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I have a 0 degrees picatinny rail on a sako quad heavy barrel in 17hmr , and i assembled it today, and have tried sighting it in.

 

I am using a brand new S and B precision hunter 4-16 x 50 lm p3 (s/n 352654), and so far i'm not getting on at all...........at 100 metres with hornady 17 gr v maxs, i am at full adjustment on the riflescope and still the bullets are hitting +/-7 cm low at 100 metres.

 

I chose this scope to give me the necessary 16 x magnification to shoot my main quarry, magpies and crows, at ranges 100-200 metres. and by my ballistics charts, zeroed at 100 metres i could use 4 x 1/2 cm clicks of bdc at 125 metres, 11 clicks at 150, 18 at 175 metres, and 27 at 200 metres to suit the trajectory of the ammunition. But at full scope adjustment, as discussed, i am still 7cm too low, i am at the extreme adjustment on the scope. Is this normal with this set up with this calibre, at this range, with this scope, or is their a fault with the scope ?.

 

I have 30 mm sako optiiock rings mounted onto the picatinny rail with sako optilock weaver bases, the rings are the medium version (36.5mm high) and so leave the centre of the riflescope approx 56 mm above the centre bore of rifle.

 

and there is a free distance of 15 mm from outside of objective lens to the top of rifle barrel, but even if i use the extra low sako optilock rings (30.5mm) that would only take 6 mm off the bore/scope height, leaving the centre's at 50mm.

 

Would getting the scope closer to the barrel by this 6 mm get me on the target. I don't think so, and so i am asking what else can be done, to get this riflescope to work with this rifle, and calibre, and ammunition.

 

I know of another member with the same 0 picatinny rail on a sako quad with a Leupold VX-3 6.5-20 x 40 LR with Leupold QRW mounts, but has no issues with same ammo. Have i done something fundamentally wrong in assembly ?.

 

I have taken the BDC turret ring off, and moved the height point of impact adjustment as far as it goes, but this gets me no nearer than the 7 cm mentioned above.

 

I did fire a few rounds with the BDC turret ring off, but surely this would'nt make any difference

 

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post-11015-020116200 1325958898_thumb.jpeg

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I have a 0 degrees picatinny rail on a sako quad heavy barrel in 17hmr , and i assembled it today, and have tried sighting it in.

 

I am using a brand new S and B precision hunter 4-16 x 50 lm p3 (s/n 352654), and so far i'm not getting on at all...........at 100 metres with hornady 17 gr v maxs, i am at full adjustment on the riflescope and still the bullets are hitting +/-7 cm low at 100 metres.

 

I chose this scope to give me the necessary 16 x magnification to shoot my main quarry, magpies and crows, at ranges 100-200 metres. and by my ballistics charts, zeroed at 100 metres i could use 4 x 1/2 cm clicks of bdc at 125 metres, 11 clicks at 150, 18 at 175 metres, and 27 at 200 metres to suit the trajectory of the ammunition. But at full scope adjustment, as discussed, i am still 7cm too low, i am at the extreme adjustment on the scope. Is this normal with this set up with this calibre, at this range, with this scope, or is their a fault with the scope ?.

 

I have 30 mm sako optiiock rings mounted onto the picatinny rail with sako optilock weaver bases, the rings are the medium version (36.5mm high) and so leave the centre of the riflescope approx 56 mm above the centre bore of rifle.

 

and there is a free distance of 15 mm from outside of objective lens to the top of rifle barrel, but even if i use the extra low sako optilock rings (30.5mm) that would only take 6 mm off the bore/scope height, leaving the centre's at 50mm.

 

Would getting the scope closer to the barrel by this 6 mm get me on the target. I don't think so, and so i am asking what else can be done, to get this riflescope to work with this rifle, and calibre, and ammunition.

 

I know of another member with the same 0 picatinny rail on a sako quad with a Leupold VX-3 6.5-20 x 40 LR with Leupold QRW mounts, but has no issues with same ammo. Have i done something fundamentally wrong in assembly ?.

