brown dog Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Brown Dog, This new topic is very much in keeping with what we do in our spare time and I am sure people will have a lot to share and discuss. I went stalking with some friends last weekends and when the subject of sharp knives came up, one of the guides, Ken, produced a hand-made knife that he sharpens using a strop. I have never seen anything like it and I learnt that the process also polishes the blade. What are your experiences with a sharpening strop and which ones you use, as well as compounds? Regards, George I've lots to learn about sharpening knives well - anyone able to pipe-up on this with tips / techniques? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1967spud Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 ive used the lansky system for a few years now , and at first a very okward way to sharpen but once youve got the hang of it , its not that bad but there are better out there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mash67 Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 i'm ok with sharpening knives but would like to improve my next step after using the diamond imprenated boards is to get a strop,,my understanding is that this is your last process as the grit value would be really high.you can do it like a barber this will give you a slightly rounded final edge or put the leather flat on the table and keep the same angle you have used with your stone etc.you can also use some type of paste to aid sharpening .if you dont let your edge dull then you could strop most of the time i guess.i have tried it a bit with a leather belt ,i does improve the sharpness even if its just removing the tiny burr that you get when sharpening anyway thats my understanding ,some may know more. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunsgobang88 Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 i'm ok with sharpening knives but would like to improve my next step after using the diamond imprenated boards is to get a strop,,my understanding is that this is your last process as the grit value would be really high.you can do it like a barber this will give you a slightly rounded final edge or put the leather flat on the table and keep the same angle you have used with your stone etc.you can also use some type of paste to aid sharpening .if you dont let your edge dull then you could strop most of the time i guess.i have tried it a bit with a leather belt ,i does improve the sharpness even if its just removing the tiny burr that you get when sharpening anyway thats my understanding ,some may know more. Matt Hi Matt, I've just posted about knife sharpening on the Bushcraft sub-forum, perhaps BD would like to amalgamate the threads? Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilishdave Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Hi Matt, I've just posted about knife sharpening on the Bushcraft sub-forum, perhaps BD would like to amalgamate the threads? Alan I have tried most sharpening meathods over the years and I have found the most efficiant and effective way to get a razor edge is the chef's choice 120. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brown dog Posted January 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 I have tried most sharpening meathods over the years and I have found the most efficiant and effective way to get a razor edge is the chef's choice 120. Dave Dave - just googled that - 200 quid?! blimey! Like spud, I've got a Lansky - works but I'd like to do it with less kit. Also got a pocket size crossed ceramic rod thingy - that's what I use most. But neither leave me feeling like they're a 'man of the mountains' solution Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taylor Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 i use about 6 differnt grades of japanese water stones from 120 grit to 6000 grit the leather is the final step to remove all the burrs and hone the edge ,i like realy sharp knifes that will slice through hair and paper likes its not even their Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilishdave Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Dave - just googled that - 200 quid?! blimey! Like spud, I've got a Lansky - works but I'd like to do it with less kit. Also got a pocket size crossed ceramic rod thingy - that's what I use most. But neither leave me feeling like they're a 'man of the mountains' solution Not cheap thats for sure, I think that price is posted. http://www.blueshoots.com/pp/Knives_and_Knife_Sharpeners/Chefs_Choice_Sharpeners/Chefs_Choice_Edge_select%2C_Model_120.html If you value a razor sharp blade and cant be bothered with the faf they are Well worth the money Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22-250jock Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 dave, also have a lansky sharpening kit, some blades take alot of work to get the correct angle but once this is achieved then it takes very little time to touch up rgds jock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-NZ Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Have a search on the Net on this. I ran across a very good series by an American guy who owns a big knife shop. He had a series of ??8 different video clips showing the A-Z of knife sharpening. I emulated what he did and now have most of my hunting and kitchen knives I'd rate as "definitely sharp" as opposed to the previous "so-so sharp" Now if I could only convince my wife to give away those damn PE chopping boards- they bu**er the edge big time Chris-NZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilishdave Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 dave, also have a lansky sharpening kit, some blades take alot of work to get the correct angle but once this is achieved then it takes very little time to touch up rgds jock I also have a lansky, they are good but a real faf comared to the 120. