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Nick 53

New barrel breaking in

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Hi all just taken delivery of a 6br rifle before I fire it would you or do need to polish inside the barrel ?

 Cheers Nick 

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Put a patch with a carbon cleaner down it to remove any carbon from the proof loads and knock any other possible contaminants that may haves worked themselves into the bore during transportation...then go shoot! 

If it's a decent matchgrade barrel (e.g. Bartlein, Krieger etc) they've already been lapped.

Polishing, with JB paste etc will just erode your throat quicker.

Bullets do a good amount of the 'smoothing' process to iron out any burrs post reaming. Just go shoot.

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Will do 

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6 hours ago, Nick 53 said:

Hi all just taken delivery of a 6br rifle before I fire it would you or do need to polish inside the barrel ?

 Cheers Nick 

What did the person who built the rifle advise?

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Nothing 

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As I remember I did JB my old factory Remington rifle barrel. As it was recommended to do so , since my 6br is a Louther Benchrest barrel I have no intention to JB it.

I will follow  Steve DUNN guidance for my barrel as I did with my 7mm barrel, Steve ,Laurie and Vince are the ones who have guided me on my Fclass shooting and will also guide me on Benchrest shooting.

if I can’t succeed with the input from these people then I will take up Fishing !!

 Nick 

 

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Roy: Thanks for posting that McMillan piece. I have been meaning to look it up. It a waste of time and barrel life. I have always contended that if I was told to 'run in' a high dollar custom barrel I would ask for my money back. ~Andrew

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A lot of us have adhered to something akin to the 'McMillan method'. I used to.  Now, I just shoot 20 odd rounds right off (which usually includes a bit of load-development) BUT I'm prepared to spend the next couple of days getting out all the copper residue. It's then ready for competition.

There is an interesting piece on the Snipers Hide forum at the moment - where the poster recommends running-in by shooting multiple rounds without cleaning - to burnish the barrel - i.e to form a hard coating.  Interesting.

The knowledge is out there - freely available. There will always be opposite opinions. No one likes the tedious 'shoot one clean' running-in process and again, it all depends on the use of your rifle.  If you're simply a hunter you perhaps don't demand the same performance as a benchrest shooter.

We all have expectations for our new barrel - if it doesn't live up to those expectations, was it our run-in procedure?  If Andrew went back to his gunsmith to complain that his new 'high dollar custom barrel" didn't shoot - I'm sure his gunsmith would ask how he ran it in.........

 

 

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2 hours ago, The Gun Pimp said:

 

If Andrew went back to his gunsmith to complain that his new 'high dollar custom barrel" didn't shoot - I'm sure his gunsmith would ask how he ran it in.........

More to the point I would be asking the gunsmith ,  how he finished it off .... 

 

 

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It never would have seen a round through it. He'd have gotten it back the moment I got 'run in' instructions.~Andrew

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On 11/9/2018 at 8:11 PM, Big Al said:

What did the person who built the rifle advise?

Probably not a lot, he's most likely a bloke with a lathe in his shed and isn't a metallurgist

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15 hours ago, One on top of two said:

If Andrew went back to his gunsmith to complain that his new 'high dollar custom barrel" didn't shoot - I'm sure his gunsmith would ask how he ran it in.........

More to the point I would be asking the gunsmith ,  how he finished it off .... 

How he finished it off?  What would you expect him to say?

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Interesting recurring question - bit like 'how/how often do you clean your rifles?' :)

Not sure about asking your gunsmith etc or going back to him if it does not shoot after the event?,

I'm just waiting on the availability of some proof loads for a new rifle, but it has already been tested by the smith using known commercial loads to an acceptable degree of performance before it leaves his shop and effectively 'run in' so I'll just shoot it when it arrives. If it does not work it's me or what I'm doing.

Christ, I even get a few example bullets cast from a custom mold to demonstrate it works - and that's a £150 item

So it is down to what you agreed with your gunsmith or supplier as to expectations and 'deliverables' - you pays your money you take your chances I suppose - caveat emptor!

T

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Nick, read the 3rd paragraph of Brillo's reply to bobski's post on barrel conditioning, 8 posts down on this page, sound advice . I've allways run a new barrel in and never had one that shot crap so will allways do it whether it's really worth it or not!! 

 

 

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Hi all

, thanks for the various does and don’t, myself and Steve have bore scoped the barrel we proceeded to use a pistol rod,with bronze brush lapped with fine wire wool and drops of oil . Afterward I cleaned the barrel and some minute bits of metal findings were removed. 

Since I’ve got to zero the scope I’ve opted to fire and clean the barrel. Through the process of zeroing.

i must admit that when I purchased the rifle , it was assumed (gunsmith) that I know what to do in breaking in the barrel. Fortunately Steve is on hand and refreshed my memory.

I appreciate that everyone has there own way and there’s Not a set way to break in the barrel.

