Tikka T3 bolt shroud- worth replacing

[ejg223]

My 308 T3X CTR with the new metal shroud shoots like this (5.7mm) with factory ammo in an E-Tac3 stock off the hood of a car. Not sure if it would tighten up with a plastic shroud.

 

 

edi

[DW58]

All three of our Tikka T3s (.223/.308/.300WSM) have replacement Vert*brae shrouds and all three shoot like a dream - well my .308's barrel is on its way out but that's got nothing to do with the shroud. Sorry, but I don't wear them having an effect on accuracy - well certainly the high quality ones don't - can't speak for the cheapos from Fleabay..

[MrCetrizine]

I don't know if other T3s differ to mine but my shroud in no way touches the working parts of the bolt.

I can't see how it has any effect on accuracy or anything else.

Much like the myth of putting a postage stamp on one helicopter rotor blade would make it crash.

[snakeman]

My 308 T3X CTR with the new metal shroud shoots like this (5.7mm) with factory ammo in an E-Tac3 stock off the hood of a car. Not sure if it would tighten up with a plastic shroud.

 

 

edi

 

 

So, in effect, how have the wizards at Sako managed to maintain and achieve the above accuracy by replacing a plastic shroud with a 'metal' shroud? ..Isn't the new shroud on the T3x aluminium, rather than steel? ...Given the different weights of the after-market shroud but effect accuracy, that much? ..Really? ..

 

If that is the case, could someone please in practical and layman's terms explain why the after-market steel bolt handles/knobs would, or would not also have an adverse effect on accuracy?

 

ATB

[ejg223]

I for one think the barrel is the most important bit on a rifle, then stock and stock fit/bedding, thirdly only the action. I have the same accuracy from Rem/Tikka/Mauser and an old Sako action. I don't notice any difference in group sizes with custom barrels. New for me is this CTR that shoots as well as my custom barrels up to now at least. Not sure what bolt handles can do in accuracy issues, mine are all fairly lightweight with carbon bolt knobs or original like the CTR.

edi

[baldie]

Some of you must be blind. The shroud is held in place by the working parts OF the bolt's firing pin.

 

I'm not going to tell you why. The weight has nothing to do with it. Its this sort of rifle problem that sorts the real gunsmiths from the muppets.

 

Different models from different places have a VERY real effect on accuracy. I dislike being called a Liar DW58. If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes, I wouldn't put it in print.

[Chris-NZ]

Interested to see any "before and after" targets on that Dave

[MrCetrizine]

I've rechecked mine and the rear of the firing pin with the sear doesn't touch the shroud. It's a close fit but there's no contact. Maybe some aftermarket ones are badly made and do contact the moving parts but my original doesn't.

[DW58]

All three of our Tikka T3s (.223/.308/.300WSM) have replacement Vert*brae shrouds and all three shoot like a dream - well my .308's barrel is on its way out but that's got nothing to do with the shroud. Sorry, but I don't wear them having an effect on accuracy - well certainly the high quality ones don't - can't speak for the cheapos from Fleabay..

 

Different models from different places have a VERY real effect on accuracy. I dislike being called a Liar DW58. If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes, I wouldn't put it in print.

I beg your pardon - my intention was merely to report my own findings.

[ejg223]

I also have a different shroud that really does interfere with the mechanics. Also shoots nice...maybe it is just the stock..

 

T3 custom with 3 groove Lilja Barrel in 308. Hornady factory ammo.

 

 

 

 

 

edi

[ATB]

I can't comment if aftermarket shrouds of some types interfere with the firing pin, but the ones I have are exact copies of the stock ones just made out off steel. Snug fit and no need for springs

 

Steel left and right, 2 in the middle are stock plastic.

[baldie]

Thats a very nice shroud Edi. I do like that style of safety.

 

Ok, we have all had a good look at our shrouds now.

 

No one has yet spotted the important bit. nothing to do with the cocking piece, or the tolerances there.

 

Have a look at the small bit of steel on the back of the pin, that rotates with the pin.

 

Come on...where does it fit, and what could go wrong ?

[gunner]

Big Al,

 

The one which the Richard Utting used came with a spring, which he said stopped it wobbling however he also said it increased the trigger pull. This is why I thought it played some roll, eg increasing lock time, or centering the bolt!

 

Thanks

 

Austin

Your right i bought one and it didn't rattle with the spring in but the trigger was noticeable heavier so took out and it rattles slightly , but im not a nite shooter really so no issues .........

[Andrew]

Thats a very nice shroud Edi. I do like that style of safety.

 

Ok, we have all had a good look at our shrouds now.

 

No one has yet spotted the important bit. nothing to do with the cocking piece, or the tolerances there.

 

Have a look at the small bit of steel on the back of the pin, that rotates with the pin.

 

Come on...where does it fit, and what could go wrong ?

And moreover, who breaks their shroud? I have a small arm load of Tikkas and use them hard. Haven't broken a shroud yet. I have a new CTR T3x and see the warning about the spring. I won't be taking that off any time soon.~Andrew

[Catch-22]

I too replaced the shroud on my old well worn M595. It is a nicely made bit of kit and keeps everything nice and tight.

