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Hi all

Some help at the moment I shoot both 308 and 6BR.

The 6br is a 26 inch barrel with a 1.8 twist I've been using N140, 26gr  and 107gr smk hpbt

The 308 is a 30 inch barrel with a 1.11 twist with N140 42.5gr and 155gr smk hpbt 

I would like to shoot both at 600 yards any advice on different loads or powders ? 

Kind regards

G

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Do both of those loads work for you?

If it ain't broke don't fix it👍👍

I don't know about 6br but your 308 recipe is fairly standard. 

Alan

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Agreed with above.

Are your loads performing consistently at 100m? If so, stretch the legs out to 600m and give it a go and see. You'll only really be able to tell how well they're holding up (e.g. showing low vertical etc) by shooting at distance.

Another big thing is just practice. If you've not shot 600m or beyond yet, its quite different to 100/200m. Key to success when shooting at distance will be building your knowledge of reading the wind and developing a solid shooting position & technique. Your loads could perform very well at distance but if either of the above aren't solid then quality of the loads won't matter.

Enjoy - once you start shooting at 600m and beyond, you won't go back! 

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19 hours ago, Catch-22 said:

 

 

Enjoy - once you start shooting at 600m and beyond, you won't go back! 

This is so true! Our Sunday afternoon long range group sets a steel target at  540 just to get a quick scope zero verification. The next target is 614 and then they space out to a tad short of a mile.~Andrew

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Hi if your shooting at Bisley take he 308 to the zero range using a zeroing card and that will get you on paper. From there you can adjust  accordingly.

 

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Andrew, that sounds like nirvana!

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4 hours ago, MJR said:

Andrew, that sounds like nirvana!

Living in Montana has it's perks. This is one of a couple of informal ranges we have available that reach to 850 and beyond. The most challenging is a timbered canyon that has maddening wind shifts and eddies. Dependent on the time of year and foliage, there is better than a mile to be had but the bullet's path takes it past rock faces, over coolies (right angle ravines coming in from the canyon walls) and through stands of timber. All of which play hell with bullet. It's great shooting when you can decipher the conditions and find a path to the steel, but on other days the conditions are too wild. You really need to work at it. On one outing we had a very good west coast PRS shooter with us for some 850 yard plinking. About 3 minutes into firing a wind came up (with the accompanying dust and debris) that held a steady 27-34 mph. One fellow retired to the pickup truck, the PRS guy hung with us. Afterwards he described the conditions as "sporty". :)~Andrew

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Thanks all for the information it's a big help especially from our US colleague.

Regards 

^_^

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MD,

I think you're a bit light on the 6BR.   Every barrel I've had (about 5 now) has shot best around 30 grains of ADI 2208 (Varget) or NI40 or N550 with the 105 class bullets.   Current one I'm loading 30.6gn N140, with a 105 Scenar, but obviously work up with your own components and if you're shooting a factory rifle with sloppy firing pin fit in the boltface, you're unlikely to get near without primer cratering or even blanking.   If you're shooting on a 1/2 minute centre at 600 yards you need all the help you can get.

Richard.

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Hi Leeman 

I was just concerned using 30gn of N140 with 107smk hpbt According to the VV's  reloading information it only goes up to 27gn max.

I don't know if that is a conservative figure they give?

G

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2 hours ago, MrDuston said:

Hi Leeman 

I was just concerned using 30gn of N140 with 107smk hpbt According to the VV's  reloading information it only goes up to 27gn max.

I don't know if that is a conservative figure they give?

G

MD,

You can't really blame Vihtavuori or any component manufacturer for being conservative, there are so many variables in terms of barrel and neck dimensions, powder/case/bullet/primer lot and the ability of the reloader to recognise signs of dangerous pressure.  You just have to take a view on what is reasonable based on the reloading manuals, other information available and your own experience.  If you are new to reloading then the manuals are a safe way to start.

Richard.

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MD,

A little bit more advice.

The loads in the link that Chris has provided all should be worked upto, don't just bung that amount of powder in the case and call it good, start a couple of grains under and in a case the size of the 6BR I build up in .3 grain increments, loading a couple of cases each time.  I shoot over a chronograph and expect to see something like 25fps increase for each increase in powder weight.  If I find there is a very small or no increase in speed, then I would probably stop there and try a different burning rate of powder unless I 'm happy with the velocity.   The other advantage to doing this is you get plenty of opportunity to feel how the bolt opens (assuming you're shooting a bolt action) and any heaviness is easily felt, which should alert you to the fact that you've exceeded safe pressures.   Shiny marks on the case head from ejector or extractor or cratered primers (although this can also be from loose firing pin fit) would cause me to back off the powder charge as I don't need hard bolt lift.   That load I mentioned, 30.6 grains, I actually started at 28.5.

Hope that helps.

Richard.

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Evening Richard 

A big thank you for all the information, I will certainly take on board all the advice everyone has given.

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