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T3X - Thread & Cap


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I was asked to thread a Tikka last week. It was a brand new T3X in .308 with a lightweight fluted sporter barrel that the customer had waited 9 months for, when it arrived it wasnt screw cut as Tikka must feel such a light weight rifle would be shot without a moderator.

As with all jobs its important to make sure the rifle is returned to the customer as it was when it arrived but none more so that an brand spanking new one!

It was threaded 1/2 UNF with an invisible thread cap, a quick bead blast to blend everything in and its looking the way Tikka should have made it

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Maybe it wasn't threaded because it was too thin????

 

the wall thickness looks tiny on one photo,, unless its just the angle its been captured at making it look less?

 

 

It was 16mm at the muzzle which the common size for a Tikka/Sako porter barrel, the thin top side you are seeing is misleading perspective.

 

The customer supplied the moderator at 1/2"UNF, had I supplied the mod myself I would have used 14x1.

 

Then again there are plenty of .308 sporters out there with 1/2UNF.

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I know they must pass proof and work ok, but I think 1/2" thread on a 308 looks terrible, and there must be a chance that it affects accuracy by producing a loose muzzle.

If you do the maths the wall thickness to the bottom of the screw threads is only 1.4mm (0.054") by my calculations.

 

The gunsmithing job looks good though, not so sure about the freehand engraving of ".308" on the moderator, looks like I did it after a few pints!

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I know they must pass proof and work ok, but I think 1/2" thread on a 308 looks terrible, and there must be a chance that it affects accuracy by producing a loose muzzle.

If you do the maths the wall thickness to the bottom of the screw threads is only 1.4mm (0.054") by my calculations.

 

The gunsmithing job looks good though, not so sure about the freehand engraving of ".308" on the moderator, looks like I did it after a few pints!

 

 

As I said, I would have recommended 14x1 but in truth this would only have added another 0.025" onto the wall thickness. Of course this would be almost about a 40% increase ( I estimated the original wall to be 0.060") but still quite think and susceptible to heat. Then again what else do you do with a slim sporter in such a big caliber?

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As I said, I would have recommended 14x1 but in truth this would only have added another 0.025" onto the wall thickness. Of course this would be almost about a 40% increase ( I estimated the original wall to be 0.060") but still quite think and susceptible to heat. Then again what else do you do with a slim sporter in such a big caliber?

True, you can't cut an 18mm thread on a 16mm barrel can you. 14x1 sounds like a worthwhile increase.

Personally I would probably choose a "less slim" profile, given the bore size, but each to their own. I find .308 a bit punchy recoil wise in a light rifle anyway.

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True, you can't cut an 18mm thread on a 16mm barrel can you. 14x1 sounds like a worthwhile increase.

Personally I would probably choose a "less slim" profile, given the bore size, but each to their own. I find .308 a bit punchy recoil wise in a light rifle anyway.

 

 

Yes, I agree but I can only work with what Im given so 1/2-20 it was on this occasion.

 

The moderator was supplied with the engraving done already, I dont know if the customer did it himself?

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