One thing to note is the comment in Richards video is the fact the spring needs to be cut down to suit your rifles tolerances. This will keep things nice and tight but not so tight that it impedes trigger pull or the cocking piece.

Lumley arms, the manufacturers, state the same thing and actually recommend that you do NOT install the shroud without first trimming the spring for the very reasons mentioned above.

 

The below is taken from their eBay description for their shroud:

 

"Please note: We have designed the shroud deliberately with a small amount of (necessary) tolerance where the cocking piece of the firing pin locks into the mating recess of the shroud. This is essential for proper functioning with all T3 rifles as steel doesn't have the same flex that the factory plastic shroud has and there are variations in this dimension between different rifles. To eliminate any annoying rattling which this tolerance may cause, a small coil spring is included to take up the slack. This spring needs to be cut to size to suit your rifle when fitting. Generally cutting in half and installing the spring will yield the best results. Please contact us if you have any concerns or questions - the install is easy and the item includes instructions. We don't advise installing the spring at its full length as it can cause a heavier bolt lift."

 

http://m.ebay.com/itm/271308654061?_mwBanner=1

[ejg223]

And moreover, who breaks their shroud? I have a small arm load of Tikkas and use them hard. Haven't broken a shroud yet. I have a new CTR T3x and see the warning about the spring. I won't be taking that off any time soon.~Andrew

 

Andrew, I have seen many broken/cracked shrouds. Not so many recently. My guess is that the material or process changed. Injection moulded plastics vary in quality. Even say Nylon which is used in many technical parts can vary between ultra brittle and very tough depending on the moisture content...never mind process problems. The company I worked with for 20 years manufactured about 12 billion technical plastic parts per year. If the process parameters were not right with some parts they could be cracked already right of the machine or a day later or a year later. Just look a SSG 69 makrolon mags. Crack up after a few years. Process parameters often border on the acceptable quality level. Parameters that are good for the part are mostly slower and costs go up.

 

edi

[Andrew]

I'm not saying that a metal shroud wouldn't be nice, but I use mine hard in temps between -20F and +110F and I've not lost one on the seven Tikkas at the house. I may be speaking too soon but so far, so good.~Andrew

 

(I will keep a close eye on them from now on though)

[chaz]

 

You only replace a shroud for looks or if the original breaks IMHO.

 

Says it all, again, in another's opinion....

Mine has the original plastic shroud, with no problem in over 3 years.

Changing the original undamaged plastic shroud, is about as useful, as a young driver putting "go faster" stripes on a his Citroen Saxo.

[Catch-22]

Says it all, again, in another's opinion....

Mine has the original plastic shroud, with no problem in over 3 years.

Changing the original undamaged plastic shroud, is about as useful, as a young driver putting "go faster" stripes on a his Citroen Saxo.

Ha ha - most amusing!

[ejg223]

 

Says it all, again, in another's opinion....

Mine has the original plastic shroud, with no problem in over 3 years.

Changing the original undamaged plastic shroud, is about as useful, as a young driver putting "go faster" stripes on a his Citroen Saxo.

 

Yes and no, if there is a direct line of gas escape through the bolt and a metal shroud could give a bit more security???

The shrouds I saw were in one piece but had an internally crack. So many might not be visible but are faulty.

There must also be a reason why Tikka changed the design to metal.

edi

[Scotch_egg]

I had one of the first T3's when they were introduced around 2005. The shroud was brittle and cracked. It cost me £35 for a factory replacement, that I was loathed to pay for part that unless something goes wrong sees no hard work. At the time there were no aftermarket alternatives. I bought an alloy piece for my current T3 and it rattles like a bee in a biscuit tin. I have kept the plastic unit in place. I am sure it is of a different construction to my previous T3.

 

I also prefer the factory "varmint" plastic bolt extension.

 

The only thing that is missing from a tikka action at the ability to feed from a double stack mag.

[ejg223]

The only thing that is missing from a tikka action at the ability to feed from a double stack mag.

 

CTR

[Scotch_egg]

I am pretty sure it still feeds centrally. I want a true double stack mag that feeds from both sides and you can load easily. I wasn't keen on the TRG magazines when I owned from. My current T3 is fed by the 10 shot double stack AICS alternative alpha mag.

[ejg223]

I found double stack (feed) to be less reliable than central feed. Central is much easier to get adjusted. I also have a T3 with aics mags, also central feed. I am happy with both versions.

edi

[DW58]

I'm very happy with AICS in both my .308 and .300 WSM T3s, both of which are in after market chassis systems (KRG X-Ray & GRS Bolthorn) and are fed from Accurate-Mag AICS magazines which allow extended length hand-loads. I really can't fault Accurate-Mag products which I purchased direct from RPA.

 

Accurate-Mag AICS magazines

• .308 10rd.
• .300 WSM 3d (easily holds/feeds 4 rounds).