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farmer_giles

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  1. Yep I think it helps that this scope is fully waterproof. I had to use parcel tape over the LRF lenses but otherwise it was a fairly simple job.
  2. A brief post to help those looking to DIY cerakote a scope without pro-gear. If you get C-series MagPul O.D. Green C-232 and a simple spray setup from Cerakote you can spray off your scope cold without an oven. I just hung it on a bit of wire and sprayed it in the yard. I've coated the rubber parts and it seems to stick well. Other C-series (cold, no oven) are less sticky on rubber parts and tend to flake off but not the c-232. You can't sand-blast a scope (it gets in the joints) so just wipe it down with white spirit and spray it with the cerakote. Some parts will end up a little shiny due to not sand blasting but overall the result is good. Tip: make sure you shake the cerakote tub well before you apply. at least 5 mins - a bit of a ball ache. it really is important to avoid lumps. You need to stuff some cotton wool or bog-roll in each end of the scope to stop it going on the lenses. I mounted it on a spare Picatinny rail and sprayed the scope and mount all in one. It's well worth watching the Cerakote Youtube videos of spraying technique beforehand. Here's my ATN X-sight-5 in an ADM QR mount (lovely) on a T3X 223 in an MDT Oryx (huge accuracy improvement). I've cerakoted the MDT also - as you can see. It's definitely more accurate since the cerakote job.
  3. lol yes I did think about putting it in the kitchen oven but with the C series putting it in the oven is not recommended. I was also anxious that it might not be ideal having gone through all that degreasing to put it in the (not exactly pristine) kitchen oven
  4. Finally got around to cerakoting the bipod. Taking it apart was... interesting. Disassembled Degreased for 24h Sand-blasted with 100grit Degreased again Cerakoted in FDE Re-assembled with correct tension in the belville stack and leg joints, plus the thread lock Not done the QR yet and it's more matt than the picture suggests. There were quite a lot of little bits in this job but I'm happy with the end result.
  5. I love the level of detail some of you guys have gone to! As a farmer I carry a knife at all times and use it a lot. For me: day-to-day I carry an Opinel 6 Carbon I've had since 2011 - I love that it locks open and closed, is compact and light. I sharpen it on a piece of discarded stone kitchen worktop gripped in a vice (I use the side where the diamond saw cut it). This gets it super-sharp and it stays sharp for months. It cost me £6 and I will be gutted if I lose it. Despite the carbon blade I don't find that it rusts. Probably because it drys pretty quickly being in my pocket. I have two Buck knives from the 1980's, both have rubber handles and work well for larger jobs. To be honest I don't use them that much except when we are cutting up lambs.
  6. oh - I took a look on mine and there isn't one. I'm thinking of screwing in a stud into the solid plastic section towards the back of the stock, possibly even on the side.
  7. Thanks Ashcroft - I took a look at that along with one of the MDT pic rails that has a QR hole in it. This would require a rail longer than the bottom of the stock which would probably tend to catch on things and be a bit of a pain. My current plan is to put a short pic rail on the bottom of the stock and try and find a pic-qr sling stud (the pic being qr not the stud). I can then leave that adaptor on the sling and use the pic qr to attach it. going to have a good root through brownells and ant-supplies! cheers, Giles
  8. Oh - forgot to mention - it has made the gun quite a bit heavier. I quite like that. In combination with it recoiling dead straight in this chassis it means I can shoot it like a 22LR - there is virtually no recoil.
  9. Hey Richie, the Oryx from MDT is worth considering. Mine has proved to be very good in improving the accuracy in comparison to the original stock. I took a long look at their more expensive options but I'm happy with the choice of the Oryx. One thing worth knowing is that you have to have the cheek-rest raised up about 1" from the stock (using the adjustment) in order to remove the bolt. Not a problem for me - I quite like it there. The MDT polymer 10-round AICS mag that goes in the Oryx is superb and will take 2.55" COAL which means my hand loaded 75gr ELDM rounds that measure 2.500" COAL fit. It's actually the reason why I bought the stock. You can add various rails and there is a single M-LOK slot on the bottom of the stock. I'm still working on how to mount a rear sling stud without it getting in the way. cheers, Giles
  10. I've got an off-the-shelf T3X SuperVarmint 223Rem in an MDT Oryx SA green. Before the MDT it was shooting average at best - as bad as 2moa with 53gr hornady supervarmint factory ammo - it was very frustrating. The MDT makes a HUGE difference. Firstly the recoil is straight, not up, so you can watch your shot go down the field. It's tightened the groups considerably - now well below 1/4moa with hand-loaded 75gr ELDM rounds - had a 1/9th group on paper at 186yds. I love that I can attach my Atlas PRS bipod at the front. Its fore end is a decent length so the bipod is way forward which is super stable. It's got a bit of weight to it so you can shoot the 223 like an air rifle, which makes target and game shooting really nice. I've not shot 6.5creed so no idea how that would be but it works great on the 223. attached 3 round group shot yesterday at 452yds on a 15cm gong - quite difficult to measure the group as they all hit the same place. a bit high. 75gr eldm's at about 2750fps. not got a chrono so estimating the mv from the drop. 22gr N135 load with fed primers, Lapua brass, loaded at jam mins 20thou so 1.940" OAL, 2.500 COAL. Shot off the bonnet of the truck. Gun: T3X SV 223, Atlas bipoid, ATN X-Sight 4K pro scope, Hausken WD60 moderator ceracoated in macmillan tan. The bipod/scope are just krylon spray painted. This MDT AICS mag allows the 2.5" COAL by the way, which the Tikka mag does not- essential if you're loading long bullets, which the 8-twist likes. Footnote: I'm still only getting about 1/2 moa off the 53gr eldm's hand loaded. Still, better than the 2moa the factory ammo managed
  11. I think I lucked out on a good starting load, particularly considering it's got the Hausken WD60 moderator on the front. The EC jam test is just putting a bit of case lube on the inside of the neck of an empty unprimed case, pressing a bullet just in (waaaay too long) then shutting it in the gun by slamming it in with the bolt, then ejecting it and measuring it. Measure then subtract 20 thou and start loading that length. There's no jumping the lands with this recipe. It show pressure signs VERY early in the ladder, (22.5gr) but it shoots banging good groups. I've not even started depth tuning - probably not going to bother. 1/4 is good enough for a fox at most ranges. Meanwhile, however, these rounds COL at 2.500" so the T3X mag is useless. I've made an executive decision that the chassis needs upgrading to an MDT Oryx which takes AICS mags that have enough COL.
  12. Accuracy update after some fairly extensive testing: Rifle: 1-8 twist .223 Tikka T3X Supervarmint with Hausken WD60 moderator, Atlas bipod. Viht N135 powder, Federal Primers, Lapua brass Hornady 53gr VMAX over-stabilised in the 8-twist and shot 2MOA at best with regular flyers, regardless of powder load. Hornady 60gr VMAX shot a bit over 1MOA Sierra 65gr Gameking shot a little under 1MOA Hornady 75gr ELDM shot 1/4 MOA on first load test with 22.0gr N135 and seated at 1.940" OAL (2.500" COL) (The Hornady OAL gague showed 1.920 and Erik Cortina's Jam test gave 1.960, so I went half way between. 22.5gr of N135 started to show pressure signs, so well below the 24gr that Viht state as max, however I'm loading into the lands, not jumping them, so not hugely unexpected.) cheers
  13. Interesting update Richie, annoying fps spread. N530? Must check out the FORMs.... Giles
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