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CameronWilson

Tikka T3x prone to rusting?

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Hi Guys,

Are Tikka T3x rifles pro to rusting?

My one is an absolute nightmare.

Took it out for an afternoon session in 30deg heat. It got put back in a dry gun bag, drove home (45mins), took it out, orange all over it.

The metalwork has looked dark brown from when I bought it new.

Never had this problem with any other rifle that I’ve owned.

Is Cerakoting the answer?

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My mates T3x rusted badly after being put away damp. Overnight in a warm dry gunsafe, the barrel was badly marked. Truly way beyond what you would expect. No defending the fact it was not properly attended to after a wet outing, but the speed with which it reacted would suggest there is something lacking in their blueing.

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I've experienced both an original t3 and an older m595 being absolute pigs for rusting. 

 

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Their might be differences in the bluing but I don't believe Tikka deliberately uses low quality steel, just as i wouldn't believe it from other companies. Steel rusts, rusts quicker with salts around. A rifle that is extremely prone to rusting might have something on the surface to promote rust. I wash the complete barrelled action, mag, trigger (stock separately) with very hot soapy water and rinse well. Then after quick blow off with the air gun I flush with WD40 inside and out. Wipe off. After an outing just spay with wd40. Those who hate WD40 can find an alternative product or just leave it rusting.

This year at the IWA I had a discussion with the Sako product manager about rust on rifles, he said they don't use an ordinary steel for their blued rifles with emphasis on less corrosion. Not sure if there was a change in what is being used in the last years.

 Cerakote/DuraCoat will reduce or stop rust where the paint is applied but the rifle will happily rust away in places we can't look and no paint is applied.

edi 

 

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Interesting Edi, as I have often read WD40 to be bad for blueing ? Certainly leaving your rifle wet overnight really not clever, but the degree to which this particular brand new T3x marked was quite amazing.

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Get some Corrosion-X and apply it after washing all other surface stuff off. Reapply it occasionally , especially if they get wet again. I just don't have corrosion issues now with blued guns

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Bluing, is a controlled form of surface reaction, not unlike rust.

The tikka steel obviously has a high carbon content [ not good quality steel ] to rust so easily. Pig iron almost.

Their "stainless" is as bad. Not all stainless steels are actually stainless however. Its quite frightening how fast their stainless will erode, when a moderator is left on it.

A good quality oil will help. WD40 is a water displacer, and not one I would pick for protection personally. Brunox is good, but Birchwood casey Barricade is excellent, i've used that for years, both in the shop, and at home. It also smells nice.

Cerakote will stop the problem.

If you think the exterior is bad, pay very close attention to the bore. Almost all chrome moly barrels I get through in the shop, have rotted out, rather than shot out.

I personally would not have one given....stainless every time.

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Out of interest what are AI barrels made from ?

Squaddies are trained to clean stuff to a very high standard but theres not always the time and conditions can be very very poor as many of you will know , OX24 seems to work .

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Stainless.

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I also think stainless is the way to go.

Assumptions of good or bad steel/carbon steel/what stainless is BS, only if one analyses will one know what steel it is or what it contains. I have one Lothar Walther normal steel barrel that produces a brown patch after one day stalking in the rain. You can't reliably keep rust out of that barrel. I say again the worst thing (for protection reasons) one can do is Cerakote the barrel giving you a sense of corrosion protection which is not the case inside the bore. 

 

Malxwal, one hears a lot of bad things about WD40 mainly by those who try to sell other things. They will even tell you it contains silicone. One chap in Germany did tests with varies corrosion protection sprays/liquids and WD40 ended up as being one of the better ones. WD40 like many other corrosion protection sprays only give a temporary protection but reliably protect if applied after X time. X in relation to how bad the surroundings are.

http://www.christian-merten.de/DAF/Rostschutztest/Rostschutzmitteltest.htm

edi

 

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AI recommend WD40 and GT85 for  lubrication of the trigger but not the rest of the rifle.

and  "Where the rifle is to be stored for a lengthy period or when in a corrosive atmosphere, a thin smear of oil should be left in the bore. Moisten a patch with CLP 16 oil and pass it once through the bore. (this must be removed before shooting)."

and "Break free , CLP 16 , OX24  - Cleaner, lubricant & preservative - General cleaning and lubrication of the action and rifle exterior."

 

 

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I used WD40 a lot on my rifles for yrs , sprayed a heap on them after cleaning , remember I live in New Zealand , and its very wet & cold here , and I wanted to protect my blued rifles .

