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Half click a pm11


Dustyman

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Does any one know how I can move the point of aim on a pm11 by half a click . My groups fall either left or right of centre at 100 when using the turrets to adjust see groups on 2 and 6 . Five and four shot groups . Is there an easy way to do it or should I be consulting a manual ? The latter not being a normal thing for a bloke I have not started to search yet . Thanks

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Just wait for the wind to blow the other way!

 

You can be no more than 5mm away, surely thats good enough for government work (which the pm2 was designed for)..

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Ok ta I'll try swapping the weekend . Cheers

 

Wind didn't want to blow today :-( Unfort not govt work but would have preferred to be able to start On centre before moving out to distance as I would always be having to compensate otherwise bit of a bugger since it's decided to shoot well today , cheers for looking

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The clicks will always be what they are, so either aim off, buy an Ivy adjustable base (not recommended for many reasons) or buy a scope with the clicks you want eg S&B 12-50x56 has .025 milrad (0.25cm) clicks or March Fx 5-40x 56 has .05 milrad (0.5cm) clicks which is what you asked for in a FFP scope.

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I'm happy with the clicks on the Schmidt , I never expected any different ,I just wondered if there was a way to centre it but seems not , plus I don't want to migrate my March from my 6.5 just to be able to centre the poa as I'm happier with the pm on my 243

I'll try remounting the scope the weekend and hopefully that may give me some movement . If not as you say I'll just have to aim off , Cheers for feedback

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I'm happy with the clicks on the Schmidt , I never expected any different ,I just wondered if there was a way to centre it but seems not , plus I don't want to migrate my March from my 6.5 just to be able to centre the poa as I'm happier with the pm on my 243

I'll try remounting the scope the weekend and hopefully that may give me some movement . If not as you say I'll just have to aim off , Cheers for feedback

You've spent all that money on a top quality scope and you end up having to remember to aim off every time you shoot, that can't be right surly??

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Dusty,I understand you'd prefer to be spot on at 100,but looks like that is not going to happen-unless the pot luck off/on scope 'trick' works-it might.

As per onehole,why not zero-at least for horizontal-at 200-you would be quite unlucky to have the same 'problem' twice-and 200 is a better distance anyhow,as very small 100 y differences will be clearer at 200.

Then you just need to hold off a tad-bullet width?-at 100....I'd be asking if I need to shoot at 100y at all,and if so how often,and do I need that precision (actually,you' may get the precision just the same-somewhat dependent on your rifle's reticule options-and/or just what the target is.A target rifle might eg have a nice dot-use the edge-though they have 1/8 moa adjust anyhow!-the PM11 won't of course have either.Great scope,so does it matter-I can't remember the last time I fired a larger than 224 cf at 100y,other than to check group size.Wind will move shots anyhow,at least a 1/4 moa at 100y.How many windless days do we get?

It's just a case of deciding actually what you really need-if the wind/lack of perfect refitting scope won't oblige,and you really can't 'hold off' for some deep psychological reason (cheaper to fix that than buying a March!).The rifle,scope and you are clearly pretty precise-I'd just live with it at 100y.Certainly not change load/scope etc! (and I'm a 1/8 moa NF fan). Good luck/shooting as is.

gbal

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Its an inherent fault with 1/4" clicks with precision rifles. The accuracy that is now achieved goes way beyond anything of yesteryear, though for most applications 1/4" is plenty good enough. The solution is to go for a scope that will give you the kind of adjustment you demand. The rest has been said.

 

If you are a right hand shooter then 9 o'clock is the better side to 3, as most shooters tend to go right with a poor shot. At 200m you might find its sorted itself; and then much further out you can never really know because the outside influences are greater than any click.

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Its an inherent fault with 1/4" clicks with precision rifles. The accuracy that is now achieved goes way beyond anything of yesteryear, though for most applications 1/4" is plenty good enough. The solution is to go for a scope that will give you the kind of adjustment you demand. The rest has been said.

 

If you are a right hand shooter then 9 o'clock is the better side to 3, as most shooters tend to go right with a poor shot. At 200m you might find its sorted itself; and then much further out you can never really know because the outside influences are greater than any click.

 

 

I have a suspicion that his PMII is 0.1MRAD clicks which is even bigger than 0.25MOA, this is one of the reasons I have just sold my PMII.

