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Pillar and Epoxy bedding job.


Guest varmartin

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Guest varmartin

I thought I would finish the modifications to my Sako stock seeing as Onehole made me a couple of pillars on his lathe.

 

These images shows the pistol grip after modification. It has really altered the Fit and Feel of this stock.

 

resizewizard5px1.jpg

resizewizard4fo6.jpg

 

This is the trigger guard area after fitting the aluminium pillars.

 

resizewizard3hq9.jpg

 

This is an image of the action area of the stock before the bedding was applied.

 

resizewizard1ur9.jpg

 

The action area of the stock was roughed out using a Roxxon (Dremel type tool ) in the area that I wanted to add Epoxy to.

I used KIWI shoe polish on all metal work as a release agent, and have to say it worked a treat.

I applied two layers of masking tape to the sides and back of the recoil lug to provide about 0.020 clearance and blocked all holes with wax to stop ingress of Epoxy.

PC7 two part Epoxy Resin was used to bed the action as it has a fibrous filler built in. Let set for 24 hours then removed stock screws and hoped it would come apart...and it did ! :lol:

 

resizewizard2xd8.jpg

 

Its not the best job in the world, but the action fits the stock like a glove now,

were as before it would move about a 1/16 inch at the chamber area and rear tang area in the stock.

I don`t know if it will shoot any better yet ,but it sure fits a lot better.

 

Martin

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Guest 308Panther

Umm....Next question.

What did ya use to reseal the wood that was worked on??

Even if covered by the action,untreated wood can still absorb moisture and swell or distort.

 

Nice job on the bedding and pics.....

 

308Panther.

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Guest varmartin

Sakoboomstick..Used a rotary sanding disc in a hand drill to alter the pistol grip, then by hand with glass paper on a short piece of bar . Finished it with fine wire wool.

 

Sealed the grain with stock finish and French polish..

 

Measure the stock bolt holes with a Vernier and go to B+Q or other DIY store and buy some ally rod off the shelf...get a foot or more for a few quid...Cut to length , rough up the outside and bond into the stock bolt holes...then ream the holes to allow just enough clearance for the screws.( A better job can be done if you have access to a hobby lathe like I did :lol:

 

Panther308...there was only a very small amount of bare wood left that did not get covered with Epoxy, not done it yet but before it gets chance to absorb moister I will treat with satin varnish.

 

Martin

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varmartins talents are simply endless!! not only can he shoot really well,fix the most complicated faults on the internal combustion engine,but now proves himself to be a bit of a "dab hand" at gunsmithing work as well!! what a handy chap to have around! :lol::lol::D:lol::lol::lol: ,only jocking martin,looks a really nice job indeed ,now about saami length......................!

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Nice to see some one having a go.Bedding is not a difficult job with experience, but can be daunting for anyone who,s not done it before. Can i add a tip or two?

Boot polish is fine, but unless you use clear, you have a black , brown, or oxblood polish to get rid of! :lol: I always use furniture wax, as its usually clear, and a little softer.The release agent from brownells works well, but can be a bugger to remove.

If you have access to a lathe, get a length of stainless steel, and make them a whole lot wider than those Martin, i wont use aluminium, unless i,m absolutely forced, because thin walled pillars, are virtually no stronger than the wood or fibreglass they are glued in. Drill the pillar holes as close to the screw diameter as possible [less space for bedding to get in] also this will centralise them the best, then drill them out to a larger size once everything has set. The idea of a pillar, is nothing touches it, apart from the action, and the floorplate, if the floorplate is bedded too [which it should be] the screw/bolt cannot actually touch the pillar.Great job mate, i,ll bet its made a difference.

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add my bit,

using boot waxes and similar can work but can also

go terribly wrong, why not use the correct stuff,

you lads don't stick a 243 into a 308 or?

This is a company that sell small quantities of really good stuff

for everything around epoxy, glass, carbon and so on.R&G

 

As a release agent I can recommend the following, works for epoxy,

silicone, polyester, even super glue.

Two part: first priming wax (No. 165115-1) after that drying,

paint the release agent PVA (No. 165110-0) This PVA when dried (5min) can

only be removed with water!!

PVA releases perfectly from the wax, works 100% even on threads.

 

This a job I did on my 223 with a flimsy thin hunting stock, stiffend up and

weatherproof with thick layers of Carbon, done wet in wet with the bedding.

Was not all trimmed yet.

cz223carbonbedding.jpg

 

By the way Martin, really nice job, Ive also got one of those

stocks and the hand just doesn't fit around right.

 

edi

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I thought I would finish the modifications to my Sako stock seeing as Onehole made me a couple of pillars on his lathe.

 

These images shows the pistol grip after modification. It has really altered the Fit and Feel of this stock.

 

resizewizard5px1.jpg

resizewizard4fo6.jpg

 

This is the trigger guard area after fitting the aluminium pillars.

 

resizewizard3hq9.jpg

 

This is an image of the action area of the stock before the bedding was applied.

