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to neck turn or not?


craigyboy

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I am about to order some stuff from sinclair and I am on the verge of ordering a neck turning kit. I was advised to turn the necks lightly on my laupa brass as I will be using a redding competition bushing neck die without the expander. To be honest I really hate the thoughts of neck turning the reamer for the new chamber isnt a tight neck so dont need to in terms of clearance more just for uniform neck thickness and bullet tension. This whole realoading business just seems to get more time consuming and costly, If I was building a rifle for competition I would get a tight neck chamber and neck turn the brass but will it really make much difference in a no turn chamber with good quality laupa brass? i dont want to sacrafice accuracy by not neck turning but I am just not really sure in this application if its really going to benifit me, at best this will be a 400/500 yard rifle. I would appreciate your opinions and what you personally would do, ill turn necks if it really is neccesary but will avoid it if I can for now anyhow.

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Guest varmartin

craigyboy,

What rifle and calibre are you considering turning for ?

 

Once you get the hang of it it is not that hard, and once done it is done for the life of the brass.

 

I have neck turned for my 6mm BR but only because i had to due to its tight neck.

 

If you dont do it, you will forever wonder if you should have. Even the best Lapua brass will be more uniform if you part turn the neck.

 

IMHO...do it as it can only help with accuracy.

 

Martin

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thanks varmartin, this is why is am so undecided I know if I dont turn ill always wonder what if? But I have 200 cases that need done this is why I am sort of running away from it. I am doing it for a tactical 20, the reamer has a .233 neck and a loaded round neck is .2305 so I suppose I can lose a bit off that, is there a need to neck turn the whole neck down to the shoulder?

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Craigy,

If you are using Lapua made Dakota brass and dont feel like doing it, then dont do it but remember consistantcy promotes accyracy.

However if you are forming your cases from Lapua .223 brass, when sizing down the neck the brass has to go somewhere, usually increased neck length and neck wall thickness.

IMO it would wise to establish the loaded round neck diameter first and then determine if neck turning needs to be carried out or not. ;)

 

Ian

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vermincinerator I am using the laupa/dakota stuff (handy for me), loaded round o.d is .2305 and the reamer is .233 so I have enough clearance, I think I will turn them lightly, I am led to believe that you only need to clean up about 50% of the total neck surface. At least the winter is coming so I can do it on those long dark nights (if I can ever get away from work!)

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Seeing as varmartin got his reply in while i was doing mine ;) i will expand on what has just been said.

As your reamer cuts a 233 neck and your loaded round neck diameter is .2305" that would be classed as a tight neck only haveing .00125" to expand, that could be a good thing but you would have be careful that you never got an oversize case.

If you at least carried out a light cleanup neck turn, you would elimanate this possibility

Neck turning should be carried out for the full length of the neck.

 

Ian.

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thanks lads, thats it then I am neck turning, next question should i buy an arbor press.lol ;)

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Kip270 posted a similar question not so long ago.

An arbour press can only be used with Hand dies such as those from L E Wilson or Niel Jones.

With the expense of a set of Redding Comp dies for my 22-250AI project running at £177 if i bought them here, i sold my 6BR set and opted for a complete arbour press set from sinclair, including press, dies, die bases, micrometer head and a bushing for about £30 (including shipping, tax and duty) cheaper then the Reddings.

I then bought a set of 22-250 AI hand dies with micrometer head off ebay for the all up price of £69.

New from Sinclair before shipping, tax and duty they are costing approx £60.

The beauty of the Arbour press set up (apart from superbly accurate ammo) is its portability, you can set up anywhere even the back of a car!! ;)

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thanks for that answer Ian, I also had priced a set of redding competition dies in the sinclair catolouge and they were running the same price as the arbor press and dies which definatley sways me towards the arbor press, the redding comp dies I am sure will load some great ammo but they are very costly and once you buy one set you will always want to use them for all calibres, wilson micrometer hand dies are a lot cheaper to buy than redding micrometer dies an, think Ill just use the RCBS press for FL sizing from now on. Im off to put an order in with sinclair.

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put in my order last nite Ian, neck turning kit and arbor press on its way (+ a whole heap of other stuff that I probably dont need), this relaoding stuff is getting out of hand I ma going to need a bigger table soon.

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Guest dasherman
put in my order last nite Ian, neck turning kit and arbor press on its way (+ a whole heap of other stuff that I probably dont need), this relaoding stuff is getting out of hand I ma going to need a bigger table soon.

If I'd seen your post last night I'd have said send the cases over with the rifle and I'll turn them on a lathe for you. I used to do all my ppc cases by hand and managed about 20 at a time before it hurts, now it takes a couple of hours per 100.

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ah well neil a sore wrist never done anyone any harm. :D

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Great Choice Craigy, you wont regret it.

The dies are a cinch to use, you will marvel at the simplicity.

I go to the range with a heap of primed brass and set the press and powder measure up on the bench next to me, that way i can load 5 rounds very quickly, shoot them over the chrony, record the results, make any adjustments, load another 5 and repeat the process.

It makes load testing very easy.

 

Ian.

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