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I was looking through dolphin precision engineering site and noticed these unimounts..

I'm not big into scope rings and mounts and had no I deer what a unimount is..!!

Can someone care to enlighten me 🤙

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My understanding is that the mount is one singe piece, which bolts/clamps to the rifles action and the scope rings are then bolted to that single, solid platform. This keeps the two scope rings perfectly aligned to each other and offers a very stable platform.

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Their unimount is a single piece mount, meaning it is machined from one piece of metal. This type ensures that the two rings are true to each other as they do not rely on the rifle mounting points to be true and the person fitting them to have done so correctly. If you fit two piece mounts you should use a fitting kit to check they are true to each other once fitted to the rifle rail or points. This stops the rings being at slightly different angles which could bend your scope and leave marks on the tube. The fitting kit has two solid metal cylinders which are both turned down to a point at one end. You place one in each ring to make sure that the points come together correctly. You can then lap the rings to improve the fit further, this is placing a cylinder across the fitted rings and sanding them a little. Then when your scope is placed in the rings you know, A that is true and B that you have a consistent cylindrical surface to clamp on to your scope. If you are fitting to a dovetail rail the single piece mounts normally provide a greater surface area to get hold of the rail with, although the dolphin company ones are similar to two piece mounts in terms of contact area. Some mounts use a recoil lug to prevent the scope mount from moving during recoil, or a picatinny slot which negates this benefit.

The process for two ring mounts if you are interested.

https://youtu.be/8rFOtmWqBUI?t=174

Basically it makes it a little easier to fit a scope although single piece mounts can benefit from lapping as well I think and they can obscure your breach if they don't suit your action on bolt actions. They also limit how you position your scope as they are a fixed distance apart which may affect how you can mount the scope for the correct eye relief.

Matt

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Some thoughts:

The so called alignment kit demonstrated in the clip is poor.  Two cone tips can be point to point and still out of alignment.  Parallel faces, a clock gauge and feelers or slips are the correct engineering solution.  Lapping crappy rings fitted to a 'run of the mill' rifle with dovetails may still have some value but engineering precision has improved.

There's absolutely no need to lap a well made unimount, all that will do is increase the diameter of the clamps and remove the coating.  Tier One, Spuhr, Vortex and other manufacturers advise against lapping.

A properly fitted quality picatinny rail should stop rings or a mount moving under recoil.

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Thanks for replies..

TBH my favourite rings are the optilock sako and tikka rings. A solid fixing too the action with no farty little screws holding on the pic rail. Bolted strait too the action with recoil lugs and tapered dovetail with the inserts. Too much of the fancy stuff around that just cost alot of money. I've never had an issue with optilocks.

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21 minutes ago, No i deer said:

Too much of the fancy stuff around that just cost alot of money. I've never had an issue with optilocks.

You were unaware of what a unimount was a day ago but you now know there is too much fancy stuff and it costs a lot.  Progress  😁

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I've seen other mounts like spur mounts etc but wasn't aware of a unimount pops. Like I said my knowledge on this stuff is limited that's why I asked 😉. Seen stuff that was of no real intrest as it is expensive aesthetics goodies 😁

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I think one key reason you don’t see my F class shooters with unimounts is weight. The good ones are big, chunky and weigh a fair bit...being a single piece of milled aluminium.

Whilst the weight isn’t helpful in F class, what is helpful in other disciplines is the extra rigidity unimounts offer, in particular additional stiffness to the action (especially so if the action has an integrated pic rail, not a bolted on one). Weight also helps towards dampening recoil. A unimount will also go towards protecting scope, rings and pic rail if dropped onto a hard surface more than just single rings. Rings on their own could bend or twist where they mount to the rail. Harder to do with a unimount.

Some unimounts have a QD feature (like my Era-Tac), making it easier to take on and off repeatedly. I think you can get single rings that are QD, but I think it would be a lot harder getting things properly lined up and concentric.

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I've added some weight to my f open KRG whiskey 3 stock so it helps with the torquing. If I had a 1.250 parallel barrel I'd be still under ok. I think my fairly recent barrel is a tad heavier than my older barrel being it's about 1 inch at the muzzle and still 1lb and a half under the limit. A spur mount would be an expensive weight add on 😅. I'd rather spend the money on more bullets and powder 👍.

The spur mount would stiffen up my Borden timberline action would be a good thing because if I over tighten a fraction it affects the bolt running smoothly.. back the action screw off a fag paper and it runs sweet again..

I've been looking at torque wrenches of late so I know what I'm torquing it too..

Bicycle wrench sets look the best option so far 

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48 minutes ago, No i deer said:

The spur mount would stiffen up my Borden timberline action would be a good thing because if I over tighten a fraction it affects the bolt running smoothly.. back the action screw a fag paper and it runs sweet again..

