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1000 yds


kindwarf

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Hi guys.

i have had a problem with my scope at long distance, for years I have shot the English XX match at Bisley and used a 6.5 x 55 Swede with a good Japanese scope called an Optima, I hade it and it has worked and adjusted well for about ten years, it gave good elevation to over 1000 yds with a 20moa rail. this year I thought I would up my game and put a Sightron lll on my rifle same rail same rings, thinking I had a much better scope went to 900 yds raised the elevation from 600 to 900 yds and the scope locked out at 900, luckily it was dead on at that distance And I got a good score, but there was nothing left for 1000 so I had to hold over to get them in the 5. The question is why wasn't there enough adjustment on what I thought was a long distant scope also how would you experts out there rectify this problem.

Many Thanks.

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12 hours ago, kindwarf said:

Hi guys.

i have had a problem with my scope at long distance, for years I have shot the English XX match at Bisley and used a 6.5 x 55 Swede with a good Japanese scope called an Optima, I hade it and it has worked and adjusted well for about ten years, it gave good elevation to over 1000 yds with a 20moa rail. this year I thought I would up my game and put a Sightron lll on my rifle same rail same rings, thinking I had a much better scope went to 900 yds raised the elevation from 600 to 900 yds and the scope locked out at 900, luckily it was dead on at that distance And I got a good score, but there was nothing left for 1000 so I had to hold over to get them in the 5. The question is why wasn't there enough adjustment on what I thought was a long distant scope also how would you experts out there rectify this problem.

Many Thanks.

Which scope is it in the S111 range?  If I remember, the 8-32 has about 70MOA adjustment - but of course you would lose half of this on mounting on a 'zero' MOA rail but, you have a 20MOA rail so I would expect around 55MOA adjustment available. 

Assuming you are running your 6.5 Swede at reasonable velocity - then around 30MOA should take you from 100 to 1000 yards. Something is amiss.

Yes, a set of Burris Signature rings would solve the problem - but there shouldn't be a problem - unless maybe you are running a fixed power 36x scope with one-inch tube?

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H i Vince its Tiny from Slawit, 

As I said before I cant make 1000yds, the problem I have is because of my size and the long stock i need the throw back mounts to get eye relief.

please see the photos, I counted the clicks on the scope and from top to bottom and there was 424 1/8 inch clicks which i think is 53 minute20200914_143700.thumb.jpg.38a78001dd7cbd5611919c68dc767300.jpg

20200914_143054.jpg

20200914_143725.jpg

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  • 4 months later...

I believe your S111 10-50 x 60 only has 50 moa adjustment. (as you have found out) If you're optically centered at zero you should have about 25 moa +20 moa on your rail - so 45 moa total. That should get you out to 1000 yds. If not, then as Vince and Pete have said - a set of Burris rings with inserts will do the job. I have a Savage F-12 6.5-284 with an S111 8-32x56 with a 20moa rail and use the Burris rings.

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OK - 53 MOA - half that and add 20MOA for the tapered rail - leaves you around 47 MOA - which should be plenty to get you out to 1000 yards from 100 yd zero.  I can only think that you are using a lot of adjustment just to get a 100 yd zero and there is not enough left for 1000 yds,

With a 6.5 Swede and a 140gn bullet doing 3000fps you should only need about 25 MOA frpm 100 to 1000 yds.  Something is clearly amiss.

Obviously you can't check at the moment but when you can, zero the rifle at 100 yds - then see how much MOA you have left - note you need to be watching the reticle move as you count the clicks - you might be able to keep 'clicking' after the ret. has stopped moving.

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Are the rings on the right way around?  And do they have any cant in them?. I ask as I usually see cantilever mounts with the cantilever towards the front ( for ar15s). I have no experience with the product you are using - it’s just an observation from the picture - the rail obviously has a 20 degrees cant in it but I cannot tell from the pic if the scope is sitting parallel to it.

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David may be on to something regarding the cantilever mount 

 

The scope looks along way rearward too 

Unless the ringset manufacturer advises otherwise - I’d try mounting the rear ring set to the front and rotate it 180 degrees 

 

Obviously move the current front ring to the rear 

keep the rings as far apart on the rail and scope as possible 

As previously advised you should have more than enough to get to 1000

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Thanks for the prompt replies guys. i have to keep the mounts in the same position as I'm a big bloke and had my stock custom made so it fits me, so I need the eye relief, As far as 'I'm aware Burris dont do throw back mounts, the scope is still set on maximum elevation which is coincidently dead center at 900 yds  so if I set it back to 200 yards my zero and see what there is left, as Vince said I may have used up to much adjustment to zero it. The last scope was an Optima a old Japanese scope of good quality that's all ways  shot very well but I thought I update, when that scope was zeroed at 100 yards and it only had about three minutes left before it bottomed out so when I can get back on the range i will have to experiment. thanks again guys stay safe. 

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i;m afraid they arn't spacers the stock is molded in one piece, I asked the guy who built it to make me a stock that was a Mc Millan front end with an AI ambidextrous back end because I am left handed and because I have long arms and were the trigger was i needed it long on the stock to be comfortable. To make it even more difficult the rifle is a 1972 BSA CFT with 3 action screws so picking up another stock is not an option.

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