Threaded muzzle brake for moderators

[markymark]

Hello,

 

Not owning an AI, and apart from the Tier One version are there any other muzzle brakes that are available in the UK to when then allow you to screw over a moderator over the top without having to remove the brake?

 

I like the tier one version, however the only thing holding me back at the moment is the fact in comes in Stainless steel only and not a phosphate/painted/black model. I don't like the look of the stainless steel on the end of my barrel when I have no other SS going on my rifle.

 

I think being able to screw the mod on without having to take the brake off is a really neat idea.

 

Many thanks,

 

Mark

[TJC]

If I understand you right the ASE Utra Jet Z with the Borelock muzzle brake might be what you are after.

[PaulC]

How about a black neoprene sleeve

[Scotch_egg]

Why not just have the stainless tier one brake ceracoated? I had one of Mark Bradley's brakes on a .223 and it certainly stood up to the blast.

[markymark]

Just looked at the Borelock system and very expensive! They do a Sako/Tikka 18x1 adaptor though which is good. However around twice the price of the Tier one, I think not.

 

I rung up tier one and asked if they do a black version and why not. They said the finish wouldn't last on it.

 

What do you think has the most hardy finish for not coming off when screwing a mod on and off. Phosphate finish, anodising, cerakote or perhaps other painted finishes from other companies.

 

Really like the Bradley brake, but he's out of stock at the moment. Like the idea of screwing the mod on and off without having to remove the brake. Choice is a hard thing!

[bradders]

Why not just have the stainless tier one brake ceracoated? I had one of Mark Bradley's brakes on a .223 and it certainly stood up to the blast.

 

 

You can successfully Cerakote the Tier One stainless Tac brake. I have one done so and it's holding up fine.

That said, a few shots with the can on and it will be black anyway

[markymark]

You can successfully Cerakote the Tier One stainless Tac brake. I have one done so and it's holding up fine.

That said, a few shots with the can on and it will be black anyway

Much appreciated as always.

[Chanonry]

I think being able to screw the mod on without having to take the brake off is a really neat idea.

 

Many thanks,

 

Mark

 

 

Yes it's an elegant idea not so sure how it shapes up in practice. I have one on the AI, so I shoot both. Mod is tight to put on/off, brake is just anti-social. It works, nice to have the option I suppose. Recoil is a minimum with the brake.

 

Would I bother again - probably not.

[Shuggy]

An AI double baffle brake plus a Brugger & Thomet or One Less Charlie mod is another option.

[ChrisF]

You are worrying over nothing , just be prepared to have a flithly brake , from shooting with the can ON , if you use a brake by its self , the gas vents at hi-speed , off the brake body & leaves the brake pretty clean ( almost self cleaning ) , BUT once en-closed inside a suppressor , the brake gets flithly just like any normal baffle inside a can , and when its inside a can , it cannot function like a brake anymore, just another baffle .

[sfurby]

Not really the right topic but close enough, I cannot seem to remove the moderator thread protected on my new, to me anyway, AI. Is there a special trick or should I just go for some heat in case it's been loctited?

 

Thanks

 

Steve

[terryh]

Not really the right topic but close enough, I cannot seem to remove the moderator thread protected on my new, to me anyway, AI. Is there a special trick or should I just go for some heat in case it's been loctited?

 

Thanks

 

Steve

Make sure it is not a LH thread??

 

Believe some B&T suppressors used on AI's are LH to stop the RH blast (from the rifling twist direction)from unscrewing them!

 

just a thought

 

T

[newsatten]

Its only the threaded portion on a AI tactical Brake that has a Cackhanded thread, the barrel is right hand !

[baldie]

Steve, the muzzle thread cap on the brake is LEFT HAND.

 

The barrel thread is RIGHT HAND.

 

Both are M18 x 1.5.

[sfurby]

Thanks for the answers, however still seems stuck I don't want to force much more should I try heat? Also there is a small hole drilled through the protector ~4mm is this of any relevance.

 

Steve

[terryh]

Steve,

 

My guess the hole is for a 'C' spanner or similar - to enable the thread protector to be removed after several people tried to remove it the wrong way thinking it was a RH thread perhaps? lol

 

T

 

ps trying to fathom the reference to RH barrel thread??

[sfurby]

Thanks All,

 

Got my left handed wrench and everything fine , though extremely stiff