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Varminting Scopes


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I'm looking to buy a scope for my new rifle and can't decide which reticle to go for.

 

I am interested which methods you lads use on long range targets once you have ranged/guessed the distance.

 

Do you use standard bar reticles and guess the holdover?

 

Do you use Mil-Dot reticles and know which dot to use for each range?

 

Do you dial in the range on your scope?

 

Any other methods that I've missed?

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The only accurate way to adjust for range is to dial your scope turrets.A simple fine crosshair will do fine for longrange work.I must admit that i like the NP R2 ret in the nightforce scopes for quick windage compensation though.

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Tikka Im just getting my varmiting set up together! Ive just bought a Tasco 6-24x42 it has a mildot reticle but even before its hit the rifle Ive chosen an upgrade!!!

 

meopta tactical

 

Ive a 7x50 on my 243 and love it to bits. I know 1 mans meat isnt everymans meat! But for the money I think they are hard to beat.

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Guest 308Panther

Using mil-dots as hold over/under and windage points comes from one thing....Lots of practice

And what works for one caliber doesnt work for another...For example..308 and .22-250

So its far easier to dial as needed.

 

check out:

http://www.shooterready.com/

 

Look for a tab marked view demo...

 

there is another formula for dialing wind speed...

use the range card to get drift value(DV)

use flag to determine wind speed (WS)

 

WS X DV divided by first to numbers of range distance

400yrds would be 4.0

450yrds would be 4.5

500 yrds would be 5.0 and so on...

Its a neat flash program....

 

check it out....

 

 

308Panther

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I have used and lerned mil-dot with my .22lr more in preperation for using mildot on centrefire but found it a bit inconsistent, It works ok but I reckon you would need to be using mil-dot everyday for about 10 years too fully exploit its uses, I have gone off multi aim rectcles alltogether when I started dialling in, hitting the target accurately is far more consistent but I think you need to go out in the field and learn the drop and dial in at ranges you expect to shoot as ballistic programes get you very close but if you want perfection and confidence you need to see the target for yourself, youre safer with a nice simple fine cross hair or duplex etc, I am currently using a swarovski 6-18X50 TDS4, I bought this to use multi aim but once I tried dialling in I forgot there was even any other way.

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It is down to scope quality on how good and repeatable their tracking is.

I find my Leupold Mk 4 is excellent, also I have heard good reports of the Nightforce range of scopes.

Dave

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and not forgetting S&B. in fact some of the cheaper scopes are meant to track well, i could not comment on this as i have not owned one.but i am sure some one here will put you right

 

ATB

Colin ;)

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Tikka Im just getting my varmiting set up together! Ive just bought a Tasco 6-24x42 it has a mildot reticle but even before its hit the rifle Ive chosen an upgrade!!!

 

meopta tactical

 

Ive a 7x50 on my 243 and love it to bits. I know 1 mans meat isnt everymans meat! But for the money I think they are hard to beat.

 

 

You wont go wrong with the Meopta, I have several, the tactical inc and it is a damn good scope for the money. Glass is just superb. Clicks are crisp and repeatable. I also have some NXS scopes, which are very good value I think.

 

 

Kal

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Guest 308Panther
Do you ever have issues with dialing back to (say) 100yd zero when you've dialled out to a 300 yard target? Or

is this purely down to scope quality? i.e. you get what you pay for.

 

 

W/ any of my Leupolds....None so far.

 

To some degree you will get what ya pay for.

And if like brand x you will more than likely buy another brand x...

If you bought a brand B and didnt like it...you more than likely wont buy another brand B

Even though the features it has.....You thought suited the application you intended it for.

 

After you establish your zero...(100 yrds?)

 

Shoot a "box"....

 

On a clean target....Take 3 shots aiming at the same spot.

Dial scope 4 clicks left...aim at original spot...take 3 shots

Dial scope 4 clicks down...aim at original spot...take 3 shots

Dial 4 clicks right...aim at original spot...take 3 shots

Dial 4 clicks up...aim at original spot...take 3 shots.

 

This last stage should have you shooting very close to your very first group fired.If your scope tracks well...

If it doesnt come close....you just found out your new scope has a problem.

 

The above example given was with the idea that the scope was/is a 1/4 moa adj...and you were shooting from 100 yrds.

If your scope isnt 1/4 moa adj....then you would dial the equivalant to equal 1 moa before shooting the next stage.

 

The end result should have 16 shots fired with 8 shot at the last/original stage...each stage or group

should be roughly 1 in apart forming a box.

 

You could in theory trim the number of shots fired down to one shot for each corner of the box ...but your results are not gonna be as precise.

 

308Panther

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Guest 308Panther

Just love days like that.... ;)

 

Usually involves a time when there is little to no wind,

And when everyone just happens to be at the range on the same day...

 

308Panther

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