw then nips the lead etc and indirectly the shaft so no marking or indentation occurs. ;)

 

Thanks for this, should have thought of it myself! I've done the same with grubscrews on e.g. die locking rings that use that system. Unfortunately the turret spindle already has some noticeable cratering, but I'll try your suggestion using the smallest lead shot or solder I can find in my various shooting/fishing cupboards, shelves, old jam jars in corners of the garage...

Regards, Tony

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I find solder is a good option either dropped off the iron or trimmed off a suitable diameter reel. ;)

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