10/22 bedding

[Guest John Crouch]

Having been pointed in this direction, and especially to Baldie, by users on another forum (Guntrader) I would be interested in opinions on the best way to bed a Ruger 10/22. The rifle is a factory standard target model with the .920 diameter barrel and laminate stock, and shoots well up to 75 yards but 100 yard groups are poor. From what I can see on the www, the best way to bed is to lay compound between the stock screw and the balance point of the barreled action about 4" forward of it, while floating the remainder of the barrel and not to bed the action; the wisdom of this being the action is not stiff enough to be bedded in the normal fashion for a bolt action fullbore.

 

Thoughts, opinions or abuse...?

[Redfox]

I have a 10 / 22T, had it for about 5-6yrs and never felt the need to bed it , the biggest variant is ammunition. What do you use?

Redfox

[Vermincinerator]

John,

Some parties agree that the best way to bed a 10/22 is to use a barrel block and free float the action.

I have not seen a 10/22 bedded this way but after studying the link i provided it looks to be a very sound principle, and i cant see any reason why it wont work.

 

http://riflestocks.tripod.com/bedding.html...RELBEDDINGBLOCK

 

Ian.

[baldie]

The way i,ve always done mine, is to fit a large fat single stainless pillar, into the stock, that the action can actually sit on, and then bed the rear of the action, and around the pillar, then the barrel can be completely floated.The action is stiff enough to be bedded in this way, but you only need to do the back face.

To be honest, the jury is out on whether it makes much difference to the rifles accuracy, but if nothing else, it helps return to zero when the action is taken out for cleaning etc. Is it worth it? yes if you can do it yourself, personally i wouldn,t pay for it doing at the going rate, i would buy better ammo instead.

10/22 arent going to be tackdrivers with the best ammo at 100 yards, its stretching it somewhat, they aren,t the same as a bolt gun, and then, only the best like Anschutz with shoot well at 100 yards.

I would work on a good trigger, and a properly floated barrel, and best match ammo to start with buddy.

[baldie]

The drawback to the barrel block method Ian, is flexing problems, because to work properly, all the fixing points around the trigger would need taking out of the stock, then slight pressures on the triggerguard etc, could cause impact shift.

Personally, i dont like to see anything touching a barrel forward of an inch in front of the action, rimfire or centrefire, but thats just me.

[Scotch_egg]

just to be a pain i have a hogue stock that i purchased from syss and it is touching the barrel. How shoudl i look at free floating this, i dont think i can remove stock material as it is rubber.

 

hi-jack over

 

regards

 

Scotch

[Guest John Crouch]

Cheers one and all for your input. Regarding the barrel block method using a collar bonded to the barrel, I'm not too inclined to go that way as it's a permenant alteration to both the stock and metalwork - at least if I make a mess of the stock I can always just replace it. Plus, it does nothing for the aesthetics of the gun. I've tried various ammunition, and although some groups better than others it's still disappointing, even with match stuff; and that's comparing with another 10/22, albeit one with a Green Mountain barrel. That, however, won't cycle with tinned Lapua... at least mine eats anything!

 

Just throwing ideas out there, but a thought did occur to me. Getting a good, movement-free fit at the rear of the receiver looks like a difficult thing to achieve with epoxy bedding, due to the way in which the trigger group / receiver bottom locates in the stock, and the slop between the trigger group and receiver. The latter could be easily sorted by fixing the trigger group with 2 set screws tapped into the receiver sides mod outlined in the tuning guides, but I wonder if running a bolt through the stock, possibly through the centre of the pistol grip, to bear against the rear lower face of the action might be a solution. If that were combined with bedding the barrel block and possibly installing a pillar, it would stiffen everything up nicely. Maybe...? And if it doesn't work, I've still got the option of just replacing the stock with a s/h one to re-standardise everything.

 

How would you define a properly floated 10/22 barrel, Baldie? Fully floated, or with a contact at the tip of the forend? Again, is the push fit with wedge arrangement good enough to guarantee consistent alignment given the weight of the bull barrel if it's supported only by the receiver?

[Andrew]

I have never found that the standard weight barrel over stresses a 10/22 action. I have been shooting them for 30 years with no problem.

 

I agree with Baldie. Stock 10/22's are not known for accuracy. And the triggers are junk. The fact that you get good grouping at 75 yards but not 100 smells of ammo or stabilization problems... or environment. It takes very little wind to screw up a great group at 100 yards.

 

I took a lesson from the Finn military with regards to floating a Ruger, bolt or auto: I cut a .040" brass or copper shim to fit the recess that the barrel mounting block resides and mount the action. If you are going to get any benefit from free floating you'll know right away. I'm assuming you have ditched the barrel band, if it had one.

 

Floating is good and I have two "deluxe" model rifles that I have bedded only with the shim. Accuracy was improved dramatically. As these are field sporters I went no further. On the other side of the coin, I have a heavy, fluted, 1-18" twist Green Mountain barrel one of my 10/22's and it is fully bedded to the stock. It will shoot 10 shots touching at 50M with a large variety of ammo. There's just no sure fire way of telling.~Andrew

[col48]

Cheers one and all for your input. Regarding the barrel block method using a collar bonded to the barrel, I'm not too inclined to go that way as it's a permenant alteration to both the stock and metalwork - at least if I make a mess of the stock I can always just replace it. Plus, it does nothing for the aesthetics of the gun. I've tried various ammunition, and although some groups better than others it's still disappointing, even with match stuff; and that's comparing with another 10/22, albeit one with a Green Mountain barrel. That, however, won't cycle with tinned Lapua... at least mine eats anything!

