K&M Neck Turner

[richyf]

Can someone please put me out of my misery. I’ve just bought this kit but I’m stuck already. My question is with the expander mandrel. I have tried to put one of my “full length” sized cases on the expander mandrel but there is no way that case is going to run on the mandrel. I could probably stand on the ram arm and it wouldn’t budge. So, do the cases have to be virgin, brand new cases or fired cases to work on the expander mandrel? The expander mandrel has .22 stamped on it so should be correct for 223?

 

Regards

 

Richy

[gunner]

On paper it should work , it normally take quite a bit to up the ram and re-size the necks , if you have any lube / imperial wax or something try that and you should be ok . Is brass de-chamfered inside ? Probably wouldn't matter but ... 

[gunner]

Ps to clarify the expander mandrel is different to the one you use to cut the neck thickness ( on k&m cutter ) - it should have a longish taper and a small bolt in it to adjust the depth stop 

[richyf]

Cheers gunner

 

Yes I know, it's the same as the one at the top of the picture. I have chamfered the inside of the necks and tried some RCBS case lube on both the inside of the neck and the mandrel itself. However, the case rides up the mandrel to about half way down the neck and stops. Short of putting that much force in to it that I may in fact pull my bench off the wall, it will not go any further.

 

Regards

 

Richy

[GT3_richy]

Whats the case inside neck diameter you are starting with, and whats the expander you're using mic at?

[No i deer]

It sounds to me that you've not wound the expander die into the press far enough to do the whole neck...!

[richyf]

You can actually see just how far the mandrel is going in to the case by the ring on the inside of the case neck. 

[Tictac]

I had the same issue, the "matched" expander for the neck turner was way too big. The case when expanded was too loose on the cutter mandrel and was causing up to 007 thou runout as a result. I switched to my Sinclair mandrel and now cut case necks with around 0005 - 001 run out.

I did measure the difference between the two mandrels but can't recall what it was, I can re-measure tomorrow if it helps?

My issue was with new Lapua brass, I have to neck turn to chamber it from new. Not impressed with the K&M mandrel, I learnt a valuable lesson on measuring before getting carried away and neck turning 50 rounds in future!

If you have sized the necks tight you may have a bigger issue than me?

[gunner]

How many times has this brass been fired ? I bet your hitting the donut in the inside lower neck ? Or its adjusted wrong ? 

[gunner]

Tictac may be right i had to send 1 back as it was expanding too much so the case would wobble on the cutter mandrel ! 

Measure the difference to both mandrels ? Whats the difference ??? 

[MrCetrizine]

This may be a stupid question but is it hitting the bottom of the case and the depth adjuster just needs screwing in?

[Tictac]

Its the expander mandrel being too fat I reckon.

[justin credible]

The screw thread on the bottom of the expander mandrel needs screwing in as you have it set out too far and it is bottoming out on the inside of the 223 case. That is the problem, there is nothing wrong with the mandrel. 

[No i deer]

It's what I said or what Justin said.the long threaded screw is to stop the case mouth touching the expander die.if it's out too far the case wont go all the way over the expander.

I always screw my expander die all the way in and use the long screw to stop the case mouth pushing against the die

[gunner]

1 hour ago, MrCetirizine said:

This may be a stupid question but is it hitting the bottom of the case and the depth adjuster just needs screwing in?

If its the case - that would be laughable , if it were the mandrel being too thick, surly it wouldn't enter the neck at all . Has someone got the little screw out too far ??? 

[Tictac]

I assumed the screw adjusted out too far would be readily apparent. If that's the case and you manage to turn a neck after winding it in I'd still watch for excessive clearance after sizing and run out on the loaded round.

It would be good to have some measurements?

[gunner]

Have you got a set of calipers ? Use the plunge measure inside the case then measure the screw protruding depth 

[No i deer]

I screw my expander die right in so I can see the bottom of the die and expander mandril rather it being up inside the press.if my memory serves me right there is only a couple of millimetres gap between the case mouth and the screw head when the ram is at its lowest position for the expander to go all the way inside the case necks on the brass I've expanded. This obviously would need to be adjusted differently for different length cases.

[Elwood]

Take the long screw out and throw it away or put it in a safe place, its really not needed.

One thing that will cause a lot of resistance is carbon inside the neck. From your first post I'm assuming that you are using brass that has already been fired?

The carbon not only narrows the inside diameter it also grips and causes friction.  There are several ways to remove some or all the carbon.  A  steel pin tumbler will be the best option. Another way is to get a .22 nylon brush wrap a bit of 0000 wire wool around it, stick it in a drill and spin it in the case neck. 

Once you have removed the carbon sufficiently put a small amount of Imperial sizing wax on a cotton bud and wipe it inside the case neck, I would advocate doing that anyway. Remember to remove all the lube/wax afterwards, if you don't you will notice as soon as you charge the case with powder.

[No i deer]

I use a bronze brush in a cordless drill on every case neck after every firing. Soon as the driver starts spinning you see the carbon dust come off. It about the easiest part of the reloading process and takes a few seconds a case.

My bronze brushes are bisley ones. I use a .350 or .400 cal brush which I do use in the neck of the chamber too. Here is a photo. I've got through quite a few over the years.a polished surface has got to help with a smooth bullet release.

Newish brush on the right.

As they wear they go deeper in the case and when worn so far I use them on my 6.5x47 brass once there not effective on the 7mm brass

 

[leck]

I’ve had the same problem before with virgin brass and found necking up in stages helps if you have a slightly smaller mandrel to start off but either way I find if you get a cotton bud and use lube on the mandrel, I use Lyman spray lube, just spray a little in a plastic lid top then apply it to the mandrel itself, you get three or four done and feel it starting to stick again, re apply the lube and you will be fine, also all the tips from fellow members are true so you should be good to go now, good luck.

Paul