 Nick 

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Being new to centerfire game, I researched the topic extensively. There are those who believe in barrell brake in and those who don't, and I believe a lot of it depends on personal experience.

When I bought my first centerfire rifle (Sabatti) I got a detailed instruction of brake in - it takes a whole A4 page and details how many movememts with which kind of brush You should make. I followed it and can testify it works - you can feel it (the first cleaning I needed my fathers help to push the patch through) and see it - over the first 100 rounds and countless cleanings my groups shrank from 0.8 to 0.3 MOA using the same factory ammo. On my second rifle (a Tikka) the effect was less pronounced but was still there.

How is it possible some people don't believe it then? They are used to custom barrels, that cost nearly as much as my complete rifle, and have been hand lapped and run in at the factory... If you buy factory, and not a high end custom - it's worth it.

Michal

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Having shot competitively for 40 years and with two of us shooting two Disciplines, ISSF 300 mt, and TR, we have used many different makes of top quality barrels, and I have always run in barrels,  but I think I if it needs anything in the realms of an abrasive or polishing compound then its not been finished correctly. It should be just a cleaning process.

In the last five years we have used only Lothar Walther (had 3) and now Bartlein (also had 3) and both recommend running in, look on Bartlein's web site for his recommended procedure which is much the same as I was recommended 40 years ago and still do.

Have Fun

Robin

 

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Much advice (not all) on breaking in is all a bit to 'voodoo' for my liking.  I'm willing to accept a crappy cheap finished barrel may benefit from 'running in' by removing tiny bits of steel dislodged by shooting but I can't see how a brush and patch is going to do much compared to an engraved copper jacket propelled by superheated gas.  Surely a competition barrel has been lapped and thoroughly cleaned before it gets to the customer?  There must be some metallurgy changes going on at the throat but again, I can't see what a patch and brush will do.

Some internet 'advice' would have the new owner wear out the barrel by 25% before using it for competition!

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In my opinion it's the bullets that do the "polishing", but cleaning removes copper residue that interferes with the proccess. I wouldnt spend 25% barrell life on it, but 50 rounds out of 5000 in 308Win seem OK if it makes the rifle shoot better.

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Michal has it spot on, the bullets do the polishing, then the cleaning removes what the bullet has polished, hence shoot one and clean, shoot two, then clean, shoot two & clean, shoot five & clean, shoot ten, & clean,  that's 20 shots, hardly barrel life, and then forget it, and enjoy the rifle!

I do zeroing at the same time which negates some of the chore.

Have Fun

Robin

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1 hour ago, MichalS said:

In my opinion it's the bullets that do the "polishing", but cleaning removes copper residue that interferes with the proccess. I wouldnt spend 25% barrell life on it, but 50 rounds out of 5000 in 308Win seem OK if it makes the rifle shoot better.

I have been told that for some calibers the rifle barrel gets swopped out after less than a 1000 rounds.  I'd love to see some definitive testing but I can't find anything where proper testing has been done; ie  5 barrels without "running in" against 5 identical barrels with "running in" all shooting identical ammunition from a bench mounted system.  Maybe when I win the Euromillions I'll sponsor a test !

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Don't go near a new barrel with any compound to lap in a barrel,  but "shooting and cleaning" running in is vital, and top match rifle manufacturers (not of the garden shed variety), and barrel manufacturers, will recommend the process.

One of the best descriptions I've seen to justify why is on the Krieger barrel website.

Have Fun

Robin

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On 2/25/2019 at 11:42 AM, RobinC said:

Don't go near a new barrel with any compound to lap in a barrel,  but "shooting and cleaning" running in is vital, and top match rifle manufacturers (not of the garden shed variety), and barrel manufacturers, will recommend the process.

One of the best descriptions I've seen to justify why is on the Krieger barrel website.

Have Fun

Robin

+1

I've always done this myself.  I always regarded "running in" the wrong term. It's not an engine.  My understanding is that most decent modern barrels (including factory) do not need lapping or any other abrasive compound, nor would I repeat the "shoot 1, clean one" method again, as I was advised when buying my first rifle many years ago.  Now, I simply run some carbon cleaner through from new to remove proof load muck, shoot it until I can see copper residue forming at the muzzle end (this was obvious to a blind man for my 6.5) which happened after maybe a dozen or so of the first shots, then clean it with carbon and copper remover (no brass brushes) until it's back to bare metal, then shoot it again.  Usually by the time I've put 30 or 40 rounds through I have cleaned two, maybe three times.  After that I just shoot it and clean whenever I see any copper build up...the intervals start to get longer.  I think after I'd put 50 or 60 rounds through, the next copper cleaning wasn't until I'd shot 40 or 50 rounds more.  Now I clean with copper remover perhaps every 50 to 75 rounds and carbon cleaner every time I shoot whether that's one bullet or 75. 

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