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Towsey

Strelok advice please

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Aaahhh...

 

I'm having a rite going on here...I'm sat on the sofa with a couple of old targets that have escaped my lass chucking them out, and bloody strelok. I can't find 125 or 175 but I've got 150 sat here. When I measure from the aim point to POI on the target with the tape it's 2.5" exactly (which is about .75 mil dot of hold over when shooting) fine by me, apart from strelok is saying it's .75 mil dot which Is right but it's saying it's 3.98" and it just isn't! And it says it's 2.54 moa. So I don't actually know wot the real measurements are because I was using strelok to get the info and the targets seem to have disappeared

 

I think I need to buy strelok plus or pro and wait for a good day and start from scratch after getting some average muzzle velocities, and make some range cards at the same time- they have never let me down before- real life results written down. I do already have a range finder and there is a kestrel 3500nv on route.

 

Cheers

 

Towsey

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Is that meters or yards? Obviously your scope is second focal plane (Hawke don't do FFP do they?), so remember that a mil dot is only a true measurement at 10X.

 

If you're using Mills then ranging in m makes sense, a mill is 1mm per m, so at 150m 0.75mill is 0.75*150/25.4 = 4.4 inches.

At 150yd that 0.75mill would be 4.05 inches.

If you were using a 4-16 Hawke at 16X the apparent size of the reticle would change so that "0.75 dots" = 0.75*(10/16)=0.469mill which at 150yd = 2.53 inches. Is that what you were doing?

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Also, Strelok free version doesn't allow zooming, so you are stuck with the scope on 10X. I don't personally think you need pro, but Strelok+ is well worth it for the scope zooming feature alone.

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Cheers for that, and that link is good

 

I'm working in yards, just cos I always have really. I was at 10x but recently went to 12x (4-12x) but that was before I started messing really so I might go back to 10x and see if things work out better. I Have always just shot paper and taken notes of wot happens on the targets and use that info for shooting...it's 100yd zero and at 150yds it measures 2.5 inches on target which is a .75 mil dot correction through the scope (12x) and at 200yds I need to hold over 1.75 mil dots but I can't remember the measurement on paper at the mo.

 

Thanks for all the calculations, maths isn't my strongest thing and although I follow easily enough I don't know all the calculations, it's interesting. I was only going go buy pro so I had it for the future if I was to need it

 

Thank you

 

Towsey

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ok, you must have something a bit off,

150yd = 137m, so 1mill = 137mm

2.5" = 2.5 x 25.4mm/in = 63.5mm,

so 2.5" @ 150yd = 63.5 / 137 = 0.46 mill

if you have your scope at 12x and the reticule is true at 10x that will be 0.56 dots (which are now 10/12 mill per dot).

 

It's worth checking what is going on there. Have you actually shot a group trying to hold off 0.75 dots? the 2.5" drop sounds about right, but that cant be 0.75mill (or even dots).

 

I used to do a lot of shooting groups at different ranges to make up range cards, trouble is every measurement you make in reality has an error associated with it, if you do it again a different day it will be a little different, then you have two "ground truths" and it all gets messy. In practice "real data" did not turn out to be more reliable than well set up software modelled data, which was a lot easier to get! Now I trust Strelok, if there is a discrepancy between reality and Strelok I find it is usually either a bad measurement of reality or I had set up strelok wrong.

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Yeah something doesn't add up...like I said before everything went fine with the .22lr but not the hmr.

 

No to be honest. I hold over for shooting and head shots are plentiful but I've never bothered too much like you say with the hmr. I spent a long time playing around with the .22 and I noticed a difference between a hot summers day and a damp summer evening.

 

So you would recommend I persevere with one of the streloks then (by the way, do you know all the differences?)

 

I need to get sorted on a good day with a good set up nd spend some time (and money) I think

 

Thanks

 

Towsey

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Yes absolutely, just get the + version, it costs less than a box of HMR ammo, it would be cheaper than shooting enough rounds to make a range card! It has what you need: the hawke 1/2 mill dot reticule and the ability to zoom. You can even email the image, which has range markings for all the reticule features, for the HMR application you don't need ultimate precision, I have just printed that, laminated it and stuck it to the side of my rangefinder.

 

The differences between versions, see Igor's rather skeletal website: http://www.borisov.mobi/StrelokPlus/ and http://www.borisov.mobi/StrelokPro/android/default.asp

 

Unless you have a Bluetooth weather meter or you want to use a G7 BC (great for long range precision, not for walking and stalking rabbits with an HMR) you don't need pro.

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Yeah that's sounding like a plan, but if I was planning to go bigger in the future would pro be worth the extra bit, or does it make the more simple shots more complicated? I'm getting my new phone on Monday so il buy one then. Do you mean that when I have strelok set up properly that I can email the image to my computer to print off. It looks like if all else fails there is also the option for truing aswell.

 

Thanks for the links...plus is tempting me because I'm not buying a Bluetooth meter at the mo, I was thinking more like adding that sort of the stuff to the total cost of going bigger/longer

 

Many thanks

 

Towsey

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Just a thought...after watching a couple of videos about plus, if there is trajectory validation to correct a MV issue then do I need to bother to pester a shop to borrow their chrono or could I just put in the manufacturers MV and provided all other info is as accurate as possible then go from there?

 

Thanks again

 

Towsey

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