Vortex

It’s a joke that, bear in mind I had a 1 for 1 done in person on the day, new FAC printed at the Northern shooting show. 

They need to keep the vetting as S1 etc and change sales to S2.  Once you have firearms on your ticket it shouldn’t matter what the serial number is. 

Just do variations for additional firearms applied for. So if I wanted .338 that would have to be applied for, after that just sell and buy as you want and send in the notification 

On 2/10/2022 at 7:34 PM, Popsbengo said:

they are indeed - speaking from knowledge.  

Will second that, I use quite a lot of Facom kit and it’s very good quality. 

On 1/26/2022 at 5:49 PM, outlanda said:

I have an early edition factory remington X pro trigger and a rifle basix after market both very good - no issues, just avoid super light trigger on x pro mk1 as bump fire problems

I switched to a trigger tech trigger. Great setup, can’t fault it. 

Yes I shoot in comps, Military mainly. Other comps I just drop in and out of as and when. 
 

8 hours ago, Popsbengo said:

Buy quality components and minimise variables before setting about making crap a bit better.

Yes that’s the best bet I think. Just part of good fundamentals. How far you want to take it I suppose is down to your level of OCD

On 1/24/2022 at 1:26 PM, Frederick said:

Do shooters tend to reload or buy factory ?

Reload in most cases, you benefit in lower costs and more accurate ammo. 
 

On 1/23/2022 at 9:06 PM, Popsbengo said:

Yes, but why would the wall vary enough to matter?  We're talking about competent manufacturing with quality control,  there's all sort of issues with thicker/thiner brass in the forming process that would cause the manufacturer to need to control the material dimensions.  It's not a credible issue in my mind.

Volume variance is much more likely to be length, especially head to shoulder index.

Suppose it would depend on good quality components etc.  But it would change case capacity and so pressure changes if it’s not consistent.

whereas skimping on cleaning isn’t going to have the same effect on variations in pressure. 
 

Would a difference in case weight, so thickness of wall not have an effect on the internal volume. 

I have the M1917 and honestly prefer the 30-06 cartridge to .303.  Bit more recoil out of it but it’s an accurate cartridge.

Shoot mine out to 800 and it’s still an accurate rifle for over 100 years old. 

Find yourself a nice one and you won’t regret it. 

Regards,

Vortex
 

Good video, I agree with what he’s saying and I would say all of what he is saying is going back to fundamentals in Marksmanship, Loading your ammo, load development etc. 

But do all the extras like cleaning, batching brass and bullets by weight etc give that noticeable or in fact imperceptible edge that gives you the extra accuracy/consistency your chasing over just getting what I would say are the fundamentals which is what he describes in the video. 
 

I don’t know, If you are enjoying the shooting it’s all good.  
If your getting stressed and pissed off over it and start to loose enjoyment because of chasing the elusive perfect load which in fact could be just an error in another aspect of shooting maybe that’s the point at which you say ye all this extra effort in regards to loading isn’t really worth it and just stick to the basic stages.

That’s unless you sadistic and like to punish yourself then chase away. 

I would say the basics are quality components to eliminate inconsistencies that way.

powder charge as accurate as you can.

Assembled cartridge to the same dimensions COAL etc consistent. 

Basically so your velocity stays the same without getting to the point where, like you say diminishing returns are barely evidenced to the point where external factors play more of an issue.

Does cleaning the case really effect chamber pressure and so velocity. Doubt it, haven’t noticed it make an appreciable difference in consistency or accuracy. 
 

now I have seen quality components give out big dividends on consistency. 
 

I used 174gr MK7 pulled .303 bullets for the past 5 years as I had a huge supply. 
Ran out and switched to 174gr PPU and noticed increased velocity and importantly consistency in POI.  
I also tried Sierra but they didn’t give any more notable results and I would say less consistency than the PPU in terms of POI and fliers.( external factors perhaps?) 
Price is a good on PPU compared to Sierra too.

All the loading was kept the same apart from the bullet make and I sat it to the crimping line by eye in both cases. Just shy of it without a crimp. 
 

To me and I’m no expert good fundamentals give the best consistency regarding accuracy over all the extra stages  when you factor in external factors. 

Bang it in a ransom rest and you will probably see the dividends.

lie down with it unsupported and every principle of marksmanship will play far more of a factor in consistency and accuracy.

I think good marksmanship principles are lost in the chase of the perfect load and in many cases not learned in the first place and applied and you start thinking well I need to do more and more to my load. 

In many cases it will be down again to basic marksmanship principles not being applied as to why your accuracy and consistency is suffering. 

