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The machine is made of stainless steel.

It is very simple to operate and performs very well.

The disc plates holding the cases are interchangeable for the different calibers and are replaced by removing couple of thumb screws on top.

The annealing time could be set simply by turning a potentiometer and varies between 2 and 16 seconds, depending on your certain requirements.

During the process, the case is being moved in front of the flame and lands on a base, which spins it to an 80 RPM, ensuring even and fast heating of the neck.

 

Price is £180 including FREE delivery to UK and Europe.

I only accept PayPal payments as it is the safest method for both sides.

It takes me approximately 10 working days to complete an order from the moment of payment.

I use a courier service, which takes 3-5 working days for delivery and the package is trackable online.

 

The machine comes with one disc and any additional discs you may require for different calibers cost £15 each.

The reloading trays on the pictures are also orderable at £15 each.

If you are interested, please send me a PM and specify the calibers you need it for !!!

 

 

post-14690-0-77914600-1469038615_thumb.jpgpost-14690-0-19246500-1469038740_thumb.jpg

post-14690-0-60195700-1469038744_thumb.jpgpost-14690-0-00602900-1469038775_thumb.jpg

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also very interested,

 

cash waiting,

 

would be up for 20 tac (223) case and 6mm br (243) case disc,

 

would also like to know where you are based

 

thanks

 

Bob.

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Hi, is there any video footage of the unit in action? Looks impressive!

This is mine, not great quality video but you can see how it works (very nicely!), https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/103575967/FBUK/High%20Res.mp4

 

Lubo in in Bulgaria, mine took about 10 days from order to delivery, fully tracked all the way, excellent service :D

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I have had one of these for several months now, and can anneal cases both reliably and quickly (about 8 x 308 cases per minute; I also have a 223 disc). It is a very solid unit due to the use of thick stainless steel sheet. I have already annealed over a 1000 cases with it and still have over half the gas cylinder remaining.

 

I use a GoSystems Fine Flame Power Torch with 400ml Rothenberger propane cylinders (no need to use MAPP), my wife shoots FTR too and was happy to sacrifice a couple of baking trays to let the cases fall down onto. You do need a fine flame torch, and not a general purpose or swirl flame torch.

 

http://www.go-system.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/258/category/22/

 

 

Use a couple of spare cases to get the timing sorted each time; the case needs to move out of the flame just before the flame changes colour to orange. You can initially use 750F Tempilaq on the inside of a few necks if necessary, just to check. This ensures that the neck gets to 750F to anneal it, but the area just below the shoulder does not get above 450F. I now anneal my Lapua 308 Palma cases every time, because it is so easy.

 

I bought mine from Lubo, and it arrived (from the EU, Bulgaria if I remember correctly) in the timescale that he promised, and he kept me informed every step of the way. Very nice guy to deal with and if I lost mine, I would buy another.

 

If you have any questions about using it, or need any more info about owning/using one, just send me a PM.

 

Paul

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Hmmmm tempting indeed

 

 

Steve

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Could you send me your details for the sum of £200.

 

one machine and 2 discs,223and 6mmbr,(243)

 

thank you

 

Bob.

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What temp tempilaq are you using for timings as although the case is out of the flame it sits in the next station for a while and surely the annealing process continues for a short time? Would it not be better to have the torch annealing the case before the discharge station rather than the one before that? I just wondered if you were allowing for this by using 700 degree rather than 750 degree tempilaq?

Are you using the tempilaq on the inside of the case mouth?

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I use 750F Tempilaq on the inside of the case. It has to on the inside so that it is subjected to the temperasture of the brass, rather than the flame. Only whilst directly in the flame will the temperature be high enough to continue the annealing process.

 

If you want to see this for yourself, you can increase the timing a little so that you start to see some material reduction of the brass (zinc), as the flame will change colour from blue to orange. Even as the case starts to move away from the centre of the flame, before it has fully exited, the orange flame will dissipate and so the annealing will stop. If you really wanted to see how far the 450F 'line' goes down the case you can use some 450F Temilaq all the way down the the case below the neck (or one of their crayons are fine for the outside - I have a spare if you need it). However, having learnt the process, I no longer feel the 450F indicator is necessary. If you anneal without getting an orange flame (a minimal hint of orange when rotating out will still be ok), and the tempilaq 750f melts, you are spot on.