 

I have faced this problem several times with NV scopes which can have even larger click values but always managed to get around them by fiddling with the scope mounts.

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Hmmm quite an interesting little glimpse into what "precision" was/is becoming,and the differences

between disciplines as it is reflected in the scopes favoured- wrt magnification and click adjustments.

 

If the 5-25 pm11 is 1/10 mil,(.1) that would be in clumsy speak .36 inch

 

while the well established 36x,and up to 42x, 1/8 moa target scopes are .125 inch

 

ds post 811 is interesting now,as the newer S&B etc scopes come on line:

 

March 5-40 .05mil .18 inch

S&B 12-50 .025 mil .09

 

gbal

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if your rifling /spin drift is to the right go with one click left it will be lost in spin drift any way as you push the range.

Nice one,ts-gyroscopic drift at 300y could be .4",and Coriolis acceleration .13-if shooting west (as well as .23 vertical)so there's a good 1/2 inch between them (of course a very good ballistic hurdy gurdy will have compensated,won't it?)

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Take on board the comments about compensating And if there is a the need to shoot that accurately at 100 but I merely would prefer to start knowing that I'm effectively on centre to start with . I zero at 100 because thats a range I can set the target safely at for regulat shots knowing what and who is about once I've settled down to shoot on my main permission. I can shoot out much further to maybe a 1000 but wouldn't want to be lay down on my own for a long time without a spotter because we have a number of footpaths around the shoot so the 100 is for safety reasons .

Moving out to 200 or beyond would that not merely move the poi out accordingly? , I know it's being a bit a£&L for the amount I want to move but to be honest the original post was actually to see if I could set the scope to centre by adjusting something . I was wondering if there was a way to set the initial ' start 'of the clicks ? If we think back to some older scopes they didn't click then clicks became more of the norm . I was hoping there was a way to adjust manually .

Scope is .1mil so moves 1cm at 100 hence to move from one side of centre to tother with one click . Trouble is I seem to have become very quickly in this post someone who see to want to punch paper more than use the rifle for stalking or vermin . That's not the case , I'm fully aware there's no vbull tattooed on the game I kill and for real life we are trying to shoot under 400 yds so inch/100 still puts you in the engine room plus some , when you read the wind and slope right. I just wanted to start on centre cus I've spent the time , effort and money to build a rig Ive wanted and am happy with . It can shoot ,no doubt about that and I'll always be the limiting factor but just fancied the group on centre :-) , petty I know but hey ho , it's my group :-)

At the same time , I'm glad I asked as its reminded me to think why I want the rifle and what I want from it

Cheers to all much , much appreciate all the posts , thanks I

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If you put a vertical line on your target, with a plumb line, and then wind the scope up 8 or 10 inches does it cross the line or stay the wrong side? Just asking because barrel, action, mount blocks, mounts don't always stay in line, aren't truly true?? Many mount blocks aren't straight or aligned with the barrel so its never going to be perfect. Many barrels aren't screwed into the actions straight.

 

My recent Annie .17HMR, plus custom rail, plus Leupold mounts, plus new plus scope, gave a perfect left and right with only elevation to dial correct for perfect zero. Not one windage click at all. This is unbelievable and probably never going to happen again. I refuse to take this combination off ever!!

 

In practice its shooting the combination and taking notes to build up a picture of what is true by what actually happened. We don't shoot lasers. Get to know your rifle, be happy.

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Take the test!

Print target on a4 sheet, shoot once at each target, post results, the tell us again how concerned you are at being <5mm away from your point of aim.

 

Keep it real, go kill some sh!t!

 

19A9CD30-AE03-4F7D-980D-BC97FBB67F55_zps

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LAst comments where I was trying to go with my last post with fewer words . Let you know after the weekend ( and Fridays stalking ) ta :-)

Any one know a good tattooist. , need some crosses putting on the side of some troublesome fallow ? :-)

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LAst comments where I was trying to go with my last post with fewer words . Let you know after the weekend ( and Fridays stalking ) ta :-)

Any one know a good tattooist. , need some crosses putting on the side of some troublesome fallow ? :-)

Dusty,Im sure we all empathise in 'theory' but for stalking,there are rather more likely imperfection factors......but not enough to cause concern either.

You could get the tattoos done just off centre,same as your scope.... :-)

 

Good stalking

 

g

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