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Condition1

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Posts posted by Condition1

  1. Dragging this old thread up again. I can’t get RL16 anywhere so going to have to work up a new load. Was thinking for easy to find vit N-160 plenty of info around then I read about this N-555

     

    i use 147 led-M but don’t even have a recipe for that not that much of an issue I can work up but I like to have a baseline can’t find any recipes or people having experience with it with 147, 

    So just go with N-160? 

  2. 41 minutes ago, Popsbengo said:

    The point of the SCC is to provide an approved 'passport' for shooters wishing to shoot away from their club ranges.  I would be surprised if a commercial range would just let someone with an FAC rock up and start shooting without some competence checks.

    Your location is not identified, where are you based?


    Doncaster my club is no long nra affiliated so I can no longer shoot at strensall where we used to with a scc.

     

    however had a few replies to my question it looks like joining the nra is the way to go 

  3. Yes range fees are fine. Surprisingly reasonable.


    we’d only want scoped rifle for long range probably possible iron sights for me and my lever actions to shoot further out maybe so might add that.

    . We have access to everything else including target shotgun whenever we want do probably wouldn’t take that long drive for anything else. 
     

    thanks again looks like it will suit us fine. 

     

  4. 10 minutes ago, Roy W said:

    Not sure if that is it. I think that might be for Probationers. Ask them. I think my Gallery Rifle assessment was £35, from memory.

    They are the ones issuing the SCC so they want to know you are safe, they have to pay their staff, so everything costs. 

    You only have to pay once so get as many categories as you need.

    Shooting is expensive. People can pay £1 a round or more for ammo, then think the FAC fees, or £88 to join the NRA is expensive. The ranges at Bisley are superb, worth every penny If you make use of them.

    Thanks for the replies I’ve just downloaded their application form

    Yes

    10 minutes ago, Roy W said:

    Not sure if that is it. I think that might be for Probationers. Ask them. I think my Gallery Rifle assessment was £35, from memory.

    They are the ones issuing the SCC so they want to know you are safe, they have to pay their staff, so everything costs. 

    You only have to pay once so get as many categories as you need.

    Shooting is expensive. People can pay £1 a round or more for ammo, then think the FAC fees, or £88 to join the NRA is expensive. The ranges at Bisley are superb, worth every penny If you make use of them.

    im guessing the scc training is this 

     

    10 minutes ago, Roy W said:

    Not sure if that is it. I think that might be for Probationers. Ask them. I think my Gallery Rifle assessment was £35, from memory.

    They are the ones issuing the SCC so they want to know you are safe, they have to pay their staff, so everything costs. 

    You only have to pay once so get as many categories as you need.

    Shooting is expensive. People can pay £1 a round or more for ammo, then think the FAC fees, or £88 to join the NRA is expensive. The ranges at Bisley are superb, worth every penny If you make use of them.

    Thanks Roy,

    yes I’ll ring again tomorrow. Yes £35 is a lot more reasonable. ( I’m not just tight covid had hit finances quite a bit) oh belive me I know how much this hobby costs. Well I do now since I actually had to work out how much I was spending :) 

     

    that would be great if that’s all it costs for us to get access a few times a year. Perfectly acceptable in fact seems a bargain.

     

  5. Thanks for the replies very much appreciated. I’ve just downloaded their application form

     

    im guessing the scc training is this assessment fee they mention below Which seems a bit steep. 

    not sure how many times I have to prove I’m safe, from above they won’t even take into account my PSA membership or membership of two clubs I had to do probation for as proof I’ll not shoot my foot off.  Up until 2018 I was paying £10 for the scc.

    oh well it is what it is.  Not too bad I suppose over all.
    I dint think my mates will want to spend that much but I will pass on the info to them.
     

    AE2B4040-69F2-44A7-8495-07754B033CD9.png

  6. Hi,

    I’ve just posted a question about bisley. But to answer your question yes I’m looking for somewhere to shoot at longer ranges  there are a few of us stuck at 100m now.

    700 would be great 1k even better. 
     

    somewhere I could pay and play at 700 without being a member or needing an scc and all that entails probation etc 

    would be what I wanted.

     

    no idea if that’s possible 

  7. Hi,

    \I’ll try and be brief. Our club is no longer nra affiliated so I can no longer get a scc ( we used to shoot at strensall ) occasionally.

    Im a  member of two clubs the other isn’t either. I’m stuck at 100 meters. A few of us would like to reach out further, I personally would like electronic targets or at least steel, hanging around in the butts got real boring real quick. Bisley would seem to be a good idea.

    so I need to join the NRA at £88 a year. Ok not too bad.

    Spoke with a very helpful lady today but I’m a bit dense so your help would be appreciated.

    she said I could get an scc once  I was a member of the nra, but is there a probation period like other clubs?

    how do I get a scc from bisley will I need to take a course or something?

    once I have an scc can I just rent an electronic lane for a morning 1200 that 3 or 4 of us can share?

     

    thanks in advance I’ve never been there but it seems perfect. Just unsure of how it work. Website confused me, please use small words :)

     

     

     

  8. On 12/18/2019 at 4:49 PM, jma said:

     Iv installed True flight to my Fenix 3.

    However it appears not to work, its visible in apps but click on it and nothing happens.

    I guess my watch does not support it, its no big deal as i use Strelok anyway.

    Thanks for sharing though.

    cheers

    John


    hi,

    I have a fenix 6, I’ve searched but can’t find it to upload to my watch, can you let me know where you found it.

    thanks


     

    never mind just found it. Cheers

  9. 6 hours ago, Re-Pete said:

    The second link is just for the wire coils, not the heater.....read the description. (Unless Condition 1 meant that you'd need both?)