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejg223 Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 If not much is around the bottom rough side of a porcelain plate or cup is not bad. My favourite is a ceramic rod ~ 96% aluminiumoxide for the first step and then use a dense silicon carbide sintered tube for the final bit. Never had good results with diamond although we had a huge variety at my last work place. edi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 I'm with Grant on this, Japanese waterstones are the way forwards.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finman Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Good morning, knife sharpening is something that I have been studying for a couple of years now. I have Japanese waterstones, Lansky system, ceramic rods, diamond stones and the Spyderco Sharpmaker, as well as some leather strops that I have made myself. Japanese waterstones are great, if one has the skill to use them. I found (thankfully on cheap knives!) that the variation in angle that is natural when moving one's hand back and forth eventually convexes the blade and, if not consistent, not in a symmetrical way. I have resolved that I need a lot more practice before I manage to have a symmetrical edge. The Lansky system is great for maintaining symmetrical edges and is also quite capable to restoring the symmetry of blades (as you will need to do after ruining it whilst practicing with Japanese waterstones). However it is only good for angled edges (Scandi, beveled, secondary) and no good for convex edges (such as those in Svord, Bark River and Fallkniven knives). I have achieved the best results with the Spyderco Sharpmaker. A simple system that maintains the angles that one nees for a razor sharp edge. However, for restoration and maintainance of a sharp edge the only tool one needs is a good strop. I made mine from 2inch leather (an old leather belt will do, I bought some leather from Tandy Leather, off the internet), stuck with woodglue on a 2 inch wide, 10 inch long piece of oak plank. Apply some abrasive medium on it and keep stropping (abrasive media are things like Autosol, TruCut, toothpaste, brasso, or some soap-like material that you can buy specifically for the job. Heinie Heines and a range of other outdoor suppliers sell these), even after having just dressed a rabbit. It maintains the edge beautifully and polishes the blade. Having a sharp knife is the only knife worth having (after all, if it ain't sharp, it's just a piece of metal), and to that end I spent countless hours studying how best to achieve this, although, by no stretch of the imagination am I an expert. What works for me is - stropping only if the knive has had some use that was careful (i.e. not hitting bone or teeth when dealing with a carcass, not dinging the blade on rock or soil when working with wood etc) - A few passes on the Spyderco Sharpmaker till the edge has been restored and then stropping to get a hair popping edge. If you have convex edge knives, the best instruction on how to sharpen those comes from the videos on www.knivesshipfree.com. (http://www.knivesshipfree.com/pages.php?pID=4&CDpath=0) - A rough-to-smooth work with the Lansky, then onto the Sharp maker and then strop, if there is a serious ding on the blade. If I am out and about, I have a portable kit, which is a DC4 stone (made by Fallkniven) and a slice of dried razorstrop fungus (which you can collect yourselves from your trip to the woods, whenever you come across a dead silver birch tree). And that works great on the hill to restore your knife after gralloching your beast That's just my limited experience and it would be interesting to see what regimes others use to maintain their knives. best wishes, Finman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sako75 Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Hi I have bought all the different systems over the years, and now only use the Japanese Water stones and the frame for holding the stones. I recon that for sheer cutting edge sharpness they are hard to beat. I have a number of handmade knives, some in stainless and some in tool steel and they all take an excellent cutting edge using the water stones. ATB Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tikka 260 Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 I have tried Lanksy, Gator and Smiths ceramic sticks over the years, but was advised by Alan Wood ages ago to use the Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker , since when I have stayed with it for all stalking, woodcraft and kitchen knives. Easy to use, and produces a seriously sharp edge. Good advice from someone who knows his stuff with knife steels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forbie Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Never have any trouble sharpening knives I used to work in a slaughter house for ten years and when skinning animals all day you learn pretty well what gets then sharp and more importantly what keeps them sharp for the longest. Normal Oil stone smooth side