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Locktite 277 on self timing brake?


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Has anyone tried using locktite 277 on a self timing break to ensure 100% repeatability? I mean on the brake adjustment threads, not the barrel thread obviously.

i swap between brake and moderator and impact shift has been slightly different by 0.2 mils, i know its small but if it could be zero change each time that would be better. Mod to brake had been 0.3 or 0.5 mils elevation and 0.0 or 0.2 mils windage, im guessing this might be due to not clocking it 100% the same each time.

thoughts/experience of this please 

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Although not same application, I use Flexbar Rocksett for muzzle brakes. That’s on the threaded portion barrel vs brake not on the adjustment threads like you. That said, if you want to lock the adjustment threads in place and don’t have to worry..... I would highly recommend it. I used it for my ASE bore lock brakes. Everything else has come loose with heat before. 
 

I know there are some locktite’s that are temperature stable enough to deal with suppressors / muzzle brakes. However you then need high heat / high torque to break the bond. With Flexbar rocksett just soak the offending item in hot / boiling water for 20 mins or so then it just screws off with hand tools no problem. 

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If you’ve got a Kestrel, you could create gun records with offset values for when you switch between mod and brake. I do that for one of my barrels (brake vs mod) and do it for the 3 other calibre barrels I use (6.5x47, .30-06 and .338NM). I set my zero for one barrel and once figured out my zeros for the other barrels, I record the offsets so Kestrel gives me the correct drop/windage without needing to do any on the fly calculations.

Failing that, get yourself an Area419 Sidewinder brake. It’s comprised of two parts; brake and adaptor. Adapter just screws to barrel to stop. The brake then screws to the adaptor which has a cone shape, allowing the brake to essentially lock in to the corresponding cone inside the brake. It does this by pushing the two cones together, locking them, once you’ve timed it. The outside lock ring on the brake holds it in place, but even if it did come loose (hasn’t yet with hundreds of .338NM through it) the cone shaped locking interfaces actually keep everything nice and tight. Sure, it’s down to you to time it. You could use part round rod (in the end of the brake) which turns to a flat portion. Stick a bubble level on the flat and another bubble level on the receiver, elevation turret...whatever, and then you’ve got a more true alignment...more so than just eyeing it perhaps.

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  • 4 weeks later...
14 hours ago, pengo said:

How are you getting on with your brake? Is it still "locked" in place?
Cheers.

Paul

Yep, its now set up for that rifle and goes on and off perfectly and 100% repeatable. Stuck 100 rounds down it with the RMPRA last week, no problems. Rifle now cleaned and ready  for next outing, brake will go back on 100% the same.

dont know if i’ll ever get to be able to adjust it again, i guess that will be the problem of the next rebareller, whoever that may be....

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3 hours ago, lapua said:

Yep, its now set up for that rifle and goes on and off perfectly and 100% repeatable. Stuck 100 rounds down it with the RMPRA last week, no problems. Rifle now cleaned and ready  for next outing, brake will go back on 100% the same.

dont know if i’ll ever get to be able to adjust it again, i guess that will be the problem of the next rebareller, whoever that may be....

250C and disassemble hot.  That temperature won't adversely affect the barrel either

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18 minutes ago, lapua said:

Its not on the barrel

It's on the brake then I guess - whatever it's on if it's steel Loctite 277 can be 'broken' by heating to 250C and disassembled hot.

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