.223 zero range?

[Lewis2012]

I zerod my browning A-bolt .223 around an inch high at 100 yards does this sound about right to you?

I got told that if i zero it 1inch high it would be pritty much flat out to 200 yards is this right?

Im using privi partizan 55gr SP

Or would you all recommend a 100 yard zero?

Thanks all

Lewis

[Jagged 77]

Personally I've never been one for the 1" high at 100 - I prefer to zero at 100 and know my drops. I guess when lampung this could be a benefit but the range of my lamp is not great so I limit myself to inside 150 yards or therabouts.

 

I have exactly the same rifle btw in .223, it has accounted for its fair share over the years despite my preference for the heavy barrelled varmint / tactical style - the A-bolt is a good little rifle.

[Lewis2012]

Personally I've never been one for the 1" high at 100 - I prefer to zero at 100 and know my drops. I guess when lampung this could be a benefit but the range of my lamp is not great so I limit myself to inside 150 yards or therabouts.

I have exactly the same rifle btw in .223, it has accounted for its fair share over the years despite my preference for the heavy barrelled varmint / tactical style - the A-bolt is a good little rifle.

Imquite new to centrefire so I think I'm going to have to set targets at different ranges and try and work out the bullet drops then. Yes the A-bolt is a real good rifle, nice and light too!

I did originally look at the CZ527 laminate varmint but I'm more than happy with the browning

[Laurie]

An inch high at 100 isn't far wrong. PPU lists its 55gn SP at 990 m/s = 3,248 fps MV. Assuming it reaches that velocity in your rifle and also assuming the BC of thye 55gn PPU isn't too different from that of the 55gn Sierra SBT, here's what Sierra Infinity says:

 

1-inch high at 100 corresponds to a zero distance of 180yd. At 100 it's an inch high, at 150 three-quarters inch high, on at 180 and three-quarters inch low at 200 yards. After 200 the bullet drops rapidly.

 

Using the Infinity Maximum Point Blank Range calculator shows the ideal zero distance for the ballistic combination allied to a 3-inch dia. 'kill-zone' size is 203 yards for an MPBR range of 230 yards. (That is the bullet stays within 1.5-inches elevation of the scope sight-line, high up to the zero distance and hits the maximum allowed drop of 1.5" at the MPBR = 230 yards.

 

To achieve that theoretical 'ideal', you'd sight-in 1.4-inches high at 100 yards. In practice, I doubt if you'd see much difference between a one-inch high sight-in and the 'ideal' 1.4 inches in the field.

[Laurie]

Imquite new to centrefire so I think I'm going to have to set targets at different ranges and try and work out the bullet drops then. Yes the A-bolt is a real good rifle, nice and light too!

I did originally look at the CZ527 laminate varmint but I'm more than happy with the browning

 

 

If you sight-in at 100 yards, here are the predicted drops for the 55gn Sierra at your factory quoted MV:

 

110: - 0.06

 

120: - 0.16

 

130: - 0.31

 

140: - 0.5

 

150: - 0.75

 

160: - 1.04

 

170: - 1.38

 

180: - 1.78

 

190: - 2.22

 

200: - 2.73

 

210: - 3.29

 

220: - 3.91

 

230: - 4.59

 

240: - 5.33

 

So with a good 100 yard zero, you'll alway be within an inch of aim up to around 160 yards, which I'd reckon (not being a field shooter myself) is as far as many pest shooters go with the 223, facftory ammo, and small targets such as rabbits, crows, foxes.

 

Any ballistic drop calculations assume perfetct groups of course - if the ammo groups into an inch, some shots would reduce the calcualted drop by half that amount while others might increase it by the same half-inch.

[gbal]

Personally I've never been one for the 1" high at 100 - I prefer to zero at 100 and know my drops. I guess when lampung this could be a benefit but the range of my lamp is not great so I limit myself to inside 150 yards or therabouts.

I have exactly the same rifle btw in .223, it has accounted for its fair share over the years despite my preference for the heavy barrelled varmint / tactical style - the A-bolt is a good little rifle.