 

resizewizard1ur9.jpg

 

The action area of the stock was roughed out using a Roxxon (Dremel type tool ) in the area that I wanted to add Epoxy to.

I used KIWI shoe polish on all metal work as a release agent, and have to say it worked a treat.

I applied two layers of masking tape to the sides and back of the recoil lug to provide about 0.020 clearance and blocked all holes with wax to stop ingress of Epoxy.

PC7 two part Epoxy Resin was used to bed the action as it has a fibrous filler built in. Let set for 24 hours then removed stock screws and hoped it would come apart...and it did ! :)

 

resizewizard2xd8.jpg

 

Its not the best job in the world, but the action fits the stock like a glove now,

were as before it would move about a 1/16 inch at the chamber area and rear tang area in the stock.

I don`t know if it will shoot any better yet ,but it sure fits a lot better.

 

Martin

Well done martin!!!!

It will be interesting to see how it shoots???

all the best darrel

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martin!!!

If you are interested i have got darrel hollands dvd on how to pillar bed a rifle???, I know it is a bit late now after you have done the job!!!!! but i think that you should have a look at it and i think that you will change your mined abouta few things?????? all the best darrel pm me if you are interested :)

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Lokks a tidy job Martin, echo Baldies sound advice on the pillars, the greater the diameter the less chance of crush - especially with aluminum - I use 5/8ths bar and drill the center to fit the action screws.

 

Andy

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Guest varmartin

Thanks for all the sound advise lads, I'm always keen to learn :(

 

The next Project is my Krieger barrelled 6 MM BR Remy + VLS stock...that one will get the full and improved bedding job with monster pillars to die for :(:D

 

Martin

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Guest varmartin
You say you altered the grip - did you recut the checkering - It looks absolutely superb.

 

I Have altered the grip area quite a lot over the standard grip, mostly in the area of my right thumb pad.

 

I now have a very nice `thumb up` grip and the trigger pull is a lot more linear .

 

The chequering was only slightly altered on the part that points to the shoulder pad, I just cleaned it up a bit , but did not need to re-cut any..!!

 

I will produce a DVD of the whole process when my camera man and sound technician come back from Scandinavia :D

 

Martin

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with the pillars,

may sound like a stupid question, how do you work out the length of them?

is it as simple as taking the stock off and screwing the screws back in and measure from base of the head to the action?

 

ive got the same rifle and have been considering doing the same

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Guest varmartin

The pillars were inserted into the stock from below ( with the action in place )and cut to length to be flush with the stock in-letting.

 

Martin

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Guest varmartin

Andrew..The rifle has always shot very well. averaging less than minute of angle with all loads tested ,

the best loads being 65 JLK`s and 70 Bergers which shot a number of groups of 0.8 inches @300 yards.

Varminter was a witness on those occasions.

 

I have routinely taken shots @300 -400 yards on bunnies with this rifle shooting 60 vmax and 75 Amax.

 

To be honest I modified the shape of the grip because Onehole had done his and it just felt better than mine.

 

I decided to bed the action due to the fact it did not fit to well, not because it did not shoot well.

 

I have got some testing to do to see if the mods have improved accuracy - time will tell.

 

Martin

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Martin if your rifle shoots .8 of an inch at 300yds and you only go shooting wildlife and not enter competions, why do you need to spend time and money, and at the end of the day how much more dead is your rabbit going to be?

 

After all it's a 223 and if it's so accurate at 300 then it willl still be good at 600 yds, how many shoot a 223 much further than that?

 

I'm only a dumb arse, so I don't understand why? But I'm sure someone will inform me that my 223 will kill something at 1000 or more yds. As some of us know there is a guy in this area that has shot a fox between the eyes at 1000 yds but I'm just a little sceptical.

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That's a shooter! Here we have an old saying: "Don't fix what ain't broke!" ;) but by the look of the work you certainly did no harm!

 

My CZ Hornet shot exceedingly well when I got it but, like you, I didn't like the fit of the action in the wood so I bedded it. I has shot no better since bedding but now at least I know that the action will not shift later on. Winter and summer it has held it's zero. Let us know how yours shoots, eh? ~Andrew

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Why?

 

 

because he can I guess - same reason everyone else strives to get best accuracy ;)

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Guest varmartin

The search for accuracy never ends ....it is an on going evaluation just like life.

 

Andrew...It wasn`t broke, and I didn't fix it...I just improved it :P I also enjoyed doing it .. :D

 

Nigel...some are quite happy with the groups they are achieving ..be it 1/4 inch @100yards or 2 inches @50yards and it has nothing to do with me needing anything. I do it cos I want to that is all. And I do enter competitions, every time me and ray go shooting its a comp ;)

 

I had a go at bedding the stock my self because the materials cost me next to nothing, I achieved exactly what I set out to do, I could not justify spending £250 on a pro job...as good as it would have been I'm sure. After all it is a very accurate little rifle anyway :lol:

 

Martin

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