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lamp on the blink


nuttyspaniel

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I bought a lightforce lamp and remote kit from a chap, I installed the kit and all was working perfect! Now whilst on the way home tonight I decided to pull over and try and adjust the beam, the bugger was dead!! No prob came home changed the bulb still dead! I inspected the bulb I removed perfect! Ok lets change the in line fuse no need not blown but I tried another just incase still dead! A quick check of the wiring well the best I could muster with poor light all seems well! Any ideas on the cause of the light not working? Anybody had the same problem?

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about 8 inches down from the lamp head on the wire mine had a bit of heat shrink, this was covering 2 tabs with the lower wires soldered to them, mine broke in about 4 outings, pure dung.

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Cheers 223. How did you strip yours? Ive look at mine before we mounted it and it seemed to be a fixed housing with rivits and the remote switch looked fixed aswell I couldnt see a way to seperate the handle from the shaft.

 

 

John mine is a scope mounted one so you have probably done all i can advise you on didn't even no they done a remote mounted one sorry :lol:

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Yep been there, have got a couple of them and have found that when you pull on the flex, it is that thin if you were to strip it and have a look, that once you start bending it , it will fail in no time ;) , its a shame cuz there light is good, the other problem I found is that you cant up that far inside the handle to do any major wire changing :lol:

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The only other problem I can think of is in the switch, I replaced mine after about 6 months, it had worked loose inside and wasnt contacting anymore, but my switch had been slightly abused so I put it down to my own fault.

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The light force lamps are basically crap, thats why I never bought them after fixing plenty for others. The cable supplied is poor and too stiff for the conductor inside, the switches are known to fail and if you keep it on for long periods the bulb holder will melt too.

Having said all that the reflector is well designed and with the proper bulb gives a hell of a good beam :lol:

So to make it pretty well bomb proof the first thing is to change the cable for some good stuff and solder the joints properly.

The best cable is this http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=49&doy=11m3 they sell it by the metre and 3-4 mtrs should be plenty, I also fit a new fag lighter plug as well as they are cheap, I use the fused one with min led as if the main fuse goes it shows immediately and you are not fooling with the lamp when the car fuse has gone, http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?Module...54&doy=11m3

You should now have a good reliable light.

The switches are a bit weary, but there isnt a good replacement that fits I have converted some with a miniature relay so the switch only carries a tiny current and the relay carries the lamp current, they are tiny and fit in the lamp housing but it is a more involved mod, the above takes care of most problems and they do mail order so it is easy to get the bits.

Redfox

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The original wiring in the lightforce lights are have very brittle plastic insulating the wire inside as well as crap soldering.I cut the standard cable and soldered a standard household cable to the lamp with crocodile clip connecting it to the terminals on the battery this way nothing can brake or melt never had a prob with my 240blitz since :lol:

(actually johngalway broke the connection on one of the crocodile clips one night we were out-think he was jealous ;) )

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(actually johngalway broke the connection on one of the crocodile clips one night we were out-think he was jealous :P )

 

Solder, you call that soldering :lol:;):lol::o:o Must be a new process I hadn't heard of that doesn't involve actually doing anything :o

 

It was held together with blind hope and dodo spit :P

 

I've my own Blitz now with proper crocodile clips B):D

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Guest varmartin

We still call it Earth 308 ..... :lol:

 

The only problem with my lamp and Varminters has been the spring in the cigar lighter adapter.

( positive connection onto the fuse)

 

If it is used for prolonged periods it overheats and goes soft failing to contact....I fitted a heavy duty end...all done.

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A 240 will melt a fag lighter, it is not designed for that amperage and almost constant usage. Fit a DIN single pin plug and socket, designed to take 16 or 17 amps, a 240 draws just over 8 amps at 12 volts. That wont melt. Connect it straight to the battery with a fuse in the line. Not saying that is the problem in this case but it has been a problem to others in the past.

 

As it happens my 240 is also on the blink at present for the first time, no power getting to the socket yet the line fuse is fine, need to have a play with the truck when I get a mo.

 

A

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I have had so many problems with my lightforce, I have had the bloody thing catch fire, it has melted 3 cigar plugs, the inline switch I have replaced twice, the bit where the shrink tubing is I have had to repair 4 times and where the wire bends just before it goes into the lamp by the red plastic cover, it broke there a few months ago. A very good light when working but highly over priced :lol:;):lol:

Oh yeah! I have also had 3 fuse holders melt down and I have had to change them

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When I got my Striker, first thing I did was cut the lead above the switch and threw the rest away. I got some decent two core (think that's what it's called) cable and an inline dimmer unit. Cut all connections on the recharger etc and replaced them with my own. I use no fuses on my lamping kit but do have one on the recharger. No problems since because there's nothing to go wrong.

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Got the bugger!!! A bloody wire had broken in the roof lining!! My nephew and a days ferreting spring to mind little sh@@! He went back to the jeep out of the rain and the alarm was booming away every so often as I walked back I think little fingers were touching!! :)

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Guest varmartin

I for one did not realise you had a roof mounted rotating rig set up....

so not the lamps fault at all...better go get mine out the bin then :)

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