Biathlonjimmy Posted April 18, 2017 Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 Afternoon All, After only 130ish rounds through my .300WSM the rail has started to come loose. The screws "securing" the rail to the action were very tight but the recoil seems to have loosened it. Is it best to use an epoxy resin (Araldite et al) to create a better bond. Any pitfalls or tips? Thank in advance, James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DW58 Posted April 18, 2017 Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 Strange - I also have a .300 WSM (in this case a Tikka T3) - this has had a Tikka rail fitted to it (not factory fitted which are epoxied on), but merely torqued on at around 15 in/lb (Tikka screws are only T10) - there has been no loosening whatosever over two years and some 600 rounds. Recently I have replaced thisrail with one from Recknagel similarly torqued to 20 in/lb, I don't expect it to move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biathlonjimmy Posted April 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 I replaced the Tikka 0moa rail that I purchased initially (not factory fitted to a T3x LH) with a Tier One 20moa. It might be because the rail didnot come with matching screws so I used normal 6-48 srews to install. Either way I need to ensure it doesn't move in the future. So is expoy the right fixant? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradders Posted April 18, 2017 Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 Loctite the screws Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DW58 Posted April 18, 2017 Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 I replaced the Tikka 0moa rail that I purchased initially (not factory fitted to a T3x LH) with a Tier One 20moa. It might be because the rail didnot come with matching screws so I used normal 6-48 srews to install. Either way I need to ensure it doesn't move in the future. So is expoy the right fixant? As I mentioned above, Tikka actually epoxy rails onto their actions - i.e. epoxy adhesive between action and rail, however I haven't gone to this level myself, I'm perfetly happy with it's security as is, however you can always use Loctite if you wish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biathlonjimmy Posted April 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 Thanks both. Loctite ordered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biathlonjimmy Posted April 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 Duplicated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted April 18, 2017 Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 Interested in this thread from another angle. Just looked at a video which used light epoxy bedding to get over any mating surface curvature between rail and action...ie ..if you simply screw down a rail under these circumstances you can induce a bend and transfer stress to scope and mounts AND I guess mess up any moa incline you have decided to include on the rail. What do most gunsmiths do / recommend? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted April 18, 2017 Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 Devcon bed the rail to the action body. In the case of a T3 I would use a Contessa rail which have a recoil lug which mates to the action - bonding necessary in this scenario. Pinned rails do not need bonding either ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted April 19, 2017 Report Share Posted April 19, 2017 Thanks for feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markfromholland Posted May 7, 2017 Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 i have an original tikka rail which has 2 steel arresting pins in it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tier-One Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 Hi james, Where did you purchase your rail from? It should have been shipped with all the necessary hardware including the recoil pin. If you let me have your address I will forward some over to you ASAP. Kind Regards, Tier-One Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bully Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 I always two pot glue the rail down. At first lightly to act like bedding the rail. Then nip up tighter later, as per the Nathan foster books. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tikka4Sika Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 Loctite the screwsThinking ahead ,Which one is best ? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biathlonjimmy Posted May 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 Hi james, Where did you purchase your rail from? It should have been shipped with all the necessary hardware including the recoil pin. If you let me have your address I will forward some over to you ASAP. Kind Regards, Tier-One That is a very kind offer. PM sent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tier-One Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 Hi James, They are on their way with a few extra spares. Best Regards, Tier-One Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bully Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 Thinking ahead ,Which one is best ? Cheers Blue lock tight, something like 243. (If you have the same red bottles which are common here) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tikka4Sika Posted May 11, 2017 Report Share Posted May 11, 2017 Blue lock tight, something like 243. (If you have the same red bottles which are common here) Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biathlonjimmy Posted May 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 the result: http://ukvarminting.com/forums/topic/38556-tier-one-excellent-customer-service/?do=findComment&comment=306064 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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