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exmarksman9870

Photon and ir problems

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Hi troops...

 

I have a photon 6.5 xt and a t50 ir..the mount i was using is crap..a clulite...all the threads have stripped and i dont get clearance from the scope body so the ir is not in the scopes field of view as well as it can be...

 

What other mounts is out there that will have good clearance and adjustment.. seen a few but they dont look like they adjust anough.

 

Also any one get alot of glare from a stainless barrel im getting alot of white on the bottom of the image like its bouncing off the barrel ?

 

Cheers

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I would get an adjustable mount for the torch , it depends on whether your torch is 25mm or 30mm as to what mount you get..

There are cheep ones on flee bay that will do the job, but you can't beat getting a perfect IR light, right were you want it.

Also, mount the torch above the unit, not on the side rail - unsure if you do this, but it will make the balance better.

 

Yeah, it could be the barrel... Try making a cheap ' mirage band ' and see if that helps, but it could also be that your torch is not zoomed in enough & centred in the scope

 

Also, if you don't already, pop out the small inner, in the lens cap & the close the cap - this will improve the picture

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Put the photon on my little .22 brno and the set up is perfect..easy spot fox at 200m...soon as i put it on the .222 back to the glare so i know its not the scope and ir...so it must be the stainless barrel ...so do i duracoat it or puton a none glare tape..i did try tape but it made no diff but it was shiny coated so to say...

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A quick fix might be a strip of insulating tape across the bottom inch of the lens to stop the glare.

 

I mount my torches as far back as I can get them to put the barrel/mod into shade of the Photons camera housing using one of these...

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rifle-Scope-Accessory-Mount-30mm-25mm-1-Weaver-Picatinny-Rail-Laser-Torch-/302172635403?hash=item465ae4810b:g:BgcAAMXQEbdRmk5o

 

I currently use a 'bodged' QR base with an optilock ring on it but I originally used one of these... just needs a bit of shimming ( a small piece of damp proof course plastic) to get the torch aligned and puts the torch in reach of my left hand.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302210403892?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2661&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

thumb_SAM_1985_1024_zpswmqfcq7a.jpg

 

 

thumb_SAM_1986_1024_zpst60xvidl.jpg

 

One of the original offset mounts on my Drone Pro

 

SAM_1511_zpsnjqgdwrg.jpg

 

 

Cheers

 

Fizz

:ph34r:

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we make a cheap adjustable solution fits 25mm & 30mm tubes

Theses are very stable & adjust in seconds in the field without tools

a lot more stable then the el cheapo adjustable weaver offerings

 

https://www.ludicrous-lumens.co.uk/collections/3d-printed/products/new-3d-printed-adjustable-qd-ball-mount

 

regards Andy

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I got fed up with the crappy wobbly adjustable mounts available out there and came to the conclusion that for my use of NV once I had set up the correct position they did not need to be adjusted anymore so decided to make my own bracketry that once adjusted tighten up the allen bolts and the light just clamps on same place every time.You need to be able to drill and tap and shape some L shaped alloy basically.The up and down movement is easy to see how it works and the left to right is allowable by an elongated slot under the rear allen bolt on the base of the bracket.Food for thought ,,,,,,,,O

post-41-0-76054600-1486411730_thumb.jpg

post-41-0-27616400-1486411781_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Nice... I like it.

only problem for me, is I use 1 torch on 3 rifles, so I need to dial it every time I move it between them.

Or, I could buy more torches ?!

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My tip for aligning them is that you actually want the center of the beam in the upper part of the image. Typically the objects in the bottom of the image will be a lot closer, and therefore more brightly illuminated, than the ones in the top part of the image. The camera will adjust itself so that the bright bits are not "burned out", which can mean that the top, or more importantly the center, will be a bit dark. Ideally you want an illuminator putting a lot more power onto the longer range bits, the close bits are adequately illuminated by the edge of the beam. This is achieved by centering the beam above the center of the image.

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A quick fix might be a strip of insulating tape across the bottom inch of the lens to stop the glare.

 

 

thumb_SAM_1985_1024_zpswmqfcq7a.jpg

 

 

thumb_SAM_1986_1024_zpst60xvidl.jpg

 

One of the original offset mounts on my Drone Pro

 

 

not trying to derail the thread,but was the yukon a straight screw on to your ir or did you have to mod the threads (mine wont screw on)

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I bought my Photon together with the Tracer Ledray F900 as a bundle, the Ledray comes with Tracers excellent ball mount and weaver to weaver clamp i will a picture and post it tomorrow

 

Ian.

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not trying to derail the thread,but was the yukon a straight screw on to your ir or did you have to mod the threads (mine wont screw on)

 

 

With the original T20's you had to cut the torch bezel back to the threads - same thread as the Ranger lens. The T38's were an 'improved' T20 but a lot of the threads have been tight meaning they need easing out a bit to take the Ranger lens.... a right PITA.

 

Best of the lot is the TR38 as per my first 2 pics above... just a case of unscrewing the bezel/lens and screwing on the Ranger lens.

 

I found that the moving rear lens of the Ranger would change modes when it contacted the face of my 3 mode pill so I cut the brass pill back to the torch body.... this may not happen with the single mode pill. The added advantage is that I can now get a sharp focus of the LED die's grid form and the lens, being that bit closer, should pick up more of the IR from the LED's own 45degree lens - rather than have it bouncing around and causing stray light or a halo out the front (which w'be more likely to reflect back off your barrel/moderator).

 

The other advantage of the TR torches is that the component parts are interchangeable across the range. No need to buy a different body for a different sized head/lens or pill.

 

Skany/Ludicrous Lumens for the TR38's - with your UKV discount. :)

 

Cheers

 

Fizz

:ph34r:

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With the original T20's you had to cut the torch bezel back to the threads - same thread as the Ranger lens. The T38's were an 'improved' T20 but a lot of the threads have been tight meaning they need easing out a bit to take the Ranger lens.... a right PITA.

 

Best of the lot is the TR38 as per my first 2 pics above... just a case of unscrewing the bezel/lens and screwing on the Ranger lens.

 

I found that the moving rear lens of the Ranger would change modes when it contacted the face of my 3 mode pill so I cut the brass pill back to the torch body.... this may not happen with the single mode pill. The added advantage is that I can now get a sharp focus of the LED die's grid form and the lens, being that bit closer, should pick up more of the IR from the LED's own 45degree lens - rather than have it bouncing around and causing stray light or a halo out the front (which w'be more likely to reflect back off your barrel/moderator).

 

The other advantage of the TR torches is that the component parts are interchangeable across the range. No need to buy a different body for a different sized head/lens or pill.

 

Skany/Ludicrous Lumens for the TR38's - with your UKV discount. :)

 

Cheers

 

Fizz

:ph34r:

i managed to get the threads machined out but as you predicted it turns itself off when screwed in to go to flood and touches to brass on the led bezel,

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