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spiral fluting a sako bolt


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hi all

 

i got the action and bolt out this morning and had a good look at the problem.(as red fox says)i took the ejector out and i rounded the bar off so it now rides in and out the flutes, but if i am going to do this for others i will have to solve the problem another way,so i have asked the machinist to make me another cutter with radius sides, and all so to ramp the begging of the flutes, this should aid the ejector in and out the flutes,as i will only have the bolts sent me,and will not be able to alter the ejector.

i have sent the original bolt and another bolt to be done and i should have them back tomorrow,so i will take some photos of her and let you lot see if you still like them.

any other type of bolt and there should be no problem,

well we will see what tomorrow brings,i can not see a problem this time and am 99% sure this will fix the problem.

 

i do hop so as i think they look very very nice :D

 

ATB

Colin B)

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If you wish Col

 

my BAT tactical action has a similar set up for ejection (ejector located in the action and the bolt has a slot to acommodate it) the bolt is also fluted but runs back and forth ejecting cases no probs.

 

 

I can send some pics via e-mail of the inside of the action and bolt slots if you want.

 

I havent done much with 75's so cant compare the BAT to them .

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any idea of prices for the sako 75 flutes

 

 

hi

should be £60 if we don't have to do to much to get it to work flawlessly.

but lets see what tomorrow brings, as i have a good feeling it will be all right on the night :D

ATB

Colin B)

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If you wish Col

 

my BAT tactical action has a similar set up for ejection (ejector located in the action and the bolt has a slot to acommodate it) the bolt is also fluted but runs back and forth ejecting cases no probs.

 

 

I can send some pics via e-mail of the inside of the action and bolt slots if you want.

 

I havent done much with 75's so cant compare the BAT to them .

 

hi ronin

 

at the moment i think we will have the fix tomorrow,

but thank you very much for the offer,

 

ATB

Colin

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well i have just received the re worked bolt,and she functions flawlessly.i have even swapped the ejector over from a different sako to make sure it was not a combo of re shaped ejector,and the change in flutes.

here are a few pictures of the re worked bolt.

 

P1010189.jpg

 

you can see in this shot the ramp in to the flute and the ramp out,it is a little harder to see the sloping sides,but they are there,

this one will be a one off as we had to re work the bolt, i will post some photos of the next 2 bolts when i get them back from the machine shop. but i have included a test bar photo a bit later on in my post

P1010190.jpg

 

now one in the action,sorry the barrel is not on yet,but we had to solve the bolt first.

 

P1010186.jpg

 

P1010187.jpg

 

As i think i mentioned in a different post i had a couple of test bars done first,

this one was done with a home mad cutter

 

P1010192.jpg

 

and this one was done with a bull nose cutter,and is the one i have chosen for the sako bolts, and probably every type of bolts i do from now on,

 

P1010191.jpg

 

 

so there she is what do you lot think to the bolts, i am a bit biased but i really like mine :blink:

 

ATB

Colin :ph34r:

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sweet i am up for one

 

some questions first

 

do you need just the bolt or action as well?

 

also i was going to ask about reproofing?

 

where do i send it ?

 

how long will it take?

 

also can you do rethroating as well?

 

 

 

cant wait ...............awesome

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sweet i am up for one

 

some questions first

 

do you need just the bolt or action as well?

 

yes just the bolt with the firing pin and shroud removed

 

also i was going to ask about reproofing?

I'm looking in to it

 

where do i send it ?

pm me for details

how long will it take?

 

i can not do any this week coming but can do some the week after

 

also can you do rethroating as well?

 

what do you need rethroating??

 

cant wait ...............awesome

 

 

ATB

Colin :D

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hi there chaps

 

 

just got these 2 back, and one is a long action from a .270 win iv got to re barrel,(just waiting for the MC Milan stock

and the barrel to land,and the other is on another short action and both work flawlessly, so there is no problems now with any of the bolts,be they sako or other makes.

 

a couple of photos to wet your appetite

short action bolt from a 308

P1010196.jpg

long action bolt from .270 win

P1010197.jpg

long action put together and awaiting the above stuff

P1010195.jpg

short action

P1010194.jpg

 

ATB

Colin :D

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Anybody know how to take apart a Sako 75 Mk IV bolt without all the bits going ping across the room as happened to my mate with his Manlicher :D

 

Do I need special tools?

