Learning to adjust a scope.

[benny1996]

Hey folks. So I have been shooting with club guns, but whenever I have shot, the rifle has normally been set up already or someone has told me the adjustments. So I have not really had much of a chance to learn. I know bits and pieces and am actively researching and learning the techniques, but am still trying to get me head around it. If anyone could suggest any sites or resources to help me out, or offer any tips then I would appreciate it.

[1066]

I made this little video a while ago - it might help you visualise what you are trying to do.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwD5zu7yTeI

 

[jcampbellsmith]

I suggest that you get hold of an air rifle fitted with a scope and practice with that. Regards JCS

[Kevgun]

Air rifle is good advise, that's how i started learning about it, because you have a more prominent trajectory, so need to adjust the scope more often for different ranges.

[benny1996]

My problem is the MRAD formula for shooting at longer ranges. For example, the place locally to me shoots 300 yards at the minimum. So how do I go from putting a new scope on a rifle, to zeroing at 300 yards. How do I work out the initial clicks is what I am after.

[DaveT]

You don't want to zero at 300 yards....100 yards for this.

You also need to get the muzzle velocity of your ammo  via chronographing......see if someone will do it for you.

After that either buy or borrow a ballistic app such as Applied Ballistics or Strelok for your smartphone.....with a little bit of input data (too much to describe here but anyone you shoot with should be able to help) it will get you on paper at longer ranges.

All you need to remember is that a Mil scope normally has .1 mil clicks and  each click will cause the point of impact to raise by 1cm at 100 metres....an angular change which produces 2cms elevation at 200 metres etc etc for further out.

An MOA scope typically has 1/4 moa clicks which raises POI by 1/4 inch at 100 yards (assuming 1 click dialed)  and then double that at 200 yards and so on as range increases.

There is more to it but thats the basics.

[DaveT]

Easiest way to get a 100 yard / metre zero is to mount the scope...a task in itself.....read up.

Set the rifle in a stable cradle of some sort and look through the bore to sight in on an object about 100 yards away.

Without moving the rifle then adjust the turrets until you can see the same object in your crosshairs.

You will be toughly zeroed for 100 yards / metres and ready to fire rounds to refine your zero.

Assuming you hit paper somewhere at 100 yards you can either correct the point of impact to dead centre of your target using the scope turrets if you can work out how far you are off in terms of elevation and windage then fire another round to check OR keeping the rifle absolutely still and on your original aim point you can move the crosshairs to where the bullet impacted which should get you very close to a final zero.

Again, your shooting buds should be able to help.

[benny1996]

Thanks for the information. Although I have never shot at 100yards, I do understand how to boresight and zero at 100 yards using both methods you listed. So I could confidently do that on my own. I have looked in to how to fit a scope, but will be getting mine professionally fitted when the time comes. I will however have to find myself a 100yard range to zero at, which is why I was asking if you could do it at 300.

I guess what I am trying to get at here, is the method for shooting out past 100 yards, as I have always shot at 300 or 600 yards. I know you can do this on a ballistics app, but I would like to learn how to do it without, so I dont have to always rely on an app. The issue I have is trying to wrap my brain around making MRAD/MOA adjustments from 200 > 300 > 600yards etc.

I have been messing around with the Strelok app for a couple days, so I will try it out next time I go shooting. I will also pickup a chronograph so I can calculate my own muzzle velocity, any specific ones you would recommend?

1066 - I actually saw that video awhile back when I was learning, it was very helpful to be able to visualize the method.

 

[DaveT]

You can zero at 300 yards BUT its unreliable due to wind effects , shooter aim errof etc, etc and 100yds is a much more sound baseline.

Chronographs such as Magnetospeed and Labradar are best but costly....suggest you see if someone will help you out here unless cost is not a concern.

[bradders]

What calibre of rifle do you have?

What ammo are you going to shoot through it?

What kind of range does your club shoot on?

And finally, what part of the country are you in?

[VarmLR]

Benny

 

let us know where you are and I'm sure one of us will be more than happy to help.  If you're close to me, I am happy to take you through it all.

[benny1996]

I am in the West Midlands. Planning on shooting a .308/6.5. Factory ammo for starters and then I plan to reload, not sure which brand yet. Club shoots at all the MOD ranges.

[VarmLR]

18 hours ago, benny1996 said:

I am in the West Midlands. Planning on shooting a .308/6.5. Factory ammo for starters and then I plan to reload, not sure which brand yet. Club shoots at all the MOD ranges.

If you use Warminster IR2, give me a shout.

[DaveT]

Me too.