    This is a regular ploy used on ebay...........

    Pete

    Yes, you would need both. Not sure if the controller has a timer. If it does buying both of those might work. 
    not an expert one these was just looking to see if I could see a very cheap alternative. Not quite cheep enough for me though.

    but if you look around that site you can just basically get the board for 20 quid. 

  10. 18 hours ago, John MH said:

    Well if you want to be really specific its best to try several sized cases as each will probably be slightly different (more or less spring back even if annealed) and opt for the average but we are probably talking less than 0.001" here and the ability to consitently and accurately measure that difference starts to get difficult.


    getting quite complicated now :) and probably down to a level I don’t have the stamina for. I’d probably start losing track going into this much detail.  But baby steps, I’ll experiment with die insertion or maybe she’ll holders.

    I have never annealed, don’t really want to start as it looks expensive and more time consuming.

    we are probably heading into the realms of diminishing returns for my application. I don’t compete or anything, I shoot for fun,  I do enjoy my bolt actions and plan to shoot more this year with them but PSG and lever actions take a lot of time.

  11. 18 hours ago, Catch-22 said:

    Simples really.

    Take your bolt out, remove the firing pin/striker and remove the ejector too. It’s fine to keep the extractor claw.

    Screw your F/L die into your press until it contacts your shell holder. Now back the die out a couple of turns, so it won’t fully size all of the case back down to SAMMI spec as that’s too much.

    Now insert your bolt (minus the firing pin/striker and ejector you removed) and the handle should just flop down without any resistance.

    Take a piece of fired brass, lube it, place in press and size it. Remove brass, wipe lube off and place brass into your rifle’s chamber and gently close the bolt. If the bolt doesn’t fully close, or it closes with some force/resistance, the brass needs to be sized down further.

    Extract brass, lube and place in press. Turn die DOWN (so sizing the brass more) just a tad (0.01 or 0.02). Size the brass again. Now try it again in your chamber.

    Repeat just until your bolt will flop down like it did with no brass. This tell you that you’ve bumped your shoulder back just enough so the brass has minimal clearance but is guaranteed to chamber freely so you don’t get chambering issues. It’s also been sized just a minimal amount, no where near SAMMI spec. Use your calipers and Hornady headspace gauge to record the optimum headspace bump value.

    Ive found this to be the most accurate way of measuring my chamber headspace and minimum case bump required.

    There was an excellent and simple vid from Aron Wheeler (gunsmith) showing it all but I cannot find it on YouTube sadly.

    That makes sense also. Yes pretty simple.

  12. 19 hours ago, DeLaRue said:

    Hi....you bump the shoulders back by using either a full length sizing die, which as it infers resizes the whole case, including the neck, back to SAAMI spec, or a body die which resizes only the body of the case bumping the shoulders back but not resizing the neck. The further you screw the full length die down into the press relative to the shell holder it will resize more of the neck & bump the shoulders back further. Likewise the body die, the further you screw the die down into the press the more it will bump the shoulder back. You should be aware that with standard bottle neck cases what you are doing in fact is adjusting the headspace. You can tweak the amount of sizing by minor adjustments to the die. Moving a standard 7/8" die 1/8th of a turn is equal to 0.0089" of movement. However, once you have set your die into the press to the manufacturers instructions, some people like to adjust the bump by using Redding Competition shellholders to leave the die set as it is & adjust the bump/headspace accordingly with different size shell holders until the bolt locks down without any resistance with around 0.002"/0.003" clearance. They are sold in sets of 5 from +0.002" with incremental steps up to +0.010".........Whatever method you use it is best to measure what your cases relative to SAAMi specs measure once your brass has fire formed to your chamber 3-4 times. Then bumping back the shoulders circa 0.002" will ensure that you will avoid a "sticky bolt" & work your brass less extending your case life. There are many theories around this subject as I'm sure you will find with some saying that there is no evidence that over sizing your brass each time is detrimental to case life, but it just seems logical to me..... that's just my opinion for what it's worth.

    You did not say what type of die your fancy match die is?.......If it is say a Redding Type S or Competition die bushing die then you will have to purchase the appropriate size bushing to achieve the optimum neck tension for the calibre/brass you are using.

    Hope that helps.....


    yes it does,  thanks, makes sense

    Hornady match I think they are. Yes I’ve found the part numbers. I just need to measure my brass to work out was bushing I need.

  13. On 12/30/2020 at 9:37 AM, terryh said:

    As per PbG,

    ’just enough’ FL resizing is IMHO the way to go. ie size to suit your chamber in your rifle. No need to smash back the brass to SAAMI/CIP minimum specs. 

    I body size as a separate operation, just pushing the shoulder back a few thou.

    Cannot see any advantage or reason to size any more than this or to ‘not’ do this.

    T


    ok, lots talking about bumping the the shoulder back. How would one do that? 
    I take it I’d wind the die back further from the case holder, but how far?

    to be honest, I can’t be doing much wrong, I’ve been shooting the same brass many many times, it’s still going strong. In my 308 it groups very well probably more by chance than anything else.

    I need to spend time working a load for my 6.5. Although it’s performed well at 600 meters groups not great at 100. Not as good as my 308 anyway. So I need to experiment.


    I have a fancy match die for that but didn’t realise you had to buy a separate part for the neck tensions so I keep using my cheap Lee die. I suppose I need to look there  first before I look into bumping shoulders.

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