 

 

 

yep i am noobish in that direction

 

col if i send you the whole bolt could you strip it for me as i aint to confident stripping myself ?

 

i am only a gamekeeper so not much up top !!!!!

 

 

are you talking a weeks turnaround on doing them.

 

i have a .243 ai which is i think chambered for a 55 g bullet as i shoot mostly 80 g nosler the tips are seating low in to the case i was thinking if poss i could get it rethroated to seat the tip a little longer out of the case .......but i might be wrong

 

 

thanks mate for your help so far

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Anybody know how to take apart a Sako 75 Mk IV bolt without all the bits going ping across the room as happened to my mate with his Manlicher :D

 

Do I need special tools?

 

 

Hi -

Having removed the bolt from the rifle, the firing pin assembly is removed by turning the bolt shroud counter-clockwise until its locking notches are disengaged from the bolt body and the bolt shroud springs backwards. Having done this, the bolt shroud and firing pin assembly, with the spring and spring guide,can be removed from the bolt. Normally it is not necessary to disassemble the bolt any further for cleaning purposes.Having cleaned the bolt, reverse the order to reassemble. If the bolt is provided with the KEY CONCEPT , it should be unlocked (red dot is visible) when reassembling the bolt. First insert the firing pin assembly, with the spring and spring guide, into place with the bolt shroud so, that cocking piece is on the opposite side of the bolt handle and the locking notches of the bolt shroud are fitted into position at the rear end of the bolt body.

The bolt shroud is then pushed against the bolt, and simultaneously turned clockwise, until the cocking piece cam stops in the notch before the cocking slope.

 

 

i hope this helps

 

ATB

Colin :D

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Those look very good indeed Col and glad the radiused cutter did the business. It makes a very nice finish to a custom or standard rifle and done in the UK too.

I would not expect it to need re-proofing as it does not affect the pressure bearing part of the bolt, which is the face and the lugs, the body only allows the bolt handle to rotate the lugs in the action, so it can not affect the bolts ability to do that unless you machined it all away until it broke through.

Well done a very nice mod indeed.

Redfox

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No requirement in law to reproof, as said before, as the work is not on the pressure bearing area. However, and i,m sure Col already knows this, the bolt is technically a proofed part of the firearm, and as such, cannot be left with a machinist who is not an RFD to work on, the work has to be carried out in the customer presence.

 

They are lovely Col, and really set the gun off as it is, bet it will look smashing when its in a new stock etc.

I,m assuming its a 4 axis miller, he has?

We are looking to buy a new miller this year, and will be going this route if one can be found thats reasonable.

On the subject of fluting...is it just me that gets a hard on when i see the helically fluted schneider barrels? :D

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No requirement in law to reproof, as said before, as the work is not on the pressure bearing area. However, and i,m sure Col already knows this, the bolt is technically a proofed part of the firearm, and as such, cannot be left with a machinist who is not an RFD to work on, the work has to be carried out in the customer presence.

 

They are lovely Col, and really set the gun off as it is, bet it will look smashing when its in a new stock etc.

I,m assuming its a 4 axis miller, he has?

We are looking to buy a new miller this year, and will be going this route if one can be found thats reasonable.

On the subject of fluting...is it just me that gets a hard on when i see the helically fluted schneider barrels? :D

 

 

yes dave it is just you :D:D

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No requirement in law to reproof, as said before, as the work is not on the pressure bearing area. However, and i,m sure Col already knows this, the bolt is technically a proofed part of the firearm, and as such, cannot be left with a machinist who is not an RFD to work on, the work has to be carried out in the customer presence.

 

They are lovely Col, and really set the gun off as it is, bet it will look smashing when its in a new stock etc.

I,m assuming its a 4 axis miller, he has?

We are looking to buy a new miller this year, and will be going this route if one can be found thats reasonable.

On the subject of fluting...is it just me that gets a hard on when i see the helically fluted schneider barrels? :D

 

 

Show me a schneider barrel and i'll tell you :D

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Err :D me too Dave :wub:

 

Just love the Timberwolf semi twist too :D:D:wub:

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a hard on, f@#k me I hada hide the boxers at the bottom of the washing basket after I see one.

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You dont need a 4 axis mill to machine flutes in a bolt body, it can be easily be done in a normal vertical mill such as a Bridgeport or similar.

All you need is a dividing head or indexing fixture coupled to the table main-screw via a gear train, so that when the table is traversed the head or fixture revolves.

 

Ian.

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