 

Just throwing ideas out there, but a thought did occur to me. Getting a good, movement-free fit at the rear of the receiver looks like a difficult thing to achieve with epoxy bedding, due to the way in which the trigger group / receiver bottom locates in the stock, and the slop between the trigger group and receiver. The latter could be easily sorted by fixing the trigger group with 2 set screws tapped into the receiver sides mod outlined in the tuning guides, but I wonder if running a bolt through the stock, possibly through the centre of the pistol grip, to bear against the rear lower face of the action might be a solution. If that were combined with bedding the barrel block and possibly installing a pillar, it would stiffen everything up nicely. Maybe...? And if it doesn't work, I've still got the option of just replacing the stock with a s/h one to re-standardise everything.

 

How would you define a properly floated 10/22 barrel, Baldie? Fully floated, or with a contact at the tip of the forend? Again, is the push fit with wedge arrangement good enough to guarantee consistent alignment given the weight of the bull barrel if it's supported only by the receiver?

 

 

hi john

 

have you tried rim sorting your ammo,there is a gadge on the market that you can sort your ammo out with, i have had very good success with mine.now I'm not saying this is the problem but when you get the rifle sorted,then i would recommend doing this.my Bruno soots great with sorted ammo,it takes most of the flyer's out.

ATB

Colin

[Guest Hoot]

No need for shop brought gagetys you can make your own rim thickness gauge tool out of some 6mm brass and a micrometer.

 

I have a link somewhere that tells you how to knock one up. I'll have a look for it if anyone's interested.

[baldie]

Hi John, when i talk about a fully floated barrel i mean totally floating, from the action forwards, which can be achieved with a good wide pillar, and rear bedding, my volquartsen is done exactly like this, and when the wife gets back off holiday, i will strip it, and take some pics [she has the camera].

One thing i have found with ALL ruger barrels, including the fat match ones, is they always shoot better, after a recrown.

Scotch egg, slacken the action screw, and push the barrel to the other side whilst tightening it, this trick will usually centralise a barrel in a hogue, but some do touch, its the nature of a rubber stock unfortunatley.

[Guest John Crouch]

Aaah - recrown... now hadn't thought of that! Should have done - just spent a week or so building up an Enfield No5 replica out of a No4 sporter and had to work out a serviceable way of recrowning that without a lathe. As the Ruger's been screwcut the muzzle has been messed about with at some point - for all the cost getting it crowned might be a good thing to at least eliminate a potential cause of inaccuracy before I start looking deeper. Thankyou. I'll also have a play with shims in the contact areas of the stock to see if I can get any improvements, to get an idea of the way to go. Will try to let you know what I find. Would appreciate some photos, Baldie, to see where the bedding has gone and to give me a standard to aim for.

 

Cheers all.

[Guest 308Panther]

I was just in the local Wally World (Wal Mart) tonight

and happen to pick up the latest issue of Guns and Ammo...

As I was flippin thru the pages waitin for my turn in the checkout...

They had a section on diy crowning...Looked simple enough,and like the

biggest problem would be the proper bore insert selection...that and leavin

chatter marks when ya turn the cutter....

Now at this point keep in mind I only had time to look at the pictures....

I havent read the whole article yet.....kinda like a Playboy mag.

Who, really does read more than the jokes??

 

308Panther

[Guest John Crouch]

Now at this point keep in mind I only had time to look at the pictures....

I havent read the whole article yet.....kinda like a Playboy mag.

Who, really does read more than the jokes??

 

308Panther

 

Bit like the internet, really. You can spend hours looking at gun-porn, but just end up getting excited and going off at half-cock.

[Guest 308Panther]

On blued barrels with a rounded sporting crown its difficult to see the blast mark.

So they painted the end of the muzzle with White Out(stuff secretaries use to correct typed mistakes) to make the blast mark easier to see.

 

Their test rifle was a new Rem 770 in 30-06 and the before grouping was 3 shots with a 1 1/2 in spread at 100yrds...after they recut the crown, 3 shot group was less then 1/2 in....2 were in the same hole,1 was outside very slightly below the other 2, that made one hole.

 

They used a kit available from Brownells...Sorry didnt list a part number...

 

308Panther

[SteveW]

Hi John, when i talk about a fully floated barrel i mean totally floating, from the action forwards, which can be achieved with a good wide pillar, and rear bedding, my volquartsen is done exactly like this, and when the wife gets back off holiday, i will strip it, and take some pics [she has the camera].

One thing i have found with ALL ruger barrels, including the fat match ones, is they always shoot better, after a recrown.

Scotch egg, slacken the action screw, and push the barrel to the other side whilst tightening it, this trick will usually centralise a barrel in a hogue, but some do touch, its the nature of a rubber stock unfortunatley.

 

Hi Baldie

 

Did your wife ever make it back from her hol's I for one would still be very interested in seeing some pic's, not the wifes white bits

 

Cheers Steve

[silentsoulsleave308holes]

the best thing to do before bedding your gun is to find a spray like remington and lightly spray the whole gun

 

this stuff allmost goes dry after a few mins and will protect you gun from acidity found in human hands or other body parts

 

that way the wife wont mone about the bed sheets getting oil on them

 

ok I will shut the #### up and go back to my corner