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gruntus

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Posts posted by gruntus

  1. Hi All,

    I contacted Sabatti support directly to get information on Torque settings for tightening down an STR action in to its Chassis System.

    They quoted 15 Nm (Front) and 14 Nm(Rear) which converts to 132 in lbs and 123 in lbs respectively.

    Anybody have any thoughts on the above? They sound a bit high and I would like to sanity check before (potentially) stripping a thread........  😱

    ATB and thanks in advance.

    🙂

  2. Hi All,

    I'm looking to change the stock on my PH 1200tx without spending a small fortune.

    I had enquired  with ProMag on their Archangel offering https://promagindustries.com/archangel-precision-stock-for-mauser-k-98-and-variants-black-polymer-includes-aa8mm-01-10-rd-with-a-5-rd-limiter-type-b-magazine/ which would also give me a magazine option as well.

    I enquired with ProMag on whether it would be suitable (PH based on a Large Ring Mauser Action) and got the following response "Sorry this will not interchange as this is set up for long actions in 7mm/8mm & 30-06 only. The Parker also has an extra safety that causes a fir issues as well........sorry sir"   which I thought was a bit off as I had believed it would fit based on it being a Mauser action and I dont mind (expect) having to fettle the stock for the Safety.

    Has anyone else fitted or seen a PH1200 to an Archangel before? 

    Any other ideas on what options I have without spending a small fortunate?

    Thanks in advance.

    Grant

  3. Hi Catch,

    It does leave a residue on it, I usually give then a wash in hot soapy water afterwards and then give them a good rub on a dry towel.  I've also used break cleaner and a towel before. I only do batches of 50 so it's not too much of a chore.

    Cheers

    G

  4. Hi All,

    I have a Winchester 94 AE with an XS Rail which looks similar to this IMAGE HERE and currently looking for a scope with long eye relief for use on Gallery Rifle circa 25 metre  ( .357 magnum).

    Does anyone have any experience with Long Eye Relief scopes and recommend any scopes suitable for my application? I'm only looking to use for internal club comps and assist my peepers when target shooting (not sure what to budget for yet either).

    Thanks in advance. 🙂

    G

  5. Hi Gents,

    Just a quick reach out to see if anyone has loaded for these and how comparable they are to 175gr SMK?

    I've been loading for 175 SMKs for a long time and bought some 175gr MME Wimbledon Match and only just starting on my load dev path. I've been using n150 for the 175 SMKs and wondered if anyone else has any observations on performance, loading similarities, powders and primer combos  etc?

    WRT Load specifics: Please don't post any recipes on here of course but please feel free to PM me to have a bit of dialogue.

    All the best and thanks in advance.

    G

  6. 5 hours ago, Ralpharama said:

    When I first started shooting, as a direct response to the moaning on this forum about muzzle brakes, I paid for a variation on my ticket for my .308 etc. for mods.  I then invested in a mod for my .308, all because I didn’t want the be the pariah it was suggested I would be on here should I use my Sabatti STR with the factory fitted brake. I then took it to a range and tried it out. In a very short space of time, despite the fat barrel, it got very hot and the moire effect on the sight made shooting impossible.  

    Hi Ralph, The STR Muzzle brake is a pepper pot design which doesn't seem quite as bad/intrusive to neighbours next to you as those that vent the gasses outwards (and sometimes backwards) from the flutes on the sides. 

    With regard to shooting with a mod and the resultant mirage, I use a mod cover and have a home made mirage band that I tie between the mod cover and the scope mount (same principle like this one). Its vey effective.

    HTH

    G

  7. For my beam scale I use a 16" x 12" granite slab (I can see one on top of two has two, flash git 😆), I "cement" it down with blue tack on the corners and use a "Wixey" digital angle gauge/level (Model WR365) to get it level on all planes.

    I use the same approach as 1066 above for looking at the beam scale and use a USB camera connected to a tablet which lets me look at at the magnified portion of the 0 on the scale at eye level which really reduces the fatigue on my peepers. 

    I also blue tack at the corners of the beam scale once I'm "zeroed" as the granite slab offers no traction for the feet and can be shifted easily by accident (I check the level of the granite and the zero of the beam scale every time - its all part of the rabbit hole that's known as "consistency" 😁).

    BTW none of these items are expensive 😋

    HTH 👍

    🙂

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