If you don't exceed 150 yards it hardly matters-as long as you know-drop won't be much at 150,say 3/4 or one inch in practical terms.

I doubt that there would be any effective gain with a varmint weight-it's just dead weight really for max 150 yard shots,and barrel heating will not be an issue!

For that matter,it would be difficult to think of any rifle in an appropriate chambering that would not do pretty much what any other would do on foxes out to 150 yards under field conditions,so you might as well pick one you like,at a sensible price.

 

Gbal

[Lewis2012]

Thank you all for the replys Laurie it was exactly what as looking for thank you so much, so ill re zero it at 100yards

Here's the original zero it grioupd at 1/2inch at 1inch high at 100yds

[onehole]

Zero at 200 yards on a calm day,,,,100 yards is not good enough to assume what will happen further out as trajectory is too flat at 100 for a base point. An accurate 200 yard zero will give huge confidence of hits on bunnies out to 250 ish with minimal hold over or under at 100,,,,,,,,,,,300 is also very doable on holdover with a 200 zero.Regds onehole

[sonic]

If you download this http://www.huntingnut.com/files/pointblank/PointBlankCRBSv18a.zip/ you can see for yourself how changing zero affects point blank range etc.

[onehole]

In addition,,,,,,a 17 hmr ideal zero is 100 yards youre talking 223 ,,,,move on----------?

[pork chop]

In addition,,,,,,a 17 hmr ideal zero is 100 yards youre talking 223 ,,,,move on----------?

agreed,zero at 200 then work on your drops for 300/400 and practice as much as you can

[gaz6br]

I used to do it a inch high at 100 yards for years, it did work when all I was doing was shooting foxes. Now I dial in and shoot long range I do a 100 yard zero then dial in to what ever I want, when I lamp I set the scope for 200 yards. Do a 100 yard zero on a calm day then go straight to 200 yards and measure the exact drop, then set the difference at 100 so you no your spot on rather than guessing an inch is right.

 

Good luck

Gaz

[Swamp Donkey]

I used to do it a inch high at 100 yards for years, it did work when all I was doing was shooting foxes. Now I dial in and shoot long range I do a 100 yard zero then dial in to what ever I want, when I lamp I set the scope for 200 yards. Do a 100 yard zero on a calm day then go straight to 200 yards and measure the exact drop, then set the difference at 100 so you no your spot on rather than guessing an inch is right.

 

Good luck

Gaz

+1

 

I do the same, if I'm lamping and expect longer shots than about 180 with the .243 I'll set scope for 200, gives me a 'point and shoot' on foxes for nigh on 300

 

The .222 I zero at 100, zero the turrets, then normally leave set to 150, unless shooting 400etc

 

Pete

[gbal]

+1

I do the same, if I'm lamping and expect longer shots than about 180 with the .243 I'll set scope for 200, gives me a 'point and shoot' on foxes for nigh on 300

The .222 I zero at 100, zero the turrets, then normally leave set to 150, unless shooting 400etc

Pete

Would a 243 not be about 6 inches low at 300,with a 200 zero?

I suppose you could 'point high'!!

 

Gbal

[kent]

Firstly even after playing with ballistic calculators (which are very helpful) you still need to prove you dope in the field. Secondly any set zero should be crack on not x amount high at y otherwise a small deviation can easy be missed or dismissed in testing and this small deviation is a big difference in your into your other numbers. Just off the top of my head 200 yards as crack on sounds too far in .223 rem and might lead to misses over the top (you do not always get a full broadside boiler room target) I suggest something around 150-170 might make a difference in preventing "over the top misses" at medium range, yet play with it and whatever you choose learn it and stick with it.

Many lack proper facilities to check zero outside of the norm set 100 yds club range, if this is the case I suggest using 100 (but not as a x amount high) for reasons mentioned previously and living with it. OR find facilities for shorter range as the bullet will pass through at shorter range than 100 yds before dropping down through say the 150 yds intersection. When its real windy I have a sheltered 50 yds range and often use this for a quick check- maybe if you cannot set up something perfect and freely available something like this might help you? its a darn sight easier to shoot a one hole group at say 40- 60 yds anyhow.

