Powder scales

[munkjack]

High can anyone suggest an accurate electronic scale for precise weighing that doesn’t cost the earth?

I don’t overly trust the weights on my auto trickler and it only goes down to 1 grain when I’m loading up it looks like a lot of powder goes in before the weight moves up.

Any info is very much appreciated.

[1066]

Unless you want to spend a reasonable amount on a digital scale - I would always opt for a beam scale and a set of grain checkweights.

[Popsbengo]

16 minutes ago, 1066 said:

Unless you want to spend a reasonable amount on a digital scale - I would always opt for a beam scale and a set of grain checkweights.

agreed,  it's not just about accuracy, precise repeatability is most important

[martin_b]

What I did was, buy a set of calibration weights. 1 to 10 grams say should cover most common loads. Ask someone with an A&D FX xxxx  to check them. Then buy 2 or 3 drug dealer/jewelry models off Amazon. Check them with the weights to see if they are accurate at a known temp and use them.

This is what I do,  I have a Lyman gen 6 powder measure (as Im lazy) but once it done its stuff I'll double check every 5th load on the other scale just to be sure. 

 

[Re-Pete]

I'd have thought consistent neck tension trumps tenths of a grain every time............

Pete

[Popsbengo]

1 hour ago, Re-Pete said:

I'd have thought consistent neck tension trumps tenths of a grain every time............

Pete

I agree however consistent neck tension and ±1/10gr repeatability is even better 😉

[Triffid]

I've tried out many electronic scales. 

The cheap ones  such as MTM Reloading scales aren't accurate nor precise enough . . .  so they'll weigh the same weight and give different results. Maybe 0.5 grain spread. I'd only use them for rough sorting cast bullets.

 More expensive ones can be much more accurate - typically sold on Amazon etc as 'milligram' scales or jewelers scales. BUT you can't use them to trickle-up, they just don't respond to tiny changes in the weight in the pan.

If you want to trickle-up accurately, then you need a 'force restoration' scale (as opposed the 'strain gauge' type above). These are the expensive A&D or Sartorius ones.

But you can get this accuracy (to the extent that you can weigh almost to the kernel) using a decent beam scale. Particularly if they've been tuned and fitted with a camera. It just takes a little longer though.

Triffid

[ds1]

To the OP, first thing I would do is chronograph what you have over a Labrador, Magnetospeed or other reliable chronograph. It’s only what comes out the barrel that matters. If it’s under 15fps extreme spread or so for 5 consecutive shots- I wouldn’t change a thing unless you are into ELR.

If it’s over 15fps -/+, start with new cases and repeat. Still over 15 fps, a set of A&D fx120i scales are sensitive to 1 kernel of N140 and MAY help. How you get the powder into the pot can be done with what you have and a manual (few quid) RCBS hand trickler. 
 

If  less than 15 fps or so spread with quality new cases ( Lapua, Sako, Norma), you might be looking at other variables such as neck tension and more. New cases will tend to show up case prep issues on older brass.
 

15fps is arbitrary- just my personal preference based off extreme vertical spread of shots at 1000m for what I need. Easy enough to play with any ballistic calculator and see what difference your actual extreme fps spread makes at the distance you want. If you work backwards from your desired fps extreme spread and measured what you actually have it will tell you if you need to refine anything or not.

It’s easy to recommend the fx120i scales for all the reasons Triffid explains  - I have them as many do but I would measure what you are getting ( chronograph) with the kit you have before spending any money. Hopefully you will be pleasantly surprised and find that whatever extreme fps spread you are getting falls within your requirements based on a ballistic calculator. 
 

Also spending on top end presses, scales, dies, brass and annealing kit there’s still a fair chance that it comes down to pure voodoo like primer preference.

[outlanda]

This is an interesting post so thank you to everyone contributing their experience. I have been looking at the Lyman gen 6 and now the Hornady auto charger only finding these for sale is half the equation. I would be interested in users experience. Thank you

Steve 

[Re-Pete]

Pure voodoo.........that just about sums up reloading. It doesn't matter how much cash you throw at it, you WILL have good days and bad 'uns at the range.

Pete

[Popsbengo]

Going back to the OP,  if there's a ±1gr variation as suggested on (eg say .308) 44gr that's a big deal: ± 2.3%.

'ds1' suggests ±15fps (again on .308 at say 2800fps) but that  is ±0.5% variation.

I think it's highly unlikely you can load to ±2.3% and expect to see less than ±0.5% in MV.

I suggest either get a good balance-beam scale or a decent lab scale (I spent £150ish on lab scales and get excellent repeatability) and buy some calibration weights (eBay).  Set up in a temperature stable environment with no drafts and suppress vibration, I use a marble slab on spikes.  You will see good results providing other factors, especially neck tension, are managed well.

I get very satisfying results at the range.

[ds1]

Pops, I don’t think the OP says accuracy is 1 grain but that the balance ‘goes down’ to one grain - I read that as minimum dispensable amount. It sounds like the OP doesn’t know the actual accuracy of the balance but would like to. An A&D fx 120i or better will do that of course but without one, putting rounds over a chronograph is going to indicate if the juice is worth the squeeze or not.
 

On fps…. a 15 fps ES at 1km with 224V gives about 20cm vertical dispersion so around 8 inch in old money. Acceptable for me but probably quite depressing for F Class shooters.

[Popsbengo]

5 hours ago, ds1 said:

Pops, I don’t think the OP says accuracy is 1 grain but that the balance ‘goes down’ to one grain - I read that as minimum dispensable amount. It sounds like the OP doesn’t know the actual accuracy of the balance but would like to. An A&D fx 120i or better will do that of course but without one, putting rounds over a chronograph is going to indicate if the juice is worth the squeeze or not.
On fps…. a 15 fps ES at 1km with 224V gives about 20cm vertical dispersion so around 8 inch in old money. Acceptable for me but probably quite depressing for F Class shooters.

I read "going down to one grain" to mean a resolution of 1gr increments.   Maybe the OP could clarify please?

[Nick 53]

I use Hornady Balance beam Scales, after throwing a charge from my powder dropper which is under my desired weight and trickle my charge into the pan of scale 

im only loading 30 cases per competition 

nick