 

If you need further proof of the temperature reduction out of the flame, put some water droplets on a non-cumbustable surface and take the flame closer and closer to them, you will get a good feeling for how the temperature gradient rises. You will be surprised how close you can get to the flame without boiling off the water.

 

If your timing is set correctly and you do not see the flame change colour, it is not possible to over-anneal the case using this method. The standard method of annealing brass (outside of reloading) is to subject the brass to 450F for 15 mins. Obviously, this will not work for us as the thermal conductivity would then soak the whole of the case and thus soften all of it. Our aim as reloaders is to anneal just the neck/shoulder without softening or weaking the case below the shoulder. This is achieved by using a higher temperature for a much shorter period of time.

 

Once directly out of the flame, the temperature reduces rapidly below 450F, and annealing stops very quickly. Although don't be tempted to handle it with your fingers!

 

On Lubo's machine, I have the torch set on the left side and the case rotates towards it, however, for all the above reasons this is not an issue. BUT, make sure you use a torch with a fine flame and not a general prupose swirl one, it needs to have a defined fine blue point. The one I recommended earlier in this thread is perfect for the task.

 

Hopefully this all makes sense.

 

Paul

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On Lubo's machine, I have the torch set on the left side and the case rotates towards it, however, for all the above reasons this is not an issue. BUT, make sure you use a torch with a fine flame and not a general prupose swirl one, it needs to have a defined fine blue point. The one I recommended earlier in is perfect for the task.

Any chance you could post a photo of your torch set up please?

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There are many things I am regularly accused of - being a great photographer is not one of them!

 

However, you can hopefully get the idea of the torch set up I use:

 

IMG_1302.jpg

 

IMG_1301.jpg

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thank you,

 

this is the very same torch I have,

 

now we need a video of the prep done before you crack n,

 

where is the best place to get the tempilaq

 

bon

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oops

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Hi Bob

 

You can get Tempilaq from Mark Ellis - aka Spud1967 Reloading (amongst other places, but I would rather support one of our community):

 

http://www.1967spud.com/shop/tempilaq/tempilaq/

 

I recommmend getting the 750F Tempilaq

 

One bottle will last you a very, very long time.

 

Once I have set up my annealer using a few spare cases to get the timing correct; starting with a little orange flame generation then backing off the timing so that the case moves before the orange flame starts (as described above). then I will put one case through with tempilaq on the inside of the neck to ensure it gets up to temperature. So...I only use tempilaq on 1 case per annealing session.

 

I find it easier to tempilaq a few cases ahead of time and store them with the annealer, as it takes a while to dry and I want to 'get on with it' once I get the annealer out.

 

Paul

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Hi Bob

 

You can get Tempilaq from Mark Ellis - aka Spud1967 Reloading (amongst other places, but I would rather support one of our community):

 

http://www.1967spud.com/shop/tempilaq/tempilaq/

 

I recommmend getting the 750F Tempilaq

 

One bottle will last you a very, very long time.

 

Once I have set up my annealer using a few spare cases to get the timing correct; starting with a little orange flame generation then backing off the timing so that the case moves before the orange flame starts (as described above). then I will put one case through with tempilaq on the inside of the neck to ensure it gets up to temperature. So...I only use tempilaq on 1 case per annealing session.

 

I find it easier to tempilaq a few cases ahead of time and store them with the annealer, as it takes a while to dry and I want to 'get on with it' once I get the annealer out.

 

Paul

cheers Paul

 

very kind, I'll drop mark a PM when I am ready, and yet again thank you for your help and advice,

 

bob

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Ludo

 

funds sent @ 0900 this morning

 

thank you

 

bob.

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Many thanks to Binnzy for his various posts on this topic, most helpful.

 

Time for the DW loading bench to get a new gizmo.

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Many thanks to Binnzy for his various posts on this topic, most helpful.

 

Time for the DW loading bench to get a new gizmo.

get one ordered. I cant wait to set mine up. :)

 

bob.

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Add me to the order list - payment sent.

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Looks like I need to clear a space on the bench....siiiiiiiiiiiigh.

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thanks so much

 

it should be here today.

 

thank you RC

 

bob.

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