[gaz6br]

I think it all goes down to how well you no your rifle at a 200 yard zero I have no problem knowing where to put the dot at 50,100,150,200,250 and 300 when I'm out at night.

[gbal]

Everyone is right!

Very few foxes at least are shot beyond 300 yards at night(of course,it can be done)

Almost all rifles that should be used are 'flat' enough,esp to 200y (Hornet needs more care,if you must use it).

So almost any zero from 100 to 200 will do-given you know it,accurate zeroing is always desirable and there is about 4" latitude of tolerance built into the cartridges (actually,the fox!) though very accurate distancing is unlikely at night,anyhow...

 

Set zero at the modal shooting distance,if there is one.Otherwise,zero at 100-200,as you wish)

Check your come ups (however you do these) at (longer) distances,if at all possible,by live firing.

 

Gbal

 

 

.

[tackb]

zero at 100m then drive away or towards the fox until it is exactly 100m away , problem solved?

[happyhunter]

zero at 100m then drive away or towards the fox until it is exactly 100m away , problem solved?

Great minds think alike, I waited bloody ages last night for the vixen to be exactly 100y before I even contemplated squeezing the trigger, was a hour before the dog met the same fate...

[gbal]

zero at 100m then drive away or towards the fox until it is exactly 100m away , problem solved?

An easier,more reliable shot too,brilliant.

 

Now,what 4x4 would you chose-some have suggested the Range Rover,but then others rave about the RR Improved(Toyota Landcruiser) ,and some others say they can't reverse that accurately in the dark,and what filters should you use on the brake lights.

One savvy but keen shooter,asked about an accurate pedometer,with luminous dial,to avoid such problems(he has worked out his stride pattern to exactly 34.77 inches,at normal night temperatures,and has a mini computor in his backpack to convert to metres.

 

The devil is often in the detail.

 

My six year old once asked me how far a fox runs into a wood,when chased.

Obviously enough,just to half way,'cos then it's running out of the wood.

 

So,back to the thread:what happens if the fox moves,while we manoeuvre to what would have been 100m?

 

Gbal

[Offroad Gary]

I have had 223's and still load for one, find it best zeroed at 175y using a 50gn bullet. Good for 250y on fox with no holdover.

[pork chop]

surprising how many different ways we all zero our rifles.200 yrd zero works for me using 223 /204/22br anything over 300 yrd gets dialed in anything under i aim off.seems you need to pick what works for you best then practice thats what its all about and having fun along the way

[onehole]

surprising how many different ways we all zero our rifles.200 yrd zero works for me using 223 /204/22br anything over 300 yrd gets dialed in anything under i aim off.seems you need to pick what works for you best then practice thats what its all about and having fun along the way

This works for me too ,,,, cast in stone zero at 200 and hold over to 300max,,,, if I have time then I will dial a 300 yarder given the limits of light weights in a 223,,,,300 yards is the limit for me for holdover,,,,best trust the ballistics program and field tested dialling after that,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,mind you 300 plus and we are looking for more gun either in bullet weight or calibre for certain!!

[Alycidon]

Personally I zero all my centerfire rifles 10mm high at 100 yards. This puts me on at 150-160 depending on the round. So dont have to think about drops on foxes till 180 or so and even then we are still holding on the fur ( chest shot) if its a snap shot.

 

A

[gunner]

Zero at 200 yards on a calm day,,,,100 yards is not good enough to assume what will happen further out as trajectory is too flat at 100 for a base point. An accurate 200 yard zero will give huge confidence of hits on bunnies out to 250 ish with minimal hold over or under at 100,,,,,,,,,,,300 is also very doable on holdover with a 200 zero.Regds onehole

second this ! i zerod my 223 / 55blitzking @200 , at 100 i knew it was 1-1/5" high ! and depending on temp/humidity it was about 6-7" @300 . 21-22" low @400 and so on !

one of my best shots was a grey squirell @ 329yds - sweeet !