 

I have taken the BDC turret ring off, and moved the height point of impact adjustment as far as it goes, but this gets me no nearer than the 7 cm mentioned above.

 

I did fire a few rounds with the BDC turret ring off, but surely this would'nt make any difference

 

Pic Attached

 

Might be worth you just taking off your rail and trying it the other way round just in case it isn't 0 degrees?

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I'd almost think you had a sloped base installed backwards :huh:

NO idea what's going on there if all is as you say.

 

I would optically centre the scope and fire a shot at say 50yds and see how far off the optical axis is

 

Chris-NZ

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Might be worth you just taking off your rail and trying it the other way round just in case it isn't 0 degrees?

 

+1

sounds like you have a rail with elevation that you are cancelling out with the scope adjustment. Spin it around and report back.

 

The scope does look a bit high though although that is a separate issue.

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Guys

 

appreciate your answers

 

it is a 0 moa pic rail it stacks up with the verniers........and i have it loctited to the rifle.

 

it only fits the rifle 1 way, so cant be flipped......

 

i have also just noticed that the windage is also almost at the end of its range to find zero. the dot on the dial on the s and b scope is right off.

 

i have had these rings on a sako 85.....no problem

 

these are new sako weaver optilock bases

 

agreed , it is high , about 18 mm.........but it needs space to change barrells/calibres on the quad.

 

on the optilock rings, there are 2 screws each sideto tighten the top 1/2 ring to bottom 1/2 ring .......on one side , 1 of the screws has stripped the threads on the bottom 1/2 ring............would that make that much of a difference..........dont think so

 

also should mention i have a scirroco moderator fitted.........but that dosn't change point of impact on or off as far as i can tell.

 

Thanks..........

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From memory optilocks are on a tapered base so that windage issues can be sorted, hence why they have the ring inserts to allow movement.

 

I would just read instructions and have a play about if new. That type of distance is far too much to start shimming.

 

Make sure both screw for optilocks are on the same side also??

 

Clutching at straw a bit afraid.

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From memory optilocks are on a tapered base so that windage issues can be sorted, hence why they have the ring inserts to allow movement.

 

I would just read instructions and have a play about if new. That type of distance is far too much to start shimming.

 

Make sure both screw for optilocks are on the same side also??

 

Clutching at straw a bit afraid.

 

Gandy and I thought you were going to say make sure your turning the turrets the right way :lol: :lol: :lol:

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I have a Sako Finnfire that is on the mechanical limit of the scopes elevation at a 75m zero.

 

My plan is to attempt to lower the height that the scope is mounted at, so that the objective lens is a bit closer to the barrel.

 

I'll be fitting a picatinny rail, and hopefully source some burris signature zee rings with offset inserts, to offer a bit of rough adjustment, and have the scope in the most useable part of its windage and elevation.

 

http://www.burrisoptics.com/sigrings1.html#2

 

+ This thread may be of interest.

 

http://ukvarminting.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11408&st=0&p=97210&hl

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Set your scope to mechanical zero and shoot for group at 50m ?

 

Still no joy then try the scope on another rifle , or another scope on your rifle ?

 

Slowly by a process of elimination you should be able to narrow down the possible causes until its obvious what it has to be ?

 

There is a couple of other options one of which is to strip it all down again and start again the other is to give it to a riflesmith to have a look ?

 

Is the whole set up new to you?

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Got a leupold with 30 mm warne rings to try, these rings should fit the pic staight off

 

cheers

 

l

Set your scope to mechanical zero and shoot for group at 50m ?

 

Still no joy then try the scope on another rifle , or another scope on your rifle ?

 

Slowly by a process of elimination you should be able to narrow down the possible causes until its obvious what it has to be ?

 

There is a couple of other options one of which is to strip it all down again and start again the other is to give it to a riflesmith to have a look ?

 

Is the whole set up new to you?

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what is mechanical zero ?

 

Set your scope to mechanical zero and shoot for group at 50m ?

 

Still no joy then try the scope on another rifle , or another scope on your rifle ?

 

Slowly by a process of elimination you should be able to narrow down the possible causes until its obvious what it has to be ?