Again this I have seen when a lad I shoot with couldn’t get consistent POI. 
 I had a go with it and POI was consistent. After he said he was struggling with holding it steady because of an injury. 

Just my look at it any way. 
 

The way I see it is you will get so far with keeping your loading consistent so keeping velocity and other aspects consistent to provide accuracy. 
 

But how much more are you getting by doing all the extra bits and pieces compared to Someone who just does the basics to a good standard.
 

You will only see the difference if you take the human element out of it and shove the rifle in a ransom rest. 

Other than that I think human error and environmental effects will play more of a role in your accuracy/inaccuracy than adding all the extra steps to reloading over well carried out basics. 

1)Full length size 6.5creedmoor

2)clean primer pocket and chamfer neck no further case prep.

3)Prime Case

4)Powder weighed to 0.5grain accuracy I think that’s what the Lyman gen6 gives. 

5) seat bullet to length/check every 10. Not sure what accuracy I use. 
 

6) send it…..  Gives sub 2” at 600yd

same process for .375H&H

For my 30-06 the same but Seat the bullet to just under the crimp line visually. Don’t check length. 

.44 the same as 30-06 process except I flare the case. 
 

All are accurate for calibre and consistent 

Cheers, have to look into it 

Great looking No1. 
 

Where did you get the picatiny rail, I’m looking for one for a tropical in .375H&H so I can mount a red dot. 

Cheers,

vortex 

Great place to get any firearms related gear. 

Best prices and always willing to help.  

Glad I live about 5 mins away…..if I had less control my bank balance would hate me. 

Burn proof gear from the US do some really good ones. 
 

Had one shipped over a few years ago and it works great. 

Not cheep but it’s rated for full auto so works well for us over here. 

Well you just re opened this can of worms…….I’m going to watch from the shadows and see how things go.

Pssssst….Butches bore shine.

If you can get hold of the Carinthia waterproofs they were issuing to UKSF at one point they are good value second hand.  Pricey new tho.  

The pants have full length zips up the side so easy to get on and off with boots on. 
Even with full length zips and lying in a puddle they didn’t leak on me.

22 hours ago, Leeman said:

You can get an uprated spring which should give you a better release, also check the stock has enough clearance for the assembly.  I think I got a Darrell Holland item from Brownells.

Cheers will have a look at that and look at getting an updated spring 

Never had any problems with my 700, the only time I had problems was an after market trigger.  Rifle Basix one that fell apart inside. 
 

Now have a trigger tech, excellent trigger if your looking to upgrade and easy to install. 
 

Do get a bit of a sticky bolt release catch, the bit that engages the bolt itself not the button inside the trigger guard. 
 

But other than that no problems. 
 

7.2Gr of Tinstar with 200gr RNFP hard cast lead works well.  Tried 7 up to 8.4 I think and just left it at 7.2 as it grouped well and recoil wasn’t bad at all. 
8.4 felt more like full power loads. 

Tacttfool......like it. Yes it’s a military rifle and yes they are simple for a good reason. 
 

They may will have adjusted it too light but I would like to see the rifle taken apart and looked at by someone like yourself to see what the problem is. 
 

Might well be the dust in there but from the way I see many shooters manipulate the bolt , just as harsh as they do, I haven’t seen that happen unless like you say it’s been set too light or a fault in there somewhere. 

Going to be honest, people may not like the guy and the way he does his reviews but having watched it I wouldn’t be putting my money on one until Sig had done some sort of investigation. 
 

is there half the desert in there? Maybe but if it kicking off rounds after you pull the trigger or when you manipulate the bolt, in his case smacking  the bolt would you take it on the range and run it ragged.  

No thanks....just like you wouldn’t run a gun that you put a new trigger in and it was letting the trigger sear go when you do a bump test. 

There might be a mechanical issue in there somewhere and it’s not the dust and it’s a bit early to say recall as he could just have a duff rifle but there is an issue here somewhere. There are plenty of worse shooters out there and plenty of situations where it’s going to be handled far more harshly than these two are so if a bit of dust and yes I know the desert messes with 100% of everything down to your ball sack but We should be looking at this and taking note.

Bear in mind my 100yr old rifle has no issues at all with the trigger and this brand new one is doing this, come on we can’t just blame it on the local yokel.

Is it the user/conditions/faulty rifle.....can’t tell from that video but there is an issue somewhere  and if that trigger mech can’t stand bubba well it needs looking at.
 

Edit......I didn’t realise this forum edited your swear words so much. 

Probably just a custom engraving job.