exmarksman9870 Posted October 9, 2016 Report Share Posted October 9, 2016 Hi troops... I have a photon 6.5 xt and a t50 ir..the mount i was using is crap..a clulite...all the threads have stripped and i dont get clearance from the scope body so the ir is not in the scopes field of view as well as it can be... What other mounts is out there that will have good clearance and adjustment.. seen a few but they dont look like they adjust anough. Also any one get alot of glare from a stainless barrel im getting alot of white on the bottom of the image like its bouncing off the barrel ? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treetop Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 I would get an adjustable mount for the torch , it depends on whether your torch is 25mm or 30mm as to what mount you get.. There are cheep ones on flee bay that will do the job, but you can't beat getting a perfect IR light, right were you want it. Also, mount the torch above the unit, not on the side rail - unsure if you do this, but it will make the balance better. Yeah, it could be the barrel... Try making a cheap ' mirage band ' and see if that helps, but it could also be that your torch is not zoomed in enough & centred in the scope Also, if you don't already, pop out the small inner, in the lens cap & the close the cap - this will improve the picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plonker dave Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 Look on ant supplies for adjustable mount and you can get a scope weaver mount on flee bay for a few quid. Atb dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exmarksman9870 Posted October 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 Cheers troops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exmarksman9870 Posted February 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2017 Put the photon on my little .22 brno and the set up is perfect..easy spot fox at 200m...soon as i put it on the .222 back to the glare so i know its not the scope and ir...so it must be the stainless barrel ...so do i duracoat it or puton a none glare tape..i did try tape but it made no diff but it was shiny coated so to say... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzbangwhallop Posted February 6, 2017 Report Share Posted February 6, 2017 A quick fix might be a strip of insulating tape across the bottom inch of the lens to stop the glare. I mount my torches as far back as I can get them to put the barrel/mod into shade of the Photons camera housing using one of these... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rifle-Scope-Accessory-Mount-30mm-25mm-1-Weaver-Picatinny-Rail-Laser-Torch-/302172635403?hash=item465ae4810b:g:BgcAAMXQEbdRmk5o I currently use a 'bodged' QR base with an optilock ring on it but I originally used one of these... just needs a bit of shimming ( a small piece of damp proof course plastic) to get the torch aligned and puts the torch in reach of my left hand. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302210403892?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2661&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT One of the original offset mounts on my Drone Pro Cheers Fizz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skany Posted February 6, 2017 Report Share Posted February 6, 2017 we make a cheap adjustable solution fits 25mm & 30mm tubes Theses are very stable & adjust in seconds in the field without toolsa lot more stable then the el cheapo adjustable weaver offerings https://www.ludicrous-lumens.co.uk/collections/3d-printed/products/new-3d-printed-adjustable-qd-ball-mount regards Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treetop Posted February 6, 2017 Report Share Posted February 6, 2017 Get yourself one of these : http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=291625937766&globalID=EBAY-GB They fit a 25mm tube , so your torch should fit it .. Trust me, you will thank me in the end Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onehole Posted February 6, 2017 Report Share Posted February 6, 2017 I got fed up with the crappy wobbly adjustable mounts available out there and came to the conclusion that for my use of NV once I had set up the correct position they did not need to be adjusted anymore so decided to make my own bracketry that once adjusted tighten up the allen bolts and the light just clamps on same place every time.You need to be able to drill and tap and shape some L shaped alloy basically.The up and down movement is easy to see how it works and the left to right is allowable by an elongated slot under the rear allen bolt on the base of the bracket.Food for thought ,,,,,,,,O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treetop Posted February 6, 2017 Report Share Posted February 6, 2017 Nice... I like it. only problem for me, is I use 1 torch on 3 rifles, so I need to dial it every time I move it between them. Or, I could buy more torches ?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Dogge Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 My tip for aligning them is that you actually want the center of the beam in the upper part of the image. Typically the objects in the bottom of the image will be a lot closer, and therefore more brightly illuminated, than the ones in the top part of the image. The camera will adjust itself so that the bright bits are not "burned out", which can mean that the top, or more importantly the center, will be a bit dark. Ideally you want an illuminator putting a lot more power onto the longer range bits, the close bits are adequately illuminated by the edge of the beam. This is achieved by centering the beam above the center of the image. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.243ackley Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 A quick fix might be a strip of insulating tape across the bottom inch of the lens to stop the glare. One of the original offset mounts on my Drone Pro not trying to derail the thread,but was the yukon a straight screw on to your ir or did you have to mod the threads (mine wont screw on) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vermincinerator Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 I bought my Photon together with the Tracer Ledray F900 as a bundle, the Ledray comes with Tracers excellent ball mount and weaver to weaver clamp i will a picture and post it tomorrow Ian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sako 243 Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Have look at this, night master mount Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exmarksman9870 Posted February 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Tried everything to solve it nothing helps..im gona get it cerakoted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzbangwhallop Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 not trying to derail the thread,but was the yukon a straight screw on to your ir or did you have to mod the threads (mine wont screw on) With the original T20's you had to cut the torch bezel back to the threads - same thread as the Ranger lens. The T38's were an 'improved' T20 but a lot of the threads have been tight meaning they need easing out a bit to take the Ranger lens.... a right PITA. Best of the lot is the TR38 as per my first 2 pics above... just a case of unscrewing the bezel/lens and screwing on the Ranger lens. I found that the moving rear lens of the Ranger would change modes when it contacted the face of my 3 mode pill so I cut the brass pill back to the torch body.... this may not happen with the single mode pill. The added advantage is that I can now get a sharp focus of the LED die's grid form and the lens, being that bit closer, should pick up more of the IR from the LED's own 45degree lens - rather than have it bouncing around and causing stray light or a halo out the front (which w'be more likely to reflect back off your barrel/moderator). The other advantage of the TR torches is that the component parts are interchangeable across the range. No need to buy a different body for a different sized head/lens or pill. Skany/Ludicrous Lumens for the TR38's - with your UKV discount. Cheers Fizz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sako 243 Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 Yes -no Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.243ackley Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 With the original T20's you had to cut the torch bezel back to the threads - same thread as the Ranger lens. The T38's were an 'improved' T20 but a lot of the threads have been tight meaning they need easing out a bit to take the Ranger lens.... a right PITA. Best of the lot is the TR38 as per my first 2 pics above... just a case of unscrewing the bezel/lens and screwing on the Ranger lens. I found that the moving rear lens of the Ranger would change modes when it contacted the face of my 3 mode pill so I cut the brass pill back to the torch body.... this may not happen with the single mode pill. The added advantage is that I can now get a sharp focus of the LED die's grid form and the lens, being that bit closer, should pick up more of the IR from the LED's own 45degree lens - rather than have it bouncing around and causing stray light or a halo out the front (which w'be more likely to reflect back off your barrel/moderator). The other advantage of the TR torches is that the component parts are interchangeable across the range. No need to buy a different body for a different sized head/lens or pill. Skany/Ludicrous Lumens for the TR38's - with your UKV discount. Cheers Fizz i managed to get the threads machined out but as you predicted it turns itself off when screwed in to go to flood and touches to brass on the led bezel, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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