 

There is a couple of other options one of which is to strip it all down again and start again the other is to give it to a riflesmith to have a look ?

 

Is the whole set up new to you?

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I have a Sako Finnfire that is on the mechanical limit of the scopes elevation at a 75m zero.

 

My plan is to attempt to lower the height that the scope is mounted at, so that the objective lens is a bit closer to the barrel.

 

I'll be fitting a picatinny rail, and hopefully source some burris signature zee rings with offset inserts, to offer a bit of rough adjustment, and have the scope in the most useable part of its windage and elevation.

 

http://www.burrisoptics.com/sigrings1.html#2

 

+ This thread may be of interest.

 

http://ukvarminting.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11408&st=0&p=97210&hl

 

Leading on from the link to my original thread given above by DL..... I've not had a problem with my Swarovski AV6-18x50's, Sportsmatch inclined mount sets on the CZ 17HMR and the Sako Finnfire .22 since I discovered there must be a difference between the 2 mounts(!!??).

 

Unfortunately, I guess using the Sportsmatch Inclined wouldn't work on a Quad as you need sufficient clearance between 'scope and barrel to be able to change barrels - my 'scopes are so close to the barrels that there's not even enough room to fit a Butler Creek. Having said that.. if you don't intend to switch barrels it wouldn't be a problem with the lack of clearance.... but then, easy enough to whip off the mount, swap the barrel and replace the mount? ....... just don't overtighten the sideplate of the Sportsmatch as you run the risk of cracking the action!! Yeah, yeah... I know, reader... I did just that on my original Finnfire! :mad:

 

Before I sussed the Sportsmatch mounts I was going down the Burris .22 Signature Mounts and Offset Rings route but had to use the 'high' rings which were just too high and looked totally naff.

 

Leading on from DL's mention of the Burris Signature Zee rings above, in an attempt to fit an NV 'scope to one of the rimfires I bought a pair of Delrin bases from J&P Springs for the Zee Rings on the off-chance they might fit the NV sight.... they don't. But, they slide over the dovetail and the Zee rings clamp them in place, so actually lower than the aftermarket rails and they won't mark your dovetail. https://www.jnpgunsprings.com/index.php?cPath=12

 

That's me, hope you suss it...... drove me nuts 'til I sussed it! :lol:

 

atb

Fizz

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Had to re-work several optilocks, Sako does not work as accurate as many think.

In this case front mount was taken down by about 0.5mm ....some tolerance.

edi

optilock.jpg

not sorted, it willbe the weekend before i get to try the leupold and warne mounts

 

beginning to think its the optilocks, and glad to see someone else questioning that aspect........

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had to re-work several optilocks, Sako does not work as accurate as many think.

In this case front mount was taken down by about 0.5mm ....some tolerance.

edi

optilock.jpg

 

Hi Edi,

 

on the manual that comes with the optilocks, it mentions that the forward base should be fixed flush with the posterior surface of the receiver, when used in Sako/Tikka rifles. I see from the picture that you have it much more forward than recommended and that may be imparting lateral stress on your scope, giving some difficulty when zeroing...

 

best wishes,

Finman

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have a quad with a 0 picatiny rail I got from america . I use the Leupold QD rings. I have had no probs with zero, and can remove barrel and scope and replace with very little loss of zero. They are very good and quite affordable. I recommend them as you will be able to bring the scope down a bit. As suggested above make sure the barrel is fitted correctly , clean all surfaces and make sure you close the bolt before you tighten it.

Hope you get it sorted.

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Hi Edi,

 

on the manual that comes with the optilocks, it mentions that the forward base should be fixed flush with the posterior surface of the receiver, when used in Sako/Tikka rifles. I see from the picture that you have it much more forward than recommended and that may be imparting lateral stress on your scope, giving some difficulty when zeroing...

 

best wishes,

Finman

 

Thankfully got rid of all optilocks and don't want to see any again.

How can lateral stress be put on a optilock if the ring screws are tightened after the bases are tightened?

Anyway either position would have not changed the height.

edi

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