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Knife Sharpening


brown dog

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nope but a a sharp spoon skins better than most knives. its not the edge on a cut throat that stops it being good its the sharp corner that digs into the skin

 

as it happens i have shaved with ALL my hunting knives kabar warthog, coldsteel gi tanto, cold steel spike, kabar bob dozier folder, buck pack lite caper, buck pack lite skinner,home made ray mear type, falknivven f1, elk ridge, gerber my axe and my samurai sword. all because of what i learned from shaving/sharpening with cut throats so your dig isnt a good one, sorry

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I am not about to start a pi$$ing contest about what you believe 308 holes

The OP is about sharpening knives not about shaving. On that note I would assume the sharpening of knives the OP is asking about is for use in the field / workshop shed whatever for inital gutting and then carcas preparation. Not in a cosy chair in front of a mirror.

 

Try using your above methods in a proffesional situation in a slaughterhouse for a year, so you get all the kinds of conditions on sheep, cattle and pigs kept inside and out in all conditions before they are slaughtered and more importantly keep up with the production line. I can assure you your opinion would change on your much vaulted sharpening method. Try ripping a sheep brisket in winter time that is solid ice, cattle with a couple of inches of dried in $hit on their legs and briskets. Things I feel you have never obviously done.

I have done, on a proffesional level for more than a decade

The oilstone and steel have been used for an age in slaughterhouses because it is good fast and easily repeatable once you know what you are doing and it works. Have yet to see any of the fancy materials or tools to make it easier. Just the stone with rough and smooth sides some oil and a steel

As for the last comment smoke, blow, up and a$$ come to mind along with ballon and spangle. Big bathroom to shave with a samurai sword eh!

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nope but a a sharp spoon skins better than most knives. its not the edge on a cut throat that stops it being good its the sharp corner that digs into the skin

 

as it happens i have shaved with ALL my hunting knives kabar warthog, coldsteel gi tanto, cold steel spike, kabar bob dozier folder, buck pack lite caper, buck pack lite skinner,home made ray mear type, falknivven f1, elk ridge, gerber my axe and my samurai sword. all because of what i learned from shaving/sharpening with cut throats so your dig isnt a good one, sorry

 

next time you shave your beard with a samurai sword please consider getting it filmed :lol:

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Kevin T and Forbie are the ones to listen too. I worked in a slaughter house for a few weeks whilst training to be a meat inspector a few years ago. Everybody who worked in the place used an oil stone and a steel.

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I have water stones and diamond plates (E-Z lap). They are the only things I use, and I have lanskys and spyderco sharpmakers too. The diamond plate is the easiest, use dry and wash every so often and job's done. A length of oak plank with leather stuck on it is my strop and I have knives sharper than a sharp thing. The majority of hunting knives need a convex edge which requires some practice to get, but, if I managed it, anyone can. I could not be bothered with oil and such, too much faff and eventually the stone gets so saturated with swarf that is useless. For the most part a knife just needs stropped after use, the stones are for retouching a tired edge or chips and splits.

 

My two p

 

Bet wishes

 

Finman

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