I noticed that it turned into a varnish like goo over time , and also dis- coloured bare metal , like bolts , so I stopped using it , and went to 556 , it dosnt appear to turn into hard varnish in long term storage like WD40 does .

Also , at the same time , a guy on this board , said something like it is banned from use around TI metal in aircraft engines as it starts micro cracking of the metal .

So I stopped using it yrs ago .

 

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Before spending a lot of money try spraying with ACF50. There are very few products I ever bother to recommend but it is an absolutely fantastic rust inhibitor.

I work in a wet damp environment, and rate it very highly.

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Never experienced any signs of rust on any of my Tikkas, be that blued or stainless.  I do look after them though and they're cleaned and oiled before being put away every single use.  Been out in some pretty awful downpours with them too.  ACF50 or similar might be the answer for those who do experience issues.

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I've noticed the bluing on my Tikka TAC 1 magazine isn't  holding up well, quite a bit has worn of to bare metal already... After shooting it a couple of weeks ago, I got home, cleaned/oiled it and put it away. I took the magazine out of the cabinet a couple of days ago, and to my horror the magazine had large orange spots of rust on it. It was only very light, and was easily removed with a worn out scourer and some oil. Granted it was my fault for not wiping it over with my lightly oiled rag. But i'd expect the bluing to last a lot longer! Not sure what to do now. Whatever i do to it regarding finish, it will just wear off again after use.

VarmLR, Hows your mag holding up?

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It seems to be fine Chaz.  I keep the gun cabinet liberally stocked with silicon bags and use acf50 to wipe surfaces down before putting away.  My mag bluing has worn at contact points but that's pretty normal for most metal mags so not a concern.  Barrel is fine as is action and bore.

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14 hours ago, VarmLR said:

It seems to be fine Chaz.  I keep the gun cabinet liberally stocked with silicon bags and use acf50 to wipe surfaces down before putting away.  My mag bluing has worn at contact points but that's pretty normal for most metal mags so not a concern.  Barrel is fine as is action and bore.

Cheers Paul. My own fault for forgetting to oil it... I'll have mooch for this acf50

Cheers.

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There's a better and slightly cheaper alternative to acf, Chaz,  calledXCP Professional Rust Blocker. In tests, it outperforms just about anything else on the market for rust prevention and is safe to use on firearms.  I use it for liberally coating the underside of my SUV to prevent our winter salt laden roads corroding the sub frame and suspension arms.  I've found that on vehicles, you can get away with one aplicatrion every 3 to 4 months and it keeps things minty.  Around £14 a can I think.  ACF50 I used on my bikes and firearms until I discovered XCP.  Don't use it in the bore though!

 

xcp_rust-blocker_montage.jpg

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1 hour ago, VarmLR said:

There's a better and slightly cheaper alternative to acf, Chaz,  calledXCP Professional Rust Blocker. In tests, it outperforms just about anything else on the market for rust prevention and is safe to use on firearms.  I use it for liberally coating the underside of my SUV to prevent our winter salt laden roads corroding the sub frame and suspension arms.  I've found that on vehicles, you can get away with one aplicatrion every 3 to 4 months and it keeps things minty.  Around £14 a can I think.  ACF50 I used on my bikes and firearms until I discovered XCP.  Don't use it in the bore though!

 

xcp_rust-blocker_montage.jpg

What percentage of snake oil is in it?

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No snakes were used in the making of this 😉

ACF50 (as you should know as a biker) is also very good indeed, if pricey.

Here's a link to a controlled test where many such products were evaluated. https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/the-best-motorcycle-corrosion-protectants/tested-xcp-rust-blocker-corrosion-protectant-review

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Cheers Paul.

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34 minutes ago, VarmLR said:

No snakes were used in the making of this 😉

ACF50 (as you should know as a biker) is also very good indeed, if pricey.

Here's a link to a controlled test where many such products were evaluated. https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/the-best-motorcycle-corrosion-protectants/tested-xcp-rust-blocker-corrosion-protectant-review

ACF has a good rep, although I've never used it

I'm just being a little cynical as they're new on the block and have released 6 products that are all miraculously better than the rest 🙂

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Yes, that's a fair point.  I tried some when the stuff first came out was quite impressed but I think that ACF just has the edge and it cleans up slightly rusted areas better.  

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I use a product called Sadira Centauro, made for the marine environment. Works great. I saw it being used for rust protection and salt displacement by marine mechanics.The label also recommends it use for protection and cleaning of guns.

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