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Tempilaq or no?


foxyloxy

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Hi folks.

I'm after ordering my first annealer from Raptor Calls on here.

My query is this. Do i use tempilaq as a proper temperature indicator? After scouring the web I'm getting conflicting information (strangely enough).

Do i go for stopping the heat just as the flame turns orange, do I go for 650 tempilaq below the shoulder or do I rain the lights off and stop the heat as the case mouth starts to glow?

Thanks in advance.

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Hi, I am using Tempilaq Temperature Indicator 750 and paint from the case mouth,  neck to the middle of the body of the brass. When the paint starts to get black in the area around the neck & shoulder, it is enough heat. Never bring the brass to Clow - over annealing! You should take 5-8 brass before you get to the correct results. Greetings from Germany Frank 

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Benchrest (similar system) recommends Tempilaq 650 on the (outside) neck/top shoulder,and  then  heat til turns black-note seconds taken at that torch setting and check a couple. That anneals properly. But even more important (safety) is not to overheat the lower case-so  also recommends Tempilaq 400 there,and make sure it does not change - seriously weakens the  brass. For a few pence,do it right-forget 'glows in the dark' and suchlike witchcraft-it's a safer science with Tempilaq!

gbal

 

 

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I am going through the same stage, I have just ordered a machine from lubo, 

Ordered my gas torch and now just tempilaq. I have been doing a fair bit of reading up / YouTube and the general idea is 750 on the inside of the case neck. So that's what I'm going with I think. 

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I've found the high temperature Tempilaq on the inside of the case-neck method difficult to read / use. I moved instead to a method I saw on one of these US outfits that are always testing accessories and techniques and make You Tube videos of their work. It was also used by Hornady in its simple annealer kit for use with an electric drill when it was available.

Paint a ring of the low temp paint, can't remember the setting off the top (white one) on the upper case body with its top edge around a quarter inch below the case-body to shoulder junction, then the usual short vertical 'safety' stripe above the extractor to ensure that excessive heat is not going down to the lower case. When the top ring just melts, the neck and shoulder temperature is about right as shown by using the green high temp (750-deg?) paint inside the neck. 

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If you can get the inside of the neck shiny clean either by wet cleaning or simply putting a rat-tail file down a sacrificial case to remove carbon then painting 750 Tempilaq on the inside will be easy to see as it changes colour from cold greeny/ blue.

Putting it on inside means it is easier to remove for retries than if its burnt onto the outside due to direct flame contact....you can also be sure that the target temperature was actually reached vs just burnt by flame contact.

Same 450 degree indicator line down side of case as per above.

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Provided you are careful to get flame placement exactly the same each time.

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Flame placement is pretty much easy to get consistent, tip of flame about 4mm from neck, use a dud case to set up, set digital timer for dwell time, look for slight colour change as per previous case did when using tempilaq, adjust as necessary, usually plus or minus a bit. Much easier if your annealer gives you an display of actual dwell time rather than a basic motor speed controller with no feedback I admit. 

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Flame temperature is the main factor.......if  your gas pressure /supply is  regulated then ok,rather than just from a variably emptying can.

 Otherwise,

Best check with (external) dab of Tempilaq-for a few pennies.

Inadequate anealing may not show,but it's rather counterproductive (remember different make cases may vary metalurgically too and need a Tempilaq check).

(otherwise,that 'warm glow' of job well done satisfaction,might be  a bit  unreliable.)

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  • 1 month later...

I too use the Templiaq 750f on the INSIDE of the neck from the same reason DaveT notes.

Ensure neck is clean and paint Templiaq. Leave a minute or two to dry and spin up the annealing machine.

i find shining a bright handheld torch into the case neck aids with seeing the green Templiaq change to black.

i remove from the heat the moment the Templiaq darkens..just a smidge before it goes black as it stops the case from going beyond 750-800f and over annealing.

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