I've been looking at torque wrenches of late so I know what I'm torquing it too..

Bicycle wrench sets look the best option so far 

It suggests to me your action isn't bedded fully if torquing up the action screws makes the action bend (even a thou or two) so the bolt binds.

If you're after quality, the Tenge Tools 1/4" drive torque wrench is quite good  - Screw Fix about £50.  I also have a Wera torque driver for low settings - excellent quality.

By the way, the manufacturer is "Spuhr" Swedish company I think.

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KRG whiskey 3 stock is a aluminium vblock chassis..

It may need some pillars or the full works..

My remmy action must be much stiffer as I've never had that issue with my 6.5x47 in the AICS stock or it has the perfect fit

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1 hour ago, Popsbengo said:

It suggests to me your action isn't bedded fully if torquing up the action screws makes the action bend (even a thou or two) so the bolt binds.

If you're after quality, the Tenge Tools 1/4" drive torque wrench is quite good  - Screw Fix about £50.  I also have a Wera torque driver for low settings - excellent quality.

By the way, the manufacturer is "Spuhr" Swedish company I think.

Actually, it just sounds like his screws are a bit too proud.  A couple licks with a file to shorten them a mite, and he'll be fine.  KRG chassis are known to right on the hairy edge of stock action screws, and in some cases one or both have to be replaced.  Remmy clones are 1-4"-28 (just like the parent), so pretty straight forward to replace if needs be...

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I have a spare set of remmy action screws I could try.. thanks for that tip MPM1 👍

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52 minutes ago, MarinePMI said:

Actually, it just sounds like his screws are a bit too proud.  A couple licks with a file to shorten them a mite, and he'll be fine.  KRG chassis are known to right on the hairy edge of stock action screws, and in some cases one or both have to be replaced.  Remmy clones are 1-4"-28 (just like the parent), so pretty straight forward to replace if needs be...

yes, that's a better suggestion

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1 hour ago, No i deer said:

I have a spare set of remmy action screws I could try.. thanks for that tip MPM1 👍

Glad to help. :)

I'm assuming you're familiar with trimming screws (split nuts, vice and file?).  I'll go grab a pic with the phone and add it here in a minute...

Just use a hack saw and split a couple nuts.  Then thread them on the action screw.  Clamp in a vise so the end is facing up, and take a few threads off with a file (helps if you round the edges a bit).  Then thread the split nuts off to clean up the threads.  

Pretty straightforward for those not familiar with the process...

Screw cutting.jpeg

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nice to see someone doing it properly 😃

I hate to see the use of cutting dies or taps to clean up threads.  A good set of split nuts and slotted screws should be in every engineers toolkit

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2 hours ago, MarinePMI said:

Glad to help. :)

I'm assuming you're familiar with trimming screws (split nuts, vice and file?).  I'll go grab a pic with the phone and add it here in a minute...

Just use a hack saw and split a couple nuts.  Then thread them on the action screw.  Clamp in a vise so the end is facing up, and take a few threads off with a file (helps if you round the edges a bit).  Then thread the split nuts off to clean up the threads.  

Pretty straightforward for those not familiar with the process...

Screw cutting.jpeg

Thank you.

I will get around to it over the next few days 👍

I will compare the screws before I take any threads off just incase the other ones I have are shorter.

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Hi MPM1

Out of intrest how did you come to the conclusion the screw was too long and how is shortening the screws a few threads going to help..??

Thanks NID

 

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As you tighten the screw (the forward one), you said your bolt began to bind.  This happens when the screw is too long and ends up protruding in the lug recess of the receiver (typically where the forward action screw is drilled and tapped).  If you wish to tighten the receiver into the stock/chassis at a certain recommended value, but the bolt is binding, then the screw is ever so slightly, too long.  You'll need to shorten it slightly so it doesn't protrude when the action is tightened down into the stock/chassis.

The rear screw can do the same to the bolt body in some actions (where the action screw is not in the tang, but further forward, in the bolt raceway).

It's a fairly common occurrence when folks start swapping things around, and tolerances begin to stack.

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BTW, the same thing can happen with certain actions and their scope mounts (like Savage rifles) where the forward screw is too long (one of the four screws is shorter for this reason), and can protrude enough into the lug recess to prevent the bolt from turning/closing the breech.

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Ok thank you sir..

I will have too source some nuts first..!!

This will save messing around pillar or fully bedding hopefully 👍

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I had my action screws out and filed the front screw down a bit..

It could possibly go in to far and touch the barrel chamber..

I tightened it up pretty tight after and the bolt didn't bind so this may have done the trick. The next time I take a look I will put some marker pen or something on the end of the screw and see if any of it rubs off on where it could touch that way I will know if I've licked enough off..!!

Thanks for that top tip 😁👍

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