will plenty oil and we called them a steel at work. The ones you see in the chefs using in the cooking programs. These were really more important than the stone sharpening. Good steel,s were prized. I still have mine and use it for the household knives even though I left the trade years ago. The knives actually took a while after sharpening to come to their sharpest. I have no problem running my knives down my arm and removing all the hair like a razor does. As said above avoid teeth they dull it straight away. Avoid over sharpening and getting a folded edge these won't get really sharp. As for the point I found that the "tanto" style worked best for the purposes I needed as using different parts of the blade to do different jobs is also a good way to make the edge last longer. I used to use the heel of the blade nearest the handle for cutting through hide and dirt that accumulates on it on legs and then rip from the inside with the point for hide cutting over any distance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
british bulldog Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 I also use the Spyderco sharpmaker,very easy to use and first rate results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mare's Leg Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 I have a stone for rough spots, a Dick steel to roll the edge, and a square of 4mm leather to Polish the edge. I can't shave with mine, but I can zip through a deer with ease and have not cut myself (touchwood) in years from forcing a Dull knife or being to close to a sharp one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brown dog Posted January 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 I'm going to put my hand up to ignorance here: How are you fellows using the leather pieces / leather strops - could someone post an idiot's guide? It's a step I've never even thought of! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike6.5 Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 I’ve used lanskey for the last 10+ years with razor sharp results.. Check out this link for step by step sharpening technique using Lanskey stones. Razor edge on your blade guaranteed. http://hollandguns.com/ Go to FILM CLIPS link and it’s the 21st clip down “Proper Sharpening of Your Hunting Knife” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev T Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 I have tried them all, the ones that seem to do the job anyhow, not the 'v' shaped ikea gimics ! best i have used & still do, good old flat piece of Yorkshire sand stone, wet.thin the blade of your favourite tool, finish on a good steel. I worked in the abbatoir for years , everyone used it . The resuts are razor, once perfected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finman Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 Hi BD I use leather strops only for sharpening my and my friends' knives. A 5-7 cm leather strip, about 25cm long is more than adequate for all needs. Glue it with wood glue on a similarly sized piece of wood, apply some compound (easy to find in all carpentry and knife websites) or autosol/trucut from halfords and you are good to go. Place your blade flat on the leather and lift so the beveled edge is now flat with the leather surface. Drag the knife working from the base to the tip of the blade, at the end of the stroke turn the knife so the other side of the blade is now on contact and repeat 30-40 times. I use stones etc only if the knife blade has had particularly hard use or shows nicks and flat spots. Hope this helps Finman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forbie Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Kev T has the right idea a good steel is what you need to put a good edge on the blade after sharpening. They won't stand up to hard use but then what blade does. Easily blunted (don't touch teeth, grit or hard that which promotes growth and vigour on the carcase with any knife blade. Try working from inside the hide to the outside)Use the heel of the blade for initial cuts. Using an oil stone and a steel you won't get sharper for longer with them 15 years in a slaughterhouse proved that more than once. Problem is it takes years of slaughter house use (skinning and ripping open hides) to get the right angle, shape of point and which parts of the blade to use where on the carcase to get the edge to last any length of time. Thats another thing they were never their sharpest just after sharpening neither always took a half dozen beasts to get the edge to its best ( You only did a small part in the cattle on a large production line ie a leg, rumps or belly etc etc. One of the biggest secrets was the steel. If you get a good one hang on to it smoother is better and slow strokes with the knife when using it always worked best for me. I could sharpen my working knives and shave an arm with them once they got a good edge going no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silentsoulsleave308holes Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 i shave with a few cut throats, have done for a couple of years now. had to learn all about stones, strops, angles etc. get into it and it will teach you all you need to know, they had it right you know back then, we havent got anything major better now and to be honest it has taught me a great deal about how much we have un learned about knives Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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