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Hi all I just wanted to let you guy know about the recent disappointment I had regarding a swift percision stubby .22lr sound moderator I bought.

The first thing is it says its user servaceable but you cant take it apart without damaging it as there are no tools supplied with it and its sealed up tighter than a nuns .......

After a long battle I managed to get the threaded cap off and found the baffles can't be removed as pushing them out past the internal thread will strip the thread .

 

Also the aluminum washer baffles are so soft if you try to push them out you will damage them.

 

All in all I must say I'm very disappointed so I just thought I'd give you guys a heads up

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Hi all I just wanted to let you guy know about the recent disappointment I had regarding a swift percision stubby .22lr sound moderator I bought.

The first thing is it says its user servaceable but you cant take it apart without damaging it as there are no tools supplied with it and its sealed up tighter than a nuns .......

After a long battle I managed to get the threaded cap off and found the baffles can't be removed as pushing them out past the internal thread will strip the thread .

 

Also the aluminum washer baffles are so soft if you try to push them out you will damage them.

 

All in all I must say I'm very disappointed so I just thought I'd give you guys a heads up

as these are produced by a personal friend of mine I will take up your comments with him and respond with the findings, sorry to hear you were dissapointed with the silencer as I'm sure he will be.

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as these are produced by a personal friend of mine I will take up your comments with him and respond with the findings, sorry to hear you were dissapointed with the silencer as I'm sure he will be.

It just seems like it hasnt been thought through the questions i asked myself were if its supposed to be strippable why is there no tools to do it ? Why is there nothing machined into the cap so I can take it apart and why are the baffles made from very soft aluminum why once I removed the cap can't I actually get the baffles out with out destroying the internal threads ?

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The swift mods ive seen has a tool with them. Did you get it from new

Yes bought it new but had no tool

Don't take .22lr mods apart, ultrasonic them.

From what research I have done ultra sonic cleaners damage aluminum mods

Ive put 1000s of rounds through mine, never cleaned mine, just buy another if I thought it wasnt any good anymore.

That's the reason I bought one that was user servicable so I can keep it clean and remove any unburnt powder rattaling around inside if I wanted a mod that was sealed then I would have bought one and i don't believe just shooting them without cleaning them is a good idea as most many factors say they need periodic cleaning

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It just seems like it hasnt been thought through the questions i asked myself were if its supposed to be strippable why is there no tools to do it ? Why is there nothing machined into the cap so I can take it apart and why are the baffles made from very soft aluminum why once I removed the cap can't I actually get the baffles out with out destroying the internal threads ?

Okay, my reckoning is that the instructions are not all that clear, firstly it is strip-able, HOWEVER it is not recommended that you strip it. Secondly the end cap has a 45 size TORX drive size cut into it, this makes removing the end cap very easy. Thirdly the things you call baffles are actually spacers, the baffles are further back, and the whole assembly went in thorough the front so it WILL come out without damaging anything, the tightness may be caused by fouling build-up. The recommended method of cleaning is as mentioned Ultrasonic or boiling in a pan and then drying out thoroughly, I was told that if you had any problems you were more than welcome to call Richard direct to ask for guidance and still can (pardon the pun!).

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I had the stubby swifts on my .22 and .17hmr. They can't be taken apart, easily anyway. Richard was very helpfull and recommended boiling them in bicarbonate of soda, which worked for me - I also put them in a sonice bath before. Both good mods, but you get what you pay for though. I treated myself to upgrading them to the Swift Nightingales (they can easily be taken apart and are supplied with tools to do so). Chalk and cheese...! Brilliant mods. Shot them alongside SAKs, which seem to have become the de facto standard, and they're definitely quieter.

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Ultrasonic cleaners can't damage anything except very delicate electronic components.

I have had some pitting on a sak mod caused by ultrasonic cleaning! May have been impurities in the ally but the ultrasonic certainly made a mess under the anodising.

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It's highly unlikely that damage was caused by the ultrasonic. It's more likely that it simply exposed damage that was already there. Vibrating water can't hurt metal it just loosens stuff that's stuck on it. If someone painted/coated over impurities and an ultrasonic pulls the coating off above it, that's not damage, just the kind of thorough cleaning that should have been done before coating.

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I had the stubby swifts on my .22 and .17hmr. They can't be taken apart, easily anyway. Richard was very helpfull and recommended boiling them in bicarbonate of soda, which worked for me - I also put them in a sonice bath before. Both good mods, but you get what you pay for though. I treated myself to upgrading them to the Swift Nightingales (they can easily be taken apart and are supplied with tools to do so). Chalk and cheese...! Brilliant mods. Shot them alongside SAKs, which seem to have become the de facto standard, and they're definitely quieter.

+1 I have a Swift mod, a SAK mod and a Swift Nightingale. The Nightingale was around £125. And was a fair bit quieter than the basic swift and the SAK. I've used the tools to strip it once, cleaned it and put together. All very easy, and I highly recommend the Swift Nightingale. Top job!

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Okay, my reckoning is that the instructions are not all that clear, firstly it is strip-able, HOWEVER it is not recommended that you strip it. Secondly the end cap has a 45 size TORX drive size cut into it, this makes removing the end cap very easy. Thirdly the things you call baffles are actually spacers, the baffles are further back, and the whole assembly went in thorough the front so it WILL come out without damaging anything, the tightness may be caused by fouling build-up. The recommended method of cleaning is as mentioned Ultrasonic or boiling in a pan and then drying out thoroughly, I was told that if you had any problems you were more than welcome to call Richard direct to ask for guidance and still can (pardon the pun!).

 

The instructions arnt that clear because nowhere does it say in the instructions how to strip it! it says it can be striped by the user and the moderator hasn't been used so fouling isn't causing it to be hard to remove the aluminum spacer will not move past the internal thread without wearing it down as I have already said and